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CENTER JACK POINTS

Figarou

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I could find ZERO Posts about where to locate a hydraulic floor jack to lift the front and rear of the vehicle before placing it on jack stands. Sorry if there is one already. Here is where I successfully lifted the vehicle using a hydraulic jack. Yes I have read that these are not sanctioned points and could break the truck. My truck did not break, nothing bent. I lifted up and down VERY SLOWLY.
Center Jack Points.png
Front Center Jack Point.JPG
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QQFnoECAUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0oSIhmC28-sgboDMuDou_1
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Glocker

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ControlNode

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I worked in a shop for years (was 20+ years ago), not damaging a rear diff housing is likely to do with the area the lifting is applied, a small point (like a bottle jack without any material to distribute the weight) would likely lead to a crack. But if you have a larger coverage area it should be OK to lift and then set on proper jack stands at the sides. And repeat to remove the jack stands.

That said, I think the side at a time method is a better option when working at home, that is how I have to get my RS to have all 4 off the ground. But on that car I have to improvise the front jack stand location. I've yet to work on the Ranger at home enough to need to lift it.
 

Trigganometry

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Someone making a YouTube video? Time to do some sketchy shit hope I don’t get caught!? ?
 


Dr. Zaius

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This is why I love my sliders even though I've never used them to slide over rocks.

Place floor jack under slider and lift whole side of truck.
 

JACKSMYDOG

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Something to consider is the manual is written specific to the factory jack, and designed for the lowest common denominator user.

I never use the front factory recommended jack locations, until last resort. If I am lifting one wheel, I jack under the LCA, because it doesn't change the load on the vehicle. Two inches of lift gets the wheel in the air. The vehicle remains very stable, and the jack is all but impossible to kick out or displace.

Whereas jacking under the frame, require 8+ inches of lift to bottom out the suspension, before the wheel even starts to lift. Then the wheel will drag toward the center of the vehicle, because of the pivot angle and drop even more. This changes allot of load on the vehicle, and creates a higher, less stable jack. More work, and less safe.

If lifting both front wheel, I use the forward most cross member, in front of the wheels. It's where the bumper, winch, & skid plates all attach, and more than capable for a lift point.

Lifting a single rear wheel, I use the recommended locations. For both rear wheel I go under the diff.

GoT1x9W.png
 
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seanellaz

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the rear is likely right under the diff.

this is pretty sketchy, but it did get the job done.
what did you need it up on 4 axle stands for?

i personally like the round rocks as wheel chocks, and i assume the bikes at the back are for stopping it if it rolls the other way.
Right under the diff, yes. Sketchy, yes. 4 stands as needed to remove all wheel to install 1.25" billet spacers to fit 295/70R-17 tires. Bikes to camouflage the work from prying HOA spies ( : o
 
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seanellaz

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Will the diff housing crack being on a jack stand? Seems Ford should put "feet" on the frame for jack placements. I'm about to rotate the tires...
No trouble w/ diff after setting it back down. 5000 miles later.
 

Dereku

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Cant jack from the bottom of the axle but thousands of people get high centered on rocks and drive off after. Just saying....
 

Msfitoy

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Msfitoy

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Cant jack from the bottom of the axle but thousands of people get high centered on rocks and drive off after. Just saying....
I jack off from rear diff all the time....that didn't sound right eh?
 
 








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