Homelink - Garage Door Opener

[Muscleford]

I read through the thread on this but old mind is foggy. Is Homelink active all the time or does the truck need to be running (Ignition needs to be on) for it to be active?

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[Tom_C]

On mine, if I open the door and the system comes alive, it will work. Also, the system stays on for 15 minutes after shutdown and everything works during that time.

 

[Grumpaw]

I read through the thread on this but old mind is foggy. Is Homelink active all the time or does the truck need to be running (Ignition needs to be on) for it to be active?

My 2021 Lariat with push button ignition.....garage opener operates when parked, ignition off. It works weather the key fob is in my pocket, and without the fob anywhere near the truck. Obviously works when truck is running.
Don't know about operation with key'd ignitions, weather on/off...
I did not "time" it like Tom C did....just tried it first with ignition off and fob in my pocket, and then a few minutes laterr tried the same with no fob....had it inside house. Both times operated door up and down while truck was off.

 

[IdahoRanger]

What I need to know is how to reprogram it to a new garage door opener. Had to replace one and too lazy to look it up.

 

[Muscleford]

Thanks for the responses I have a 2021 Lariat so what you tested Steve is my exact situation. Now I will not bother to program mine since my truck sits outside 100% of the time.

 

[Grumpaw]

Thanks for the responses I have a 2021 Lariat so what you tested Steve is my exact situation. Now I will not bother to program mine since my truck sits outside 100% of the time.

I understand you not wanting to have a "working" opener, outside, that could possibly be used to open the door (my Ranger is garaged 100% of the time).I don't know if, after a certain period of time, like 15 minutes or so, the link would still operate without any fob.
Simple to determine....just park as you usually do, leave the truck for a set amount of time, and try to open with any fob nearby...

DISREGUARD.....I just went out to my Lariat thats been sitting for several hours and hit the door opener...no fob within 30 feet....and door opener worked to open and close the garage door.

 

[Muscleford]

Thanks for the confirmation Steve

 

[airline tech]

Yes - The HomeLink is always powered via the Vanity (Mirror) circuit.
That circuit is all encompassed into the Courtesy Lighting circuit.

So as long as the Vanity Mirror has power the Homelink will also have power, so if you were to open and close the door, the Vanity Mirror / Homelink will stay powered for 10 Minutes then power drops from the Batt/Save circuit - so yes power will drop, and the switch becomes unpowered, so if the window is open or you are just sitting in the truck the switch is - not powered
Until - You open the door or trigger a (Unlock / Lock) from the FOB.

From a Theft Standpoint

Door's Being Unlocked - Easy Access, no alarm sounds and easy access (open the door) and just hit the button and open the garage door.
But
If the Door is locked - just breaking the glass - the Homelink will not be powered until the door is opened and if the door is opened - The ALARM will be triggered, so the test that needs to be performed (as I am unsure) in this now alarm state.

Is the (Courtesy Lighting) triggered on when the alarm is triggered or is it triggered to deactivate?
This will tell us if the (Vanity Mirror/ Homelink) is powered to allow someone (with the alarm sounding) can they reach up and press the button to gain access to the garage?

To Test - Lock the doors but leave the window open:
Get the FOB and PHONE away from the truck:
Reach in through the window and open the door from the inside, the alarm will trigger.
Do you have Courtesy Lights (On), Do the Vanity Lights (Work) and Do the Homelink Buttons (Work)?

I am not sure as to how the circuit is handled in a (Forced Entry) event, but the Door Ajar circuit triggers both the (Alarm) and the (Courtesy Lighting) and if the Alarm is triggered by (Forced Entry) I do not know if it turns off the (Courtesy Lighting) circuit without physically testing it out.
Even if it stays powered - The Alarm will be sounding and that alarm will start sounding after a 12-Second delay, during this 12-Seconds the IPC is beeping with a -Message - ALARM TRIGGERED

I tested this awhile back, but did not pay attention to the (Courtesy Lighting) - If it was (ON)
So, a secondary test is needed here with specific attention to the - Homelink Circuit.

One could possibly take the - Driver's Vanity Mirror and Re-Wire it to a (Switched Circuit) but unknown if the BCM will trigger faults for it and disable the whole (Courtesy Lighting) circuit

Another Note: Even if the Homelink powers during a (Forced Entry) event, it is still better than a Garage Door Remote (Only) where someone can just simply break a window and reach in and press the button (gaining access) and no alarm sounding.
So yes, the Homelink is not wired as (switched power) but you have to think about what it actually takes to get it to power from that (always hot) circuit.

 

[Motorpsychology]

What I need to know is how to reprogram it to a new garage door opener. Had to replace one and too lazy to look it up.

Open the garage door using the house keypad or pushbutton on the wall. On your garage door motor, there should be a switch for normal operation and programming a new device, Homelink in your case. Put the switch in program (might be labelled Pair)mode and then follow the instructions for pairing the Homelink. When finished, put the motor switch back in Normal operation .

 

[WhyNot21]

Most, if not all garage door openers have a vacation mode setting on the inside control. It removes all remote functionality while set. That's what I would use if I was worried about someone trying to open my garage door from my truck's Homelink buttons. Might not be convenient if you have others that may need to enter during that time.

Since this is not unique to Ford, I've been on other forums where people rewire their Homelink's power to operate only when the vehicle is powered. That said, I sometimes have a hard time opening my garage door with it when I'm just outside of the garage. I need to press it several times just to get it to activate.

 

[Tom_C]

What I need to know is how to reprogram it to a new garage door opener. Had to replace one and too lazy to look it up.

I just had to fiddle with reprogramming one button.

https://homelink.com/program/instructions/row

 

[micl9]

Discovered this when I added a homelink visor to my XLT.
I usually like to wire up additions in a stock manner, but when I Discovered it's always on I wired to an ign source. So mine only works when truck is on.
Would be an easy fix/rewire as the sources are all in be a pillar IIRC.

 

[Muscleford]

Discovered this when I added a homelink visor to my XLT.
I usually like to wire up additions in a stock manner, but when I Discovered it's always on I wired to an ign source. So mine only works when truck is on.
Would be an easy fix/rewire as the sources are all in be a pillar IIRC.

How do you get into the "A" pillar? Also finding the needed wire and the wire live when the ignition is on? Just trying to make it easy for myself.

Thanks

 

[airline tech]

As far as the wiring, the Homelink is embedded into the visor and from what others have stated not easily removable so you will need to rewire the power feed for the visor itself. It is just a 2-wire connector. Power & Ground.

Now you have some options here, but it depends on if you have or plan on adding a tapped power source for the (Auto-Dimming) mirror - The popular spot for a Dash Cam (Tap)
As that is the closest spot to tap for (Switched Power)
That Power is Fuse 36 (BCM) it powers after the (Run/Start) Relay closes.

The wire feed comes up the (A-Pillar) to C913 - (Roughly - Dash Level)
Pin #5 = Courtesy Lighting (feeding all the overhead lights (including the Vanity Mirror) Power
Pin #7 = Auto-Dimming Mirror (Power)

Vanity Mirror (Visor) Connector = C907
The best thing would be to get a (Replacement) connector and just disconnect the OE and run a new power & ground source. No damage to the (OE) wiring and then cover/ protect the OE connector and securely stow it.

C-907 -- PN: WPT-1197 (Runs about $45.00) expensive but this will allow the mod to be done correctly and easy revert back to (OE)

or
Disconnect the Vanity (Visor) connector and cut the power feed wire allowing enough wire on the connector (side) for splicing and (resplicing) if wanting or needing to revert back to OE
This is the (Yellow/Green) Wire
If you choose this route, you will only need to splice (power) as the vanity mirror is already grounded.

I always prefer and recommend keeping the OE wire harness intact, when possible, vs cutting into any wire,

So now we need to figure out where to tap an alternate (switched power) source
The closest spot is the Auto-Dimming mirror power, and you can wire down to the C913 connector and (TAP) Pin #7 (Blue/Brown) wire.
Or
Run the wiring over to the mirror and tap the Power Wire There (C9039 - Pin #1 (Blue/Brown) wire
Or
Simply run the power feed down to the BCM (fuse box) and tap a (Switch Power) fuse

The Ground wire if using a new connector will just (Tap) back into the OE wiring harness and if cutting and splicing (at the mirror/visor) Power Only - just leave the ground as is.

As I stated earlier this MAY trigger a fault on the Courtesy Lighting circuit (FET) protection and it will see an open on the circuit, no IPC messages or lights but will show up in a scan of the BCM that's why I recommend doing this modification so it can be easily reverted back to OE as the BCM has the capability of shutting down the circuit (meaning all lighting on that circuit) so all courtesy lighting.
It may not do anything except show a faulted circuit with a BCM scan, so just putting out the possible outcome if you have issues after this modification so you can recover the circuit if needed.

Ref: Auto-Dim Mirror

C913 Location

To Remove the A-Pillar Trim panel, pull the weather strip out and gently pry the trim out towards you.
The Sunvisor - Connector will be accessible when you remove the visor

You should be able to route any wiring as needed without dropping the headliner.

 

[micl9]

Exactly how I did it when adding. Adding did not trigger a code.
When i get home I can search where I sourced the connector. I agree in not cutting stock harness!

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