Auto Start Stop (ASS) Eliminator

Highlander

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I thought this looked like a fun way to deal the the ASS problem... a switchbot.

Link to the hackaday post.

Screenshot_20230111-234216.jpg


Enjoy!

Frank
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Bsthroop

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I thought this looked like a fun way to deal the the ASS problem... a switchbot.

Link to the hackaday post.

Screenshot_20230111-234216.jpg


Enjoy!

Frank
Cool devise Frank, but I'll still have to use my LED nightlight. The Polish in me still can't bring myself to spend $29.00 when the nightlight is only $4.00 for a 2 pk. ?
 

BettaRanga

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Cool devise Frank, but I'll still have to use my LED nightlight. The Polish in me still can't bring myself to spend $29.00 when the nightlight is only $4.00 for a 2 pk. ?
I tried a nightlight but had a weird electrical hum in the cab when it was plugged in. For a few days, I thought I had a problem with a rear speaker but it stopped when I unplugged the nightlight.

I probably just need to try another kind of nightlight.
 

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OrlandoJay23

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If you're trying to eliminate the auto start stop, just disconnect the small wires on the negative terminal on the battery... Auto Start stop deleted. Then pop switch out and disconect.
 

JesseS

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If you're trying to eliminate the auto start stop, just disconnect the small wires on the negative terminal on the battery... Auto Start stop deleted. Then pop switch out and disconect.
But doesn't that defeat the BMS also?
 
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AzScorpion

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JesseS

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The BMS is self defeating to begin with.
The BMS does serve a purpose, I just think they have the SOC set to low, why I raised mine. The Internal BMS's in my Lithium Batteries are great, give them CV/CC and they will balance and charge each battery for optimum performance.
 

dtech

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The BMS does serve a purpose, I just think they have the SOC set to low, why I raised mine. The Internal BMS's in my Lithium Batteries are great, give them CV/CC and they will balance and charge each battery for optimum performance.
As I don't use ASS or BMS, I see little need for it, not everyone uses Forscan (I do not) then what do you do - go to the dealer to change it, sure maybe it works better with a higher SOC but it seems to be a flawed system as sold. And as you well know comparing the lith-ion BMS to Ford's - is that a valid comparison , seems apples to oranges.
 

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As I don't use ASS or BMS, I see little need for it, not everyone uses Forscan (I do not) then what do you do - go to the dealer to change it, sure maybe it works better with a higher SOC but it seems to be a flawed system as sold. And as you well know comparing the lith-ion BMS to Ford's - is that a valid comparison , seems apples to oranges.
True about the lithium comparison, just making the point that they have a use or wouldn't be there. Without a BMS in a system designed for one you do run the risk of a constant over charge, shortening the life of the battery.
 

dtech

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True about the lithium comparison, just making the point that they have a use or wouldn't be there. Without a BMS in a system designed for one you do run the risk of a constant over charge, shortening the life of the battery.
According to the airline tech's research and another gent who courageously disconnected the BMS, charging voltages higher than 14.5 V have not been seen, I concur with that and have had my BMS disc'd for over a year now and battery remains healthy. Having said that when it does die I'll likely go with flooded LA, but I am expecting the current batt to live long and prosper. What airline tech's tutorial hopefully may reveal what is the relationship with the smart charge system and the bms, and if bms disco negates smart charge. As smart charge was there 1st I believe BMS adds additional functions - which I believe are mainly geared towards ASS support. BTW - a year back when I disco'd the BMS did some research and found nothing that indicates such a bold move would destroy the battery - some of that found on an F-150 forum where a greater number have done it.
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