Taking to shop for MPG issues; what to check?

[jblc]

Some Ranger owners have experienced premature wear on rear pads, indicating brakes are dragging. That would lead to decreased MPG.

I see, thanks. How would I check for brake drag?

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[Jason B]

I see, thanks. How would I check for brake drag?

Lift both rear wheels off the ground, put in neutral and see how easy it is to spin the wheels. Be sure to chock up the front.
Also check pads, front and rear for excessive wear. IIRC, if the rear pads are worn significantly more on the inner vs outer, may be parking brake needs to be adjusted.

 

[Rp930]

Do you still have the mesh on the air cleaner inlet? That would be the first thing to go. And can we get a picture of the “topper” And the whole truck as it sits.

 

[jblc]

Do you still have the mesh on the air cleaner inlet? That would be the first thing to go. And can we get a picture of the “topper” And the whole truck as it sits.

Yes, I have it on still. It contributes to a ~1% area loss on the inlet.
Note that I didn't have the mesh for 1.5 years (mpg was low right out of the factory), and no change in mpg after adding it. So I think it is not contributing.
And sure, I'll post a photo.

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

I think your only options are to hook up some live diagnostics to your truck with a laptop and a cable (or a handheld that does it if you happen to have access to an Autel or something like that,) Look at the data for your air and fuel. It could be a trim issue.

That said option 2 is a bad one which is throwing parts at the issue. You haven't got any codes so you'd literally have to start guessing with injectors, O2 sensors, whatever, it's a stupid way to go.

Someone on here should be able to provide you with parameters for air/fuel readings and you've got to see what's coming out of your OBD2.

 

[jblc]

Look at the data for your air and fuel. It could be a trim issue.

Thanks. Interesting idea. You mean fuel trim, right? Either way, I wouldn't be able to change anything myself, but I think you're saying that taking that data to the dealership, might be okay in place of a CEL.
I would have thought such a condition would be flagged though and cause CEL...

 

[Dr_Strangelove]

Yes, exactly - I was meaning a fuel trim issue. Its a pretty big leap but without any trouble codes all you have are the hard facts that you're at least 2-3 MPG off what a 4x4 is achieving no problem.

 

[Rp930]

Yes, I have it on still. It contributes to a ~1% area loss on the inlet.
Note that I didn't have the mesh for 1.5 years (mpg was low right out of the factory), and no change in mpg after adding it. So I think it is not contributing.
And sure, I'll post a photo.

It’s not the area loss. It’s the change in airflow. Can’t hurt to remove it for a recheck of mpg.

I would still like to see a picture of the truck with the topper

 

[jsphlynch]

Yep, already do full synthetic as mentioned. Too much fuel in oil, so I change it. Also, I only have 8k miles, so the 1 year comes up before 5k miles does

Fuel in oil is generally a problem for people with short drives, but you've specified that you're a highway driver. Have them check HPFP and injectors.

 

[airline tech]

As I posted earlier- the Fuel Trim PIDs will show what the fuel control system is doing- most important is the LTFT- if consistent above 10 positive trim would be PCM is adding fuel for a perceived lean condition.
So, this would be the first thing to look at as it would show exactly what is being delivered to the fuel rail.
If it is higher than normal- then it will take some further T/Shoot to determine the cause. The problem is that it can be numerous possibilities.
This is (1) instance where a PCM reflash may be required.
Or
Trans - relearn table
I know that MPG varies by driver and I agree with you that 17-18 on a consistent basis is low for this truck.
The Fuel Trims is the important factor for this.
For reference mine fall in line with others
19/20 winter - 20/22 summer MPG

 

[jflogerzi]

As I posted earlier- the Fuel Trim PIDs will show what the fuel control system is doing- most important is the LTFT- if consistent above 10 positive trim would be PCM is adding fuel for a perceived lean condition.
So, this would be the first thing to look at as it would show exactly what is being delivered to the fuel rail.
If it is higher than normal- then it will take some further T/Shoot to determine the cause. The problem is that it can be numerous possibilities.
This is (1) instance where a PCM reflash may be required.
Or
Trans - relearn table
I know that MPG varies by driver and I agree with you that 17-18 on a consistent basis is low for this truck.
The Fuel Trims is the important factor for this.
For reference mine fall in line with others
19/20 winter - 20/22 summer MPG

I have the same problem but when my take is 100% city driving to and from work I get 17-18 mpg. it's a 2wd

 

[Stevedbvik1]

9) "Full synthetic, change every 5 to 10k. 3k is way too soon."
Yep, already do full synthetic as mentioned. Too much fuel in oil, so I change it. Also, I only have 8k miles, so the 1 year comes up before 5k miles does

10)"My Tremor averages right at 20 in the Winter and 21 in warmer months. My driving is about 70-30 highway to city."
Yeah, that's way better than mine, and mine's non-tremor and 2wd, and 100% highway.

11) "Run better gas is what I suggest."
"Try using a top-tier midgrade gas. I never use regular...mid-grade for day to day, and premium when I tow."
"Have you considered actually putting 91 in the tank? I would do that. "
Already tried the best I can get. mpg dropped to 15-17, with much care taken to drive gently.

12) "your milage is right on target. Ford won't do anything."
How is it right on target? My mpg is far worse than anyone else's, with my 2wd even worse than tremors haha.

13) "It's an over 2 ton truck, with a turbo....it's getting better mpg than similar weight trucks from a decade ago."
Yep, but way worse mpg than the same-weight 2 ton trucks you all are running, so something is wrong. If you all got 19 highway too, then my ~19 would be normal.

14) "I do not see anything wrong with the MPG. I hover at 19 in the winter and 21 in the summer."
You're getting ~20 on the highway? Is your vehicle lifted or something else?

15) "Also what is your tire pressure that you are running and what tires do you have?"
Tire pressure kept constant at 34 front/back, per the chalk test. I adjust them seasonally. Tires are Firestone Destination At2, and my mpg didn't drop from stock (19-20 mpg) to when I switched to these new tires. I also didn't change anything when it started dropping from 19-20, to 17-18.

No leveling on the vehicle either.

#9 too much fuel in the oil?
Have you had an oil sample done? If so what % fuel?
If you have a leaky injector (s) then unburned fuel is getting into your oil. May not throw a code but worth having the dealer look at it. HP fuel pump could also be a culprit. But ONLY if your % of fuel in oil is high.

 

[JACKSMYDOG]

Want to be really happy about your MPG? . . . . Don't pay attention to it at all.

Take it off your display, don't take note of how much gas goes in the tank, don't look at the price/gallon or total cost at the pump. Fill up, pay without looking at the price, drive away.

Ignorance is bliss.

 

[Wang.S]

I'm leaning to your #9 as a contributor to your problem via leaky injectors, but it won't be the only cause.
To lose that much mileage that you claim, you're probably approaching 15% more fuel use compared to others averages, and you're oil can't be diluted that bad. or could it?
I'm suspecting you have numerous things adding up, not one smoking gun.
Its time for a mechanic to do what he's paid to do and rule out the causes of excessive fuel consumption. Fuel Injector leakage is definitely in their ball park of skills.

 

[9zero1790]

wow this thread grew fast lol

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