Boost Pressure

[Apples]

I don't know how many folks have taken the time to install a boost gauge on their Ranger. Those who have, I'd like some comments from.

I'm seeing max boost at about 22 psi (I have the Ford Performance tune), but typically at lower ambient temperatures—say between 50° to about 75° or so. My boost drops about 2 psi as the RPM approaches redline, which I expect is normal. It also goes down at higher ambients, which is also normal.

I've read that the normal boost range is 17 to 18 pounds, but I didn't install my gauge until after the software upgrade.

By the way, this is the kit I used: (https://cp-e.com/shop/product/ford-ecoboost-2-3l-turbo-maptap/)

As I said before, it is difficult to get the connections made due to the location of the "nipple" on the intake manifold. That part took me about 10 minutes, and about 3 minor cuts! The hard part was fishing the tubing down through the heater ducting. I had to take out the top-of-dash tray, after which it went the first time. I mounted my gauge in the tray.

If you use nylon 1/4" OD tubing, and a "PLASTIC" wire fish tape (available from Home Disappointment), fish the tubing above and to the left the hood release cable as seen from the inside of the cabin. With a little effort, you can then pull the tubing by simply pushing it over the ferrel on the fish tape, and pull from the engine side. Took me about 20 minutes total.

Here are the best photos I can take. Space is at a premium, and without some sort of "snorkel" camera, this is about as good as it gets.

The blue nylon tube is the pressure line.

There are two connections to the intake manifold. The front one (in this case) is the MAP connection. The other is much too big for the "kit".

The third photo is shows the "kit" connections.

From here, you're sort of on your own. That said, it isn't rocket science.

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[Rick - Saber]

I have often thought about adding a boost gauge. Had one in my previous vehicle and at times I miss not having one in the truck. Sometimes I use the Torque app.

Do you have more pictures you can share on the install process? Like the nipple on the intake manifold you connected to. The spot on the firewall you routed the tubing through? Other than a quick glance I have not looked much at the intake manifold.

I like the kit you linked to. Have saved it for later.

Yes, it is normal for the boost to drop some as red line approaches. The turbo is reaching the top end of it's efficiency range in the amount of air it can move.

 

[Rinn69]

I have often thought about adding a boost gauge. Had one in my previous vehicle and at times I miss not having one in the truck. Sometimes I use the Torque app.

Do you have more pictures you can share on the install process? Like the nipple on the intake manifold you connected to. The spot on the firewall you routed the tubing through? Other than a quick glance I have not looked much at the intake manifold.

I like the kit you linked to. Have saved it for later.

Yes, it is normal for the boost to drop some as red line approaches. The turbo is reaching the top end of it's efficiency range in the amount of air it can move.

@Apples Ditto ^^^ Pics would be awesome

 

[Apples]

I'll get a few taken in the morning. Things are a bit tight under the dash and behind the ABS drive motor, but I'll try.

The routing on the tubing is as I described. You almost have to be a contortionist to do the job, but if an octogenarian can do it, so can most other folks.

 

[Zetterbeard]

I would love to do a mechanical gauge, I am just hesitant about mounting. I wish we had an a-pillar housing or something a bit more clean than I have seen. I also wish I could find a gauge that more closely mimicked the more recent year Ford clusters with the teal needle. Uniformity is the goal, but I understand that is getting picky...

 

[Apples]

I looked for over a month for an "A" pillar mount to no avail. I did buy one that supposedly you could heat and reform, but that didn't work out. Besides, the "A" pillar is full of stuff all but negating using it for gauges.

 

[Apples]

I'll add a few fresh comments. If you remove the top of the dash tray, you will see a path for the tubing in the left rear corner of the open top of the dash assembly. If you route the tubing under the right hand driver's HVAC vent, the tube will easily come out through the bottom of the dash assembly.

This specific gauge is lighted, and has a ground, and three other wires. One if the keep alive (always on), one is the dimmer wire, and one is for the switched line. I connected them all together for several reasons. Even at a full 14 volts, the lighting in the gauge isn't bright enough to see well is daylight, and not overpowering at night. The keep alive doesn't do anything except make sure the one of the seven color patterns you've selected stays selected. However, the red on blue is the default color and is the best one to use.

You don't have to use this specific gauge. I even thought of using a Bosch gauge (black on while background), but when the backlight is on, it reverses and is much too bright.

I installed an electronic gauge on my Honda EX-T, and it turned out to be almost a disaster. I ended up replacing it with one just like you see here. much better idea eye-candy wise.

I can't think of anything else which would aid and abet you all in duplicating the effort. Other than, doing it this way, and you want to go back to stock, the only thing you will need to do, is buy another tray. It is about $50 delivered.

 

[ISUACE]

Do you have a picture as to where the pressure line you tapped into is? Could you show where in the engine bay it is? Your photo is a bit zoomed in.. I'd love to do this mod.

 

[Apples]

The "kit" for the Mustang will work as I said. Once you get that kit, and you look at the intake manifold, it will become glaring evident which female fitting on the intake manifold is the correct one. Unfortunately, there are several identical fittings like the one which comes with the kit. However, there is ONLY one female fitting on the INTAKE manifold that looks correct. It is NOT easy to get to, but it can be done. Just be very careful when reaching your hands through the maze of hoses, clamps, and wiring.

As shown, the correct "hose" to remove off the intake manifold, has a green clip. Then an identical fitting is attached to the kit, plus a male to connect the factory fitting to.

 

[Rick - Saber]

Thanks for the info.

 

[ISUACE]

I don't know how many folks have taken the time to install a boost gauge on their Ranger. Those who have, I'd like some comments from.

I'm seeing max boost at about 22 psi (I have the Ford Performance tune), but typically at lower ambient temperatures—say between 50° to about 75° or so. My boost drops about 2 psi as the RPM approaches redline, which I expect is normal. It also goes down at higher ambients, which is also normal.

I've read that the normal boost range is 17 to 18 pounds, but I didn't install my gauge until after the software upgrade.

By the way, this is the kit I used: (https://cp-e.com/shop/product/ford-ecoboost-2-3l-turbo-maptap/)

As I said before, it is difficult to get the connections made due to the location of the "nipple" on the intake manifold. That part took me about 10 minutes, and about 3 minor cuts! The hard part was fishing the tubing down through the heater ducting. I had to take out the top-of-dash tray, after which it went the first time. I mounted my gauge in the tray.

If you use nylon 1/4" OD tubing, and a "PLASTIC" wire fish tape (available from Home Disappointment), fish the tubing above and to the left the hood release cable as seen from the inside of the cabin. With a little effort, you can then pull the tubing by simply pushing it over the ferrel on the fish tape, and pull from the engine side. Took me about 20 minutes total.

Here are the best photos I can take. Space is at a premium, and without some sort of "snorkel" camera, this is about as good as it gets.

The blue nylon tube is the pressure line.

There are two connections to the intake manifold. The front one (in this case) is the MAP connection. The other is much too big for the "kit".

The third photo is shows the "kit" connections.

From here, you're sort of on your own. That said, it isn't rocket science.

I'm assuming this is the line you tapped into for boost pressure?

 

[Apples]

Yes, and you can see how hard it is to get at. Lots of sharp edges to cut you. Just be careful!

 

[ISUACE]

Yes, and you can see how hard it is to get at. Lots of sharp edges to cut you. Just be careful!

Thanks for the confirmation! I also ordered the same cp-e Ford EcoBoost 2.3 MAP Intake Manifold Pressure Reference MAPtap... hopefully things go smoothly...

I am going to try and mount it near the A-Pillar using the small defog vent on the dash. Australian Rangers have a vent with a gauge mount built into it... I'm going to try and use this and see if I can get close...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018ALWOE/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But having these in the US market would be awesome...

 

[Zetterbeard]

Yes, and you can see how hard it is to get at. Lots of sharp edges to cut you. Just be careful!

Are you getting vacuum readings using the cp-e kit?

 

[Apples]

Of course. The kit connects directly to the intake manifold, hence boost and vacuum.

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