Having some trouble fishing my tube from the dash tray down to the driver's side area you described. Any advice on where to fish this thing down?I don't know how many folks have taken the time to install a boost gauge on their Ranger. Those who have, I'd like some comments from.
I'm seeing max boost at about 22 psi (I have the Ford Performance tune), but typically at lower ambient temperatures—say between 50° to about 75° or so. My boost drops about 2 psi as the RPM approaches redline, which I expect is normal. It also goes down at higher ambients, which is also normal.
I've read that the normal boost range is 17 to 18 pounds, but I didn't install my gauge until after the software upgrade.
By the way, this is the kit I used: (https://cp-e.com/shop/product/ford-ecoboost-2-3l-turbo-maptap/)
As I said before, it is difficult to get the connections made due to the location of the "nipple" on the intake manifold. That part took me about 10 minutes, and about 3 minor cuts! The hard part was fishing the tubing down through the heater ducting. I had to take out the top-of-dash tray, after which it went the first time. I mounted my gauge in the tray.
If you use nylon 1/4" OD tubing, and a "PLASTIC" wire fish tape (available from Home Disappointment), fish the tubing above and to the left the hood release cable as seen from the inside of the cabin. With a little effort, you can then pull the tubing by simply pushing it over the ferrel on the fish tape, and pull from the engine side. Took me about 20 minutes total.
Here are the best photos I can take. Space is at a premium, and without some sort of "snorkel" camera, this is about as good as it gets.
The blue nylon tube is the pressure line.
There are two connections to the intake manifold. The front one (in this case) is the MAP connection. The other is much too big for the "kit".
The third photo is shows the "kit" connections.
From here, you're sort of on your own. That said, it isn't rocket science.
Probably has something to do with all the crap, airbag and such, stuffed back there.Living in Arizona, every time I see y'all using something that covers an air vent (gauges, phone holders, Kleenex dispensers, etc) I think YOU DUMBASS! But then I realize that everywhere else it probably isn't as critical. Still..... I have to wonder. Why don't I see any A-Pillar Gauge Pods on Rangers yet?
HN Customs in Australia is currently making them. They already have them for RH drive Rangers. They'd probably expedite some orders if you ask. You can look them up on fb or instagram and I got a response on fb in less than a day.Living in Arizona, every time I see y'all using something that covers an air vent (gauges, phone holders, Kleenex dispensers, etc) I think YOU DUMBASS! But then I realize that everywhere else it probably isn't as critical. Still..... I have to wonder. Why don't I see any A-Pillar Gauge Pods on Rangers yet?
I can't speak for others, but I didn't want to have something constantly plugged into the OBDII port.Excuse my naivety here, but why not run an electric boost gauge? Essentially the samE installation, but you don't need to run a vacuum tube into the cabin.
I had these (boost and EGT) on my built WRX, and loved them. Never an issue, some nice features, and install way easier..
https://prosportgauges.com/collecti...1-16-premium-amber-white-electric-boost-gauge
Can you explain this any more? What causes needle vibration in some cases, but not others? Where did you install that restrictor?Also.. to get rid of the needle from vibrating on vacuum I had to install an inline boost pressure restrictor. Similar to this one below... its basically a tube with a pin hole inside of it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-new-sou...55X8u7Pha8d4PHTQl1IDm_1G4GKVZXssaAoAcEALw_wcB