Rear brakes - Pads and Rotors needed

[UtahShooting]

I'm getting the shuddering when braking on my 2019 Ranger Lariat 4WD. 61K miles.

What's a good source for new vented rotors and pads? Also, a good how-to on this? I understand the tears need a special tool to compress rotors. I've never don't that and always used c clamp.

Is removing rotors as easy as any other vehicle?

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[Rp930]

Following. Any good rotor suggestions?

 

[TheDo114]

I just replaced my rear ones with these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08D25BT6G?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Very satisfied.

 

[PltFX4]

I'm getting the shuddering when braking on my 2019 Ranger Lariat 4WD. 61K miles.

What's a good source for new vented rotors and pads? Also, a good how-to on this? I understand the tears need a special tool to compress rotors. I've never don't that and always used c clamp.

Is removing rotors as easy as any other vehicle?

For reference:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/rear-brake-pad-replacement.27751/

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...akes-at-7100-miles-guess-so.26289/post-604684

I purchased the special tool to retract the calipers (~$25 on Amazon (link to it in both above links)).
Note: Don't recall which is which but one side is left handed thread, the other side is right handed.

 

[jflogerzi]

you can rent the tool for free. I always use centric premium blank face rotors. honestly just go with oem Ford pads

 

[landiscarrier]

I purchased mine from Rock Auto. Yes the pistons need to be “turned” in and they (piston)have to be aligned just right or you will have issues.

Rock Auto has many different options. Personally I don’t think you need vented.

 

[Frenchy]

I have learned that the factory rotors are generally speaking the best you can ever get when compared to most aftermarket rotors. Also it helps to learn how to brake In a way that you don't normally warp rotors.

One thing to also consider is the fact that the Ranger uses an electronic limited slip type traction device. This particular device is also known as the ABS controller. It's simply pulses the brakes in the rear to help you keep traction when accelerating heavily.

 

[Colo_Ranger]

I'm getting the shuddering when braking on my 2019 Ranger Lariat 4WD. 61K miles.

What's a good source for new vented rotors and pads? Also, a good how-to on this? I understand the tears need a special tool to compress rotors. I've never don't that and always used c clamp.

Is removing rotors as easy as any other vehicle?

Check out R1 Concepts for pads and rotors. I have them on my Ranger and they offer a better bite all around. If you go to their website and chat with their employees, they will link you to the exact pads and rotors for your use case. Decently priced. I am very happy with mine.

As for the swap, its as simple as any other disc brake job. The tool is easy, but you need to compress the piston in order to screw it back in. Any auto parts store should have the tool for rent.

 

[lariat]

I have learned that the factory rotors are generally speaking the best you can ever get when compared to most aftermarket rotors. Also it helps to learn how to brake In a way that you don't normally warp rotors.

One thing to also consider is the fact that the Ranger uses an electronic limited slip type traction device. This particular device is also known as the ABS controller. It's simply pulses the brakes in the rear to help you keep traction when accelerating heavily.

Is this why Ranger brakes suck to bad?

I can't stand the mush factor with OEM brakes They will stop, but you need to plan and anticipate. I plan on some alternative soon.

 

[Frenchy]

Is this why Ranger brakes suck to bad?

I can't stand the mush factor with OEM brakes They will stop, but you need to plan and anticipate. I plan on some alternative soon.

Nope. What you are having a problem with most likely is the fact on how the brake fluid is degraded and needs to be flushed along with an ABS Bleed. Doing that should solve your issue

 

[lariat]

Nope. What you are having a problem with most likely is the fact on how the brake fluid is degraded and needs to be flushed along with an ABS Bleed. Doing that should solve your issue

It's been like this since new so I can't see in any way the oil has degraded as it never reached high operating temps. Now, perhaps it was a poor bleed from the factory or containments entered the system, but no way has the oil degraded with no initial use and even now, only 10K miles. They sucked from the factory, but I've heard similar sentiment from others.

 

[Frenchy]

It's been like this since new so I can't see in any way the oil has degraded as it never reached high operating temps. Now, perhaps it was a poor bleed from the factory or containments entered the system, but no way has the oil degraded with no initial use and even now, only 10K miles. They sucked from the factory, but I've heard similar sentiment from others.

What year is the truck? You can't just go by the miles. There is also time as well. Also if you brake hard enough and long enough you will heat up the brake fluid quick enough for it to boil. When it boils, it starts to degrade. When dry DOT 3 will boil around 400° F. Around 300° F when wet. It doesn't take much to get Brakes up to that temperature on simple daily driving.

 

[RangerBill]

Is this why Ranger brakes suck to bad?

I can't stand the mush factor with OEM brakes They will stop, but you need to plan and anticipate. I plan on some alternative soon.

You should bleed the brakes. Some have reported air in the brake lines from the factory and bleeding them firmed up the brake pedal.

 

[lariat]

What year is the truck? You can't just go by the miles. There is also time as well. Also if you brake hard enough and long enough you will heat up the brake fluid quick enough for it to boil. When it boils, it starts to degrade. When dry DOT 3 will boil around 400° F. Around 300° F when wet. It doesn't take much to get Brakes up to that temperature on simple daily driving.

22...As stated, it's been like this from the onset. I work on MC's so I've done plenty of brake fluid and pads and have bleed lines more times than I care to. It's either air in the line, or Ford OEM brakes just aren't any good. I don't know as I've never had they working properly. What I do know is that many have reported excellent results with aftermarket kits....Overkill? Perhaps, but I'm after results, not chasing things only to end up where I planned to start. I like tight brakes.

 

[Frenchy]

22...As stated, it's been like this from the onset. I work on MC's so I've done plenty of brake fluid and pads and have bleed lines more times than I care to. It's either air in the line, or Ford OEM brakes just aren't any good. I don't know as I've never had they working properly. What I do know is that many have reported excellent results with aftermarket kits....Overkill? Perhaps, but I'm after results, not chasing things only to end up where I planned to start. I like tight brakes.

Pads and rotors will not fix your issue. You need to flush and bleed the fluid. Make sure to do an ABS Bleed. If you don't have a scan tool, invest in ForScan. It will do that function and a bunch of other things.

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