Wax/Paint Protection

Jerry Caldwell

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I'm kinda' on the fence about whether to clay bar first or not. I've done it with vehicles in the past, and i know I probably should for best results. (This will be my first experience with a Ceramic product).
I would definitely clay bar. Mine had 300 miles on it when I clayed it and I couldn’t believe all the crap on it.
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Wschnitz

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I did CQuartz UK 3.0 on my ranger the week I got it, just washed it really good and paint felt really smooth so didn't feel like introducing scratches by clay baring to stay my worry.

It went on super easy and the car beads water like literal magic, washing it off is as easy as grabbing a hose and a light microfiber.
 

DBaz

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Clay bar followed by Meguiar's D301 finishing polish/wax is a great combination.

Will make the finish look almost too good to be on a truck.
 


doug910

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I see the word clay bar thrown around a lot around here and I believe there is some misconceptions for clay bar. Clay bar is quite aggressive to the paint, and if you do it too often, you'll literally strip the clear coat away. Therefore, you only clay bar when you need it.

With plenty of water on the car, you can run your finger across the paint. If you feel small bumps, you need to clay bar. If it is completely smooth and your finger doesn't catch anything, you don't need to clay bar. Once you clay bar, you probably won't have to clay bar for a LONG time after, assuming you wash your car pretty frequently.

AMMO NYC is an amazing detailer on youtube and is the best detailing teacher I know. He explains it much better than I ever will in this video:
 

DBaz

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I see the word clay bar thrown around a lot around here and I believe there is some misconceptions for clay bar. Clay bar is quite aggressive to the paint, and if you do it too often, you'll literally strip the clear coat away. Therefore, you only clay bar when you need it.

With plenty of water on the car, you can run your finger across the paint. If you feel small bumps, you need to clay bar. If it is completely smooth and your finger doesn't catch anything, you don't need to clay bar. Once you clay bar, you probably won't have to clay bar for a LONG time after, assuming you wash your car pretty frequently.

AMMO NYC is an amazing detailer on youtube and is the best detailing teacher I know. He explains it much better than I ever will in this video:
Good warning...not too often but when needed.

Takes a lonngg time, however, to go through the clear if surface dirt is removed, no pressure is applied, and you use a good lubricant and plenty of it.

Fresh off the train is one of those times claying is helpful IMO. An iron remover spray will show/dissolve the spots and is a good first step before claying.
 

Rp930

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Ol Bromy

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Did those of you who did a DIY nano ceramic coating need to let it cure in a garage for any length of time?
 

Junior Blue

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Hi folks
I'm new to claying. When can I clay bar my truck? It was built Aug.28th. I've wash him a couple of times, and he still feels bumpy. How soon should I clay it?
Thanks for any advice you can give me. By the way it's a Lightning Blue Lariat.
 

Lunchbox88

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Hi folks
I'm new to claying. When can I clay bar my truck? It was built Aug.28th. I've wash him a couple of times, and he still feels bumpy. How soon should I clay it?
Thanks for any advice you can give me. By the way it's a Lightning Blue Lariat.
The paint on your truck is already cured, you can clay bar now if you want.
 

FULLSCALE

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I agree too, I've already done my hood a few weeks ago before I had the 3M film put on and my truck is about a month older than yours.
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