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How To Lubricate Your Driveshaft Slip Joint

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Thank you for being so thorough. I'm not afraid to tackle this job, just wanted part numbers and parts before I did it. Very detailed and have encouraged me to fix EXACTLY what I'm fully aware is annoying me. Any chance you noticed a difference in vibration that we all suffer from at highway speeds?
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Cactus Jack

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Thank you for the video. Fantastic work. My ’23 has 9,000 miles currently and I just started to notice the exact clunk that so many have described here. It’s so subtle that at first I thought it was my mind playing tricks on me. I felt like it was a driveshaft issue and I’m relieved that it’s something so simple. We recently had a heat wave with temperatures 105+ for several days in a row and this is when I first noticed the clunk. I’m most likely going to do this myself, because I don’t want the hassle I’ll probably get from my dealership.
 
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quangdog

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Thank you for being so thorough. I'm not afraid to tackle this job, just wanted part numbers and parts before I did it. Very detailed and have encouraged me to fix EXACTLY what I'm fully aware is annoying me. Any chance you noticed a difference in vibration that we all suffer from at highway speeds?
I did not have any vibration at highway speeds - and lubing the slip joint likely will not have any effect such vibrations. Most likely culprit for that would be an imbalanced tire or driveshaft angles that are wonky / out of spec. There are lots of other threads on this forum about highway vibrations.

Since posting this video, I've actually upgraded to a 1-piece driveshaft from Tom Woods, and LOVE it. My truck is silky smooth from 0 mph to ... well, in Mexico well over 100 mph. No vibrations, no clunks, etc.

But staying on topic: lubig the slip joint will cure the light/medium clunk many drivers experience just as they come to a stop or pull away from a stop.
 

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I did this yesterday and mine was bone dry. Had no idea it was that bad. Either Ford didn't grease it at all or the grease is so terrible it evaporates. I used the Blaster Heavy Duty green grease. Also messed with the band clamps for about 30 seconds before I threw them and used worm gear clamps instead. The bonk when coming to a stop is gone now. Unbelievable.

 

GhostStrykre

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I did this yesterday and mine was bone dry. Had no idea it was that bad. Either Ford didn't grease it at all or the grease is so terrible it evaporates. I used the Blaster Heavy Duty green grease. Also messed with the band clamps for about 30 seconds before I threw them and used worm gear clamps instead. The bonk when coming to a stop is gone now. Unbelievable.

I don’t get a thud as I come to a stop, but I do occasionally get a light thud in the transmission when letting off the gas at a speed like 45mph. It’s not hateful. You think that lubing the slip joint would help with that, or you think it’s an entirely different issue?
 


MountainGoat

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I don’t get a thud as I come to a stop, but I do occasionally get a light thud in the transmission when letting off the gas at a speed like 45mph. It’s not hateful. You think that lubing the slip joint would help with that, or you think it’s an entirely different issue?
Maybe, it's the same kind of forward shifting motion. I would relube it regardless just because of how dry it was and use aftermarket lube not the motorcraft. It's a easy job. I ordered a new boot but it wasn't necessary. All that's needed besides the lube is new clamps for the boot.
 

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Great video, I think I'm going to do this to mine now that it's at 64k miles. This is my first truck so I don't know what to do with a driveshaft or differential as far as maintenance goes.

Just gotta say, I was impressed at how calm you were during that whole video. I'm a pretty patient person unless I'm working on vehicles/boat motors. The whole neighborhood can hear me anytime something goes even just a little bit wrong. I would have been losing my sh*t lining the splines on the shaft up.
 

NJ_Highlander

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I did the slip joint service using your video as a guide, it was great, I knew exactly what to expect. The whole job took about 2 hours. I used my electric impact to loosen / remove the bolts.
One thing that helps a lot is a helper so you don’t have to get out from underneath the truck to step on the brakes in between rotating the driveshaft. My 2019 looked identical to yours in that there was very little grease to be found in the joint.
The clunk is completely gone now.

Now if only I could get the transmission filler plug out so I could get my MBS dipstick installed…..
 

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What type of grease is everyone using? Seems like the blue Motocraft might not last as long as some others. I've read Blaster Heavy Duty, CV-2, and CS Moly (appears @EJH has had good results with this).
 

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What type of grease is everyone using? Seems like the blue Motocraft might not last as long as some others. I've read Blaster Heavy Duty, CV-2, and CS Moly (appears @EJH has had good results with this).
CS Moly still going strong here after 10 months. Super smooth drive line. The truck has been in 90-100+ F temps all summer.
 

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I had the start/stop thump, and it was the one thing I hated about this truck. The video was extremely helpful. I used the paint pen, got a new boot (the small end goes aft), new bolts (the factory bolts were way too long), and Motorcraft long life grease. This grease is very thick and black, looks like it has graphite in it.

The factory lube was almost non-existent. There was just a tiny bit of red grease at the end of the female spline. After the lube job, my first stop and start were smooth as silk. We’ll see how long this lasts. Thanks for the fix!
 

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Here is my story relating to the bump on acceleration from a stop...

I bought the truck 3 months ago used, it was a certified used car from a reputable dealership. It was a good deal, 94k miles for 20k. Slowly but surely I noticed a light thump or bump when stopping or accelerating from a stop. It developed to the serious thud. over time and I was nearing 100k miles so I reluctantly (this is a work truck so missing it cost me money) took it to the dealership. I knew something was wrong.

In typical fashion they kept it for two weeks. Then proclaimed they could not reproduce the issues and all they did was perform a transmission re-learn with forscan... >.>

Well, I knew I would have to figure it out myself. I knew 100% it was coming from the rear end. So I went ahead and drained the differential fluid to check for metal shavings and inspect the condition of the fluid. I used a borescope in the fill hole to inspect the condition of the gears inside. Gears and fluid looked fine, nothing out of the ordinary there.

This eventually led me to this forum, and eventually to this thread. Thank you so much for sharing this fix. It is VERY easy if you have the right tools. Here is a picture of everything I used. I did not use a torque wrench, just set the impact to #2 setting and used the German method of gutten-tight.

Honestly this was easier than changing the oil. Seriously. I did not set the parking brake because I just used an impact, the secret here is using a wobble extension to be able to use it. Also I did not have an ear clamp tool/clamps but if you get a CV kit from Amazon the small bands are perfect.

Amazon ear band kit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NDD3TNQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I could not get the blue Ford official grease soon enough and it was nowhere to be found locally so I got some of this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JF2LBQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Bump/thump SOLVED.

Here is everything I needed for the job. Took less than an hour.

**** Tip for getting the splines correct, once you pull out the shaft you will notice a single valley in between splines is all black instead of blue, you'll notice on the female part that there is a couple of spots that have space for two splines, you'll notice it when you take it out even though this may sound confusing.****

PXL_20241012_171312274.jpg
PXL_20241012_171322579.jpg
 

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Here is my story relating to the bump on acceleration from a stop...

I bought the truck 3 months ago used, it was a certified used car from a reputable dealership. It was a good deal, 94k miles for 20k. Slowly but surely I noticed a light thump or bump when stopping or accelerating from a stop. It developed to the serious thud. over time and I was nearing 100k miles so I reluctantly (this is a work truck so missing it cost me money) took it to the dealership. I knew something was wrong.

In typical fashion they kept it for two weeks. Then proclaimed they could not reproduce the issues and all they did was perform a transmission re-learn with forscan... >.>

Well, I knew I would have to figure it out myself. I knew 100% it was coming from the rear end. So I went ahead and drained the differential fluid to check for metal shavings and inspect the condition of the fluid. I used a borescope in the fill hole to inspect the condition of the gears inside. Gears and fluid looked fine, nothing out of the ordinary there.

This eventually led me to this forum, and eventually to this thread. Thank you so much for sharing this fix. It is VERY easy if you have the right tools. Here is a picture of everything I used. I did not use a torque wrench, just set the impact to #2 setting and used the German method of gutten-tight.

Honestly this was easier than changing the oil. Seriously. I did not set the parking brake because I just used an impact, the secret here is using a wobble extension to be able to use it. Also I did not have an ear clamp tool/clamps but if you get a CV kit from Amazon the small bands are perfect.

Amazon ear band kit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NDD3TNQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I could not get the blue Ford official grease soon enough and it was nowhere to be found locally so I got some of this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JF2LBQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Bump/thump SOLVED.

Here is everything I needed for the job. Took less than an hour.

**** Tip for getting the splines correct, once you pull out the shaft you will notice a single valley in between splines is all black instead of blue, you'll notice on the female part that there is a couple of spots that have space for two splines, you'll notice it when you take it out even though this may sound confusing.****

PXL_20241012_171312274.jpg
PXL_20241012_171322579.jpg
I might be wrong, but have always been told not to jack up rear using the bottom of the pumpkin. Please someone correct me if this is bad info.
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