New Transmission time. 😮‍💨

[Stevedbvik1]

So far, it sucks taking out a transmission in these Rangers. Who puts a starter in the middle of the engine behind the oil filter?

GM, in my 2004 Colorado.

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[NotBudule]

Who puts a starter in the middle of the engine behind the oil filter?

Cadillac Northstar , yes that's the starter INSIDE THE ENGINE , UNDER THE INTAKE !!!

 

[TJC]

I'll match the Ranger and raise you the Cadillac Northstar! Everyone folds... Game over!

 

[Colo_Ranger]

So far, it sucks taking out a transmission in these Rangers. Who puts a starter in the middle of the engine behind the oil filter?

That would be an engineer who has never actually worked on a vehicle before.

Chevy Cavalier was a design wonder. The oil filter was on the block and the exhaust headers went from above the filter to below the filter (<) and the only way to remove the filter was to leak oil all over the hot exhaust pipe. It was super duper fun...

 

[Stic-o]

New used transmission is here

 

[Msfitoy]

Cadillac Northstar , yes that's the starter INSIDE THE ENGINE , UNDER THE INTAKE !!!

The starter engineer..."good thing I'm first to work today...well there's a nice empty space...there...done...let's golf!"...

 

[ctechbob]

Don't forget, the harbinger of reliability, Toyota/Lexus did that same shit too. Starter underneath the intake in a V8.

 

[Loweredon33s]

So far, it sucks taking out a transmission in these Rangers. Who puts a starter in the middle of the engine behind the oil filter?

I did it in about 8 hours after work one evening. The starter! Cooler and torque converter bolts were the most time consuming part.
It’s really not a bad job once you know how it goes.

 

[Stic-o]

Just want to put this here. The Solenoid Body Strategy needs to be updated when swapping the trans or the solenoid for the valve body. I found this helpful video.

 

[YaBoiNewton]

Well I'm going to call it at this point. Just short of 90k , transmission is pretty much dead. She still drives, but any driving at this point risks coming home on a tow truck. She started to act up at 65k. I changed the fluid at 70k and added a new pan a year ago. That got me to now, where she shifts hard or flares for a few seconds from 2-3 and 6-7. Today she got stuck in 7th gear at a stop light. Would not move, then after a bit, finally went back to 1st gear.

So instead of spending $6-7 at the dealership to fix, I went on to eBay and ordered a transmission out of a lightly damaged truck with only 5k miles on it. Picked it up for $1k + shipping and I'll install it myself.

I figured this buys me another 5 years and I can rebuild the original then. In the past, I would have hit the trade in lot before now. But ordering this truck new and it being paid off, I'm committed to her.

So here is her 5 year gift.

What was it doing before you decided to start servicing it?
It's my understanding that changing trans fluid is a great way to get a new transmission and is completely unnecessary on modern ATs from the last two decades.

 

[Stic-o]

What was it doing before you decided to start servicing it?
It's my understanding that changing trans fluid is a great way to get a new transmission and is completely unnecessary on modern ATs from the last two decades.

It was starting to shift hard and slipping. Nothing like now. But it went away after doing a fluid and filter change for about 20k, then came back with a vengeance.

 

[TJC]

It's my understanding that changing trans fluid is a great way to get a new transmission and is completely unnecessary on modern ATs from the last two decades.

Ford's position is that the trans fluid is good for life of the transmission. Technically a true statement, since no one has specifically stated what the expected life of the transmission is. It can be implied that it is 60K miles or 5 years, since this it the warranty period.

From a practical perspective, if you wish your transmission to last, change the fluid and filter at regular intervals.

or

Keep drinking the Kool-aid that auto manufacturers spout..

 

[YaBoiNewton]

Ford's position is that the trans fluid is good for life of the transmission. Technically a true statement, since no one has specifically stated what the expected life of the transmission is. It can be implied that it is 60K miles or 5 years, since this it the warranty period.

From a practical perspective, if you wish your transmission to last, change the fluid and filter at regular intervals.

or

Keep drinking the Kool-aid that auto manufacturers spout..

IDK who's pouring the kool-aid: The OEMs or the shops selling transmission fluid changes...

I'm at 86k miles with no changes and it functions fine. I guess I'll report back when it fails in 14k miles.

 

[airline tech]

Just want to put this here. The Solenoid Body Strategy needs to be updated when swapping the trans or the solenoid for the valve body. I found this helpful video.

Good VALID POINT, for those who choose to R&R themselves.

If a new transmission or a new main control was installed, the solenoid body strategy must be updated.

 

[ctechbob]

IDK who's pouring the kool-aid: The OEMs or the shops selling transmission fluid changes...

I'm at 86k miles with no changes and it functions fine. I guess I'll report back when it fails in 14k miles.

It is your truck, you are welcome to do as you wish, but that 150k interval is not set with the best interests of the truck owner in mind. Take a look through the GM 8-speed lawsuit documents that have been released and you'll catch a glimpse of the inner workings of how decisions are made by big companies in regards to setting maintenance intervals. (Hint: Will it get us to XXXXXX miles? If so, and we get there with an acceptable number of losses, then that is the number we'll use).

Keep in mind that an automatic transmission, by design, is the only oil-lubricated part of the entire vehicle that actively sheds debris into the oil (Both magnetic steel, fiber, and a small amount of aluminum). Yes, there is a filter, a pretty nice one at that, but it isn't going to catch microscopic magnetic particles in the oil. Over time those will be collected by the magnetic solenoids and can cause valve sticking issues.

You only have to look at te multiple TSB's that mention rebuilding or re-flashing the valve bodies for one reason or another in an attempt to free up the sticky valves or program around the slower valves.

Me? I intend to keep as much of this debris out of the oil as possible, and to do that you have to change the fluid to get the particles out of there that the filter won't catch.

Of course, this only solves half the problem. The drum issue is a separate issue that still might rear its head with my unit, but there's not much I can do about that.

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