It has happened to me! (Dreaded Fan Sensor - Crumbling Hose!)

[Stevedbvik1]

I looked up the fan clutch and if the pic is correct (and I have the right part#) the hose does not look like it is formed to the shape as on the Ranger. Or am I not seeing what I think I am seeing?

This is the Ranger 5g fan clutch. Definitely a preformed hose

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[got3fords]

This is the Ranger 5g fan clutch. Definitely a preformed hose

I was questioning the pics, not the fact that our Rangers have the preformed hose.

 

[TJC]

This is a great image to highlight what I mentioned earlier. Look at the hose bulge on the Ranger part as compared to the F150 part. The stud inside the hose is a very poor design. I do not know if this design is the primary cause of a failure, but it will certainly negatively impact longevity of the hose.

A dual flare on a pipe gives a nice smooth radius which results in a greater contact area, distributing the flex forces. The Ranger part has 90 degree edges which focus the stress at the smaller contact patch. Poor design.

Ranger Part

F150 Part
Notice the lack of distinct bulges at the hose mount points.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

This is a great image to highlight what I mentioned earlier. Look at the hose bulge on the Ranger part as compared to the F150 part. The stud inside the hose is a very poor design. I do not know if this design is the primary cause of a failure, but it will certainly negatively impact longevity of the hose.

A dual flare on a pipe gives a nice smooth radius which results in a greater contact area, distributing the flex forces. The Ranger part has 90 degree edges which focus the stress at the smaller contact patch. Poor design.

Ranger Part

F150 Part
Notice the lack of distinct bulges at the hose mount points.

If you zoom in on the area you circled it looks like the hose may already be cracked in the area you’re describing. Image was from EBay so probably a used one

 

[TJC]

If you zoom in on the area you circled it looks like the hose may already be cracked in the area you’re describing. Image was from EBay so probably a used one

I did not see that, but I see it now!

Fitz, If you are listening I see another opportunity for you! Fabricate a replacement engine stud piece correcting the design.

Thinking out loud here, I may go back and modify mine. Cut a steel brake line to size, dual flare it on one end and it tap the line on the other end, then drill out the bracket removing the existing stud and secure the new stud to the existing bracket with a bolt. Use Locktite blue to insure it doesn't loosen.

I think this just might work!

- T

 

[NotBudule]

Can the wire be run inside like the F150 ?

 

[ctechbob]

I'm pondering this Ford debacle and I think I have a moderate safety solution that might work if you're willing to put new clamps on the hose.

Thinking about popping my clamps off and running a length of braid over the pipe, like this:

Re-clamp it and the braid should keep tension on the assembly if the hose crumbles. I'm going to look for a good high temp braid though and not the cheap nylon stuff.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

I did not see that, but I see it now!

Fitz, If you are listening I see another opportunity for you! Fabricate a replacement engine stud piece correcting the design.

Thinking out loud here, I may go back and modify mine. Cut a steel brake line to size, dual flare it on one end and it tap the line on the other end, then drill out the bracket removing the existing stud and secure the new stud to the existing bracket with a bolt. Use Locktite blue to insure it doesn't loosen.

I think this just might work!

- T

Wow, that’s where my mind went too! @Fitzmotor to the rescue ?

 

[pboggini]

I did not see that, but I see it now!

Fitz, If you are listening I see another opportunity for you! Fabricate a replacement engine stud piece correcting the design.

Thinking out loud here, I may go back and modify mine. Cut a steel brake line to size, dual flare it on one end and it tap the line on the other end, then drill out the bracket removing the existing stud and secure the new stud to the existing bracket with a bolt. Use Locktite blue to insure it doesn't loosen.

I think this just might work!

- T

I like that idea.

 

[Muffin1]

Is the fan suppose to be spinning during highway cruising speeds or does the clutch deactivate it from spinning?

 

[TJC]

Is the fan suppose to be spinning during highway cruising speeds or does the clutch deactivate it from spinning?

The clutch will cycle when the coolant temps break the upper operating range threshold and will continue to run until the coolant temp drops to the lower range threshold. So it can theoretically cycle / run at anytime.

 

[ctechbob]

Is the fan suppose to be spinning during highway cruising speeds or does the clutch deactivate it from spinning?

Even if it is commanded to 0% it will still be windmilling. There's a small amount of drag in the system that keeps it spinning at all times, although not at full speed. Plus, when you're at highway speeds, the air coming through the cooling stack will push on it.

 

[TJC]

Started thinking about what might work "off the shelf", and this came to mind
I dug out one of my old pneumatic air fittings. This one happens to be a male fitting. It fits snugly into a piece of the silicone hose that I used to fabricate the new bridge.

I was looking for one of my brass fittings as I recall the flared area was more rounded than the steel one.

Here is the fitting and the hose.

And connected. If I went this route I would clamp on the shoulder. I could not pull the hose off the fitting by hand. I had to mount it in a vise and then twist the hose to break the seal and get it to release. I am not sure the bracket is wide to support the diameter of the required hole.

I still prefer the dual flare option better, but I think this would work.

I'm just brain storming out loud a little bit.

 

[Glocker]

The amount of home engineering around this very stupid issue makes me smile. You guys are pretty damn awesome! Damn, I love this forum!

 

[Fitzmotor]

Interesting, whatever is used might have to be stout, would it have to be something strong enough to secure the fan?

What is the failure mode?

Fan locks up and rips everything out?

Or is it simpler than that, the hose fails and things start to gently rotate?

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