Taking to shop for MPG issues; what to check?

[got3fords]

Maybe you have a squirrel nest in your airbox.

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[Frenchy]

My Scan Gauge 3 has one of the parameters available for "Instant MPG" reading.
I believe most of you would be shocked to see how quickly the mpg drops with just the slightest acceleration. Once the turbo kicks in with higher boost, the mpg drops very quickly.
Going from 22-24 mpg, at lets say 45 mph on flat ground...hit the accelerator to go up to 55 mph, or too maintain speed going up a grade, can drop the mpg into the single digits, and will remain there until your back to cruising speed or throttle back.
Going from 45 mph to 55 mph, even at cruising will drop the mpg at least 10-15%. As your speed increases, the mpg will drop....obviously using more fuel to maintain higher speed.
Throw in all the variables like wind, load, road condition, tire pressure, outside air temperature, ect and it will all have an affect on mpg.
When towing my 7000 lb trailer, and climbing a grade, I have observed the mpg drop to 5-6 mpg, and less if its a serious grade.
I guess I'm lucky in that I don't concern myself with mpg or worry about whether the Ranger is getting 18 or 20 mpg. It is what it is, and I bought the Ranger for what it can do/what I need and expect it to do.

Can't speak for others but even I noticed when I had the Ranger. When I was in Tech school a while back I remember individuals with BMW's and other vehicles with the MPG gauge stating it made them reteach themselves on how to drive.

 

[Jason B]

My Scan Gauge 3 has one of the parameters available for "Instant MPG" reading.
I believe most of you would be shocked to see how quickly the mpg drops with just the slightest acceleration. Once the turbo kicks in with higher boost, the mpg drops very quickly.
Going from 22-24 mpg, at lets say 45 mph on flat ground...hit the accelerator to go up to 55 mph, or too maintain speed going up a grade, can drop the mpg into the single digits, and will remain there until your back to cruising speed or throttle back.
Going from 45 mph to 55 mph, even at cruising will drop the mpg at least 10-15%. As your speed increases, the mpg will drop....obviously using more fuel to maintain higher speed.
Using the cruise control that keeps a steady speed will obviously help, but lets be realistic....due to traffic your always either hitting brakes or speeding up depending on traffic flow....I can't even remember the last time I used the CC.
Throw in all the variables like wind, load, road condition, tire pressure, outside air temperature, ect and it will all have an affect on mpg.
When towing my 7000 lb trailer, and climbing a grade, I have observed the mpg drop to 5-6 mpg, and less if its a serious grade.
I guess I'm lucky in that I don't concern myself with mpg or worry about whether the Ranger is getting 18 or 20 mpg. It is what it is, and I bought the Ranger for what it can do/what I need and expect it to do.

Who needs Scan Guage? You can see the instant mpg on the dash under Fuel Economy.
You are correct. I even notice a significant change just going uphill with cruise control on. Steady MPG may show 23, put going uphill it drops to 15-18. Floor it and it drops to single digits.

 

[Wytchdctr]

19-20mpg on 100% highway running 65mph is terrible. Are you locking out the overdrive gears? I am in the 26mpg range under the same conditions. My overall average including cold starts, etc is 19-20. That is a mix of highway/city driving and some spirited acceleration at times. I can get better average daily mpg if I want to be bored behind the wheel.

What to check? No CEL... ehhhh.. really hard to say. Like a few other said - id change the octane and fuel station. Maybe yank the battery for.a bit to reset random stuff. Then go from there IMO. I wouldn't go near the dealer yet. Best case you waste time and they claim it is normal.

 

[grammat95]

I'm (yet again) taking my '21 XLT to the dealership, this time for MPG issues. MPG has always been really bad on this vehicle even when new, about 19-20 mpg highway (hand-calculated) at 65 mph and no wind, and stock 2wd. Adding a topper and new tires didn't change mpg.

Without any alteration since i got 19-20, the mpg has been steadily dropping to 17-18 over the past year, but more quickly over the past 6 months.

Is there any specific component I should ask them to check, relating to fuel efficiency?

Details:
(a) full-synthetic oil changes every 3k miles (8k miles total), and
(b) nominally-adjusted tire pressure as seasons change, and
(c) auto start/stop active, and
(d) 87 octane from quality station (California),

This is with gentle driving, mostly highway. I got 27 mpg on my '97 ranger, also with topper, so generally know how to drive efficiently and keep my vehicles optimally set up.


I feel like I've been taking this lemon in every two months since the month I bought it...sigh.
Welcoming any suggestions on this issue!

I agree that those numbers are not great, but there's a lot of variables that you didn't give us.

1. How much weight are you carrying in your bed?
2. What sort of grades are you encountering on the highway?
3. Have you checked all the basics? Brakes, air filter, driveline, cooling system.

I doubt your dealership is going to take you seriously, your best bet is to do some investigating yourself. There's a bunch of different possibilities for why you're getting bad gas mileage. My dad's F-150 was getting horrible has mileage for a long time after his cam-phasers were swapped by the dealer, turned out they didn't purge air out of the cooling system correctly and the fan running non-stop resulted in major fuel economy loss. 8k miles total on the truck? It has hardly been used...

 

[underwhelmed]

If you’re in Sport or tow mode you’ll run higher rpm’s and get less mpg. In conditions you described I got 26-28 mpg easy. Also, how heavy is your foot? So many different factors from driver to driver. Good luck on getting the mpg you’re looking for.

 

[jblc]

Thanks all. Many of the questions or suggestions were already answered in the original post, but addressing them all here:
1) "If you’re in Sport or tow mode you’ll run higher rpm’s and get less mpg."
I'm on normal D mode.

2) "Also, how heavy is your foot?"
Per the original post, gentle and efficient driver. I never floor it. I try to keep RPMs in the 1.5-2k range. I accelerate moderately slowly, and use cruise control to keep a constant speed (also tried without it, and mpg got worse). I stay 65-70 mph. Going 65 has minimal mpg impact over going 70, perhaps 0.5 mpg.

3) "How much weight are you carrying in your bed?"
This is a good question. It's ~100 pounds, so less than a passenger. I often drive alone for highway, so there's no passenger weight either. For the weight in the bed, the truck configuration (including weight) unchanged from when I was getting 19-20, to now (17-28).
Also, I got only 19-20 highway, when bone stock with zero bed weight and no topper, etc.

4) "What sort of grades are you encountering on the highway?"
This is round trip on gentle grades, and I've tested on perfectly flat highway with zero winds as well. No change in mpg.

5) "Have you checked all the basics? Brakes, air filter, driveline, cooling system."
Yes to air filter and fluids, and no to brakes and drive line. Not sure what to check on drive line or brakes -- how would that impact mpg?

6) "Maybe you have a squirrel nest in your airbox."
From day 1? But in all seriousness, I had a post here somewhere where I showed how I added mesh filters to all inlets -- rodents absolutely can't get in.

7) "I get 21 on average in my fx4 that has slightly bigger tires and a level and I run regular, I don't baby it but I also don't run wide open throttle when the light turns green."
OP your mpgs are within norms"
Huh? How is 17-18 in the normal range on the highway with 2wd, babied, level ground, etc? That's not in the normal range.

"A little research before taking it to the dealer will save everyone time and money."
Yeah, I've done a ton of research in general, hence raising the question. This mpg is definitely NOT normal.

8) "I run premium (mainly because i want more power baby), but at current price gaps you are better off taking the MPG hit and paying less per gallon."
I tried premium in desperation (per some of my other posts) and it dropped mpg to 15-17 highway.

(continued in next post)

 

[jsphlynch]

As a former tech I’m not sure I would even bring it in and waste my time. I would probably ask the Service Manager what he expected me to do and how I was going to get paid for it.

I'm guessing they're having the OP bring it in so they can try things like new filters, nitrogen tires, etc, which they know won't fix the "problem" but which OP will be footing the bill for and making it worth their while.

 

[Frenchy]

Thanks all. Many of the questions or suggestions were already answered in the original post, but addressing them all here:
1) "f you’re in Sport or tow mode you’ll run higher rpm’s and get less mpg." I'm on normal D mode.

2) "Also, how heavy is your foot?" Per the original post, gentle and efficient driver.

3) "How much weight are you carrying in your bed?"
Per the original post, truck configuration (including weight) unchanged from when I was getting 19-20, to now (17-28).
Also, I got only 19-20 when bone stock with zero bed weight.

4) "What sort of grades are you encountering on the highway?"
This is round trip on gentle grades, and I've tested on perfectly flat highway with zero winds as well. No change in mpg.

5) "Have you checked all the basics? Brakes, air filter, driveline, cooling system."
Yes to air filter and fluids, and no to brakes and drive line. Not sure what to check on drive line or brakes -- how would that impact mpg?

6) "Maybe you have a squirrel nest in your airbox." From day 1? But in all seriousness, I had a post here somewhere where I showed how I added mesh filters to all inlets -- rodents absolutely can't get in.

Not all questions have been answered and unless one of us gets to see your "Gentle and Efficient" driving we can't say if it is. Also if you don't reset the trip and MPG counter on the dash what do you compare to? Do you dill it up all the way or do you only put $20 in at a time(ran into that once).

Put simple there is information we don't have

 

[jblc]

Not all questions have been answered and unless one of us gets to see your "Gentle and Efficient" driving we can't say if it is. Also if you don't reset the trip and MPG counter on the dash what do you compare to? Do you dill it up all the way or do you only put $20 in at a time(ran into that once).

Put simple there is information we don't have

Yep, not all were answered in original post, hence saying "Many" And agreed there was additional info needed, so I'm trying to answer them all as best as I can

I fill up each time, never partially. I reset the trip counter and mpg every time, plus hand calculate mpg every time.

 

[AzScorpion]

Not all questions have been answered:
Put simple there is information we don't have

This! The most important question hasn't been answered yet. Does he have a damper? Why You ask? (see what I did there ?). Because look at my mileage on both my Rangers and you'll see the added benefit to having one.

 

[jblc]

9) "Full synthetic, change every 5 to 10k. 3k is way too soon."
Yep, already do full synthetic as mentioned. Too much fuel in oil, so I change it. Also, I only have 8k miles, so the 1 year comes up before 5k miles does

10)"My Tremor averages right at 20 in the Winter and 21 in warmer months. My driving is about 70-30 highway to city."
Yeah, that's way better than mine, and mine's non-tremor and 2wd, and 100% highway.

11) "Run better gas is what I suggest."
"Try using a top-tier midgrade gas. I never use regular...mid-grade for day to day, and premium when I tow."
"Have you considered actually putting 91 in the tank? I would do that. "
Already tried the best I can get. mpg dropped to 15-17, with much care taken to drive gently.

12) "your milage is right on target. Ford won't do anything."
How is it right on target? My mpg is far worse than anyone else's, with my 2wd even worse than tremors haha.

13) "It's an over 2 ton truck, with a turbo....it's getting better mpg than similar weight trucks from a decade ago."
Yep, but way worse mpg than the same-weight 2 ton trucks you all are running, so something is wrong. If you all got 19 highway too, then my ~19 would be normal.

14) "I do not see anything wrong with the MPG. I hover at 19 in the winter and 21 in the summer."
You're getting ~20 on the highway? Is your vehicle lifted or something else?

15) "Also what is your tire pressure that you are running and what tires do you have?"
Tire pressure kept constant at 34 front/back, per the chalk test. I adjust them seasonally. Tires are Firestone Destination At2, and my mpg didn't drop from stock (19-20 mpg) to when I switched to these new tires. I also didn't change anything when it started dropping from 19-20, to 17-18.

No leveling on the vehicle either.

 

[Jason B]

Thanks all. Many of the questions or suggestions were already answered in the original post, but addressing them all here:


5) "Have you checked all the basics? Brakes, air filter, driveline, cooling system."
Yes to air filter and fluids, and no to brakes and drive line. Not sure what to check on drive line or brakes -- how would that impact mpg?

Some Ranger owners have experienced premature wear on rear pads, indicating brakes are dragging. That would lead to decreased MPG.

 

[MrBusses]

Well if what you are doing hasn't changed anything then do this. Stop driving it like an old lady and let the turbo actually work. that 1-2k rpm on accel the turbo isnt doing shit its all on that little 4 cylinder to get up to speed. You don't need to floor it but 2500-3500 will let the turbo actually spool up and work get you to cruising speed faster and get to 10th gear faster. Do that for a few weeks and let the pcm and tcm learn

 

[jblc]

Well if what you are doing hasn't changed anything then do this. Stop driving it like an old lady and let the turbo actually work. that 1-2k rpm on accel the turbo isnt doing shit its all on that little 4 cylinder to get up to speed. You don't need to floor it but 2500-3500 will let the turbo actually spool up and work get you to cruising speed faster and get to 10th gear faster. Do that for a few weeks and let the pcm and tcm learn

Thanks. I tried that for a week, and definitely get worse mileage. Also: this wouldn't affect mpg on the highway where i'm always in 10th gear (and still get 17-18 mpg, formerly 19-20), so that seems to indicate that it's not my acceleration habit.
At highway speeds on cruise control, the vehicle will cruise at the same speed and the same gear, with the turbo doing what it will.

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