Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Leveling Shock Kit

Dr. Zaius

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What's the difference in the 6112s up front? Not questioning....just shock stupid...lol.
6112 is a heavier duty shock absorber.

~2.5" body vs 2.0" body so it has more oil capacity and will run cooler under constant cycling.

6112 is more off-road oriented for a vehicle that spends a lot more time in the boonies.

Kind of a Nice To Have But Not Really Necessary for the vast majority of drivers.
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LoneRNGR

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What's the difference in the 6112s up front? Not questioning....just shock stupid...lol.
Larger diameter, so it holds more fluid, and would stay cooler longer in adverse use. It also has more detent settings allowing more preload adjustment. It was available during the height of Covid supply chain restrictions when the 5100 was not.
 

BettaRanga

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Did the front struts yesterday - was wiped out and haven’t driven a lot yet, so can’t give a solid report. First driving felt very nice though, firm but planted. Diving during braking is gone.

I bought axle nuts from Ford ahead of time to replace the fronts while doing this upgrade, so had no cv joint issues.

The most challenging part was rebuilding the spring assemblies. Didn’t see anyone mention that on here, but it’s no joke compressing the spring enough when adding lift to the strut.

If ever doing this again, I would likely either purchase a more expensive kit that is already assembled or take both assemblies off and bring to a local shop to have them assemble.
 

BettaRanga

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Did the front struts yesterday - was wiped out and haven’t driven a lot yet, so can’t give a solid report. First driving felt very nice though, firm but planted. Diving during braking is gone.

I bought axle nuts from Ford ahead of time to replace the fronts while doing this upgrade, so had no cv joint issues.

The most challenging part was rebuilding the spring assemblies. Didn’t see anyone mention that on here, but it’s no joke compressing the spring enough when adding lift to the strut.

If ever doing this again, I would likely either purchase a more expensive kit that is already assembled or take both assemblies off and bring to a local shop to have them assemble.
Picture from this morning, my driveway has a slight pitch. Stock tires 265/60/18

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2020XLT

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I am having a local shop install my front Bilstein 5100's tomorrow and will have them keep the original setup as much as possible. I measured the height of the truck from the ground to the center of the front wheel arch with the tape measure centered at center of the wheel. Drivers side measured 34.5 inches, passenger side measured just over 35 inches. Truck is empty inside and in the bed, only my MX4 bed cover is installed on this stock 2020 XLT. Only thing I can figure is the weight of an almost full tank of gas might cause slight lean on the front. I have not measured the rear height at the rear wheel arch. Anyone have any thoughts? Should I ask them to adjust driver side to match passenger or leave it as is?
 

LoneRNGR

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will have them keep the original setup as much as possible. I measured the height of the truck from the ground to the center of the front wheel arch
If you aren't preloading the springs, then you shouldn't have much difference, if any, in height.
 

jflogerzi

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Did the front struts yesterday - was wiped out and haven’t driven a lot yet, so can’t give a solid report. First driving felt very nice though, firm but planted. Diving during braking is gone.

I bought axle nuts from Ford ahead of time to replace the fronts while doing this upgrade, so had no cv joint issues.

The most challenging part was rebuilding the spring assemblies. Didn’t see anyone mention that on here, but it’s no joke compressing the spring enough when adding lift to the strut.

If ever doing this again, I would likely either purchase a more expensive kit that is already assembled or take both assemblies off and bring to a local shop to have them assemble.
Did you not rent the spring compression tool?
 

BettaRanga

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Did you not rent the spring compression tool?
Did have the tool - rented one and had a second one on hand.

It was still challenge to get the spring compressed enough. It also is just the most potentially dangerous part, so it was a relief to get the top secured again.
 

jflogerzi

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Did have the tool - rented one and had a second one on hand.

It was still challenge to get the spring compressed enough. It also is just the most potentially dangerous part, so it was a relief to get the top secured again.
Hence paid a shop to do mine. I am.not that handy. If I still had complete coils like a 2.0 system I might have tackled this myself. Also labor would have been cheaper offsetting the 2.0 costs vs the 5100s
 

BettaRanga

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Hence paid a shop to do mine. I am.not that handy. If I still had complete coils like a 2.0 system I might have tackled this myself. Also labor would have been cheaper offsetting the 2.0 costs vs the 5100s
Agreed - although you could probably get a shop to just reassemble the coilovers for relatively cheap though. Would still be cheaper than full coilover replacement options.

It does feel great so far though. Very pleased.
 

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Bilstein 6112 up front set at 0.8" higher than stock. 5100 in the rear. Trashed the FX4 shocks. 1 1/2 years and they ride great. Do not follow video instructions from Stage3. Here is a link to Josh Mills removing the front struts. If you do it like this, then you will not put any stress on your drive shafts.
Love Josh's videos - But was that a saws all!!! ?
I found this video which uses a less "destructive" approach and minimizes front suspension tear-down. Its for 6112s also, but applies to any front strut replacement. Plan to follow this one when I do my fronts.
Anyone try his method?
 

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Love Josh's videos - But was that a saws all!!! ?
I found this video which uses a less "destructive" approach and minimizes front suspension tear-down. Its for 6112s also, but applies to any front strut replacement. Plan to follow this one when I do my fronts.
Anyone try his method?
seen that before. He makes it look easy
 

micl9

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seen that before. He makes it look easy
I know , right!
I saw the other video where that guy took EVERYTHING apart! And probably spent $100 in new nuts and bolts!
I will give this a try and report back
 

LoneRNGR

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I will give this a try and report back
So, in that video at 5:15, he pushes down on the lower control arm. This puts stress on the joints on the half shafts. If you are going to do this, then you must remove the axle nut so you can press down on the LCA without stressing the joint. THIS is the whole problem. Everyone doing this is coming back later with ruined half shafts.
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