Ford licensed TBC Install Instructions

[Edsel]

All I know is that the trailer brakes would not work unless I pushed the button.

I was under the impression it would self calibrate with or without a trailer connected, and would not require recalibration unless the controller box was moved. Does it require manual calibration initially?

That is how it is supposed to work, but this is complex electronics here.

My point was that the Ford mechanics didn't 'reprogram' it, as far as I can tell there is no way to do that, but just forced recalibration.

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[MagneticRed]

That is how it is supposed to work, but this is complex electronics here.

My point was that the Ford mechanics didn't 'reprogram' it, as far as I can tell there is no way to do that, but just forced recalibration.

Thanks, your explanation makes sense. Just hope it works next time I need it. Confidence level is not very high at this point.

 

[Edsel]

Thanks, your explanation makes sense. Just hope it works next time I need it. Confidence level is not very high at this point.

Getting one of these might instill confidence.

 

[MagneticRed]

Getting one of these might instill confidence.

My local Ford Dealership should buy one before they send someone else out without a functioning brake controller. I was astounded they had no type of TBC tester.

After paying for a "tow package" and having to buy an additional TBC, I'm in no mood to spend any more money trying to fix Ford's problems.

 

[Edsel]

My local Ford Dealership should buy one before they send someone else out without a functioning brake controller. I was astounded they had no type of TBC tester.

After paying for a "tow package" and having to buy an additional TBC, I'm in no mood to spend any more money trying to fix Ford's problems.

Could not agree more. I have been 'with this' issue since I bought my Ranger last year and the cluelessness of the Ford dealerships about the TBC boggles the mind. You are clearly on your own.

 

[Jerry Caldwell]

My local Ford Dealership should buy one before they send someone else out without a functioning brake controller. I was astounded they had no type of TBC tester.

After paying for a "tow package" and having to buy an additional TBC, I'm in no mood to spend any more money trying to fix Ford's problems.

If you look at the installation instructions it shows how to check the system and make sure it works. It involves a simple light and alligator clips to connect it to your 7 pin plug. It completes the circuits and you will see the blue led come on and you will be able to adjust the intensity while the little light bulb goes from dim to bright.

 

[Edsel]

If you look at the installation instructions it shows how to check the system and make sure it works. It involves a simple light and alligator clips to connect it to your 7 pin plug. It completes the circuits and you will see the blue led come on and you will be able to adjust the intensity while the little light bulb goes from dim to bright.

That is NOT in the Ford 'authorized' version. That manual does mention 'test light', but doesn't say a thing beyond using it in the set up and calibration table. The test light is described in the Redarc manual, but apparently they forgot to include it with the Ford retrofit documentation:

Immediately After Installation (To be done by a qualified Auto-Electrician)​

Test the installation/vehicle wiring. Testing your vehicle wiring is best done by connecting a test light (Max 21W filament globe) to the brake output, pushing the manual override and having someone check that the vehicle brake lights and the test lamp both light up.​

 

[Jerry Caldwell]

That is NOT in the Ford 'authorized' version. That manual does mention 'test light', but doesn't say a thing beyond using it in the set up and calibration table. The test light is described in the Redarc manual, but apparently they forgot to include it with the Ford retrofit documentation:

Immediately After Installation (To be done by a qualified Auto-Electrician)​

Test the installation/vehicle wiring. Testing your vehicle wiring is best done by connecting a test light (Max 21W filament globe) to the brake output, pushing the manual override and having someone check that the vehicle brake lights and the test lamp both light up.​

I think you are correct. I installed both on our first Ranger.

 

[PonyXpress]

Thanks for posting the instructions. You're right, they do suck, as most of their instructions do.

I also agree with all of the comments here. Ford really screwed up by not having a 5th wire down in the kick panel that already went to the third brake light.

I did buy the vkb3z-2c006-a, but it isn't here yet. A video showing how to install the third brake light wire would be awesome

 

[VainoN]

I too am working thru the installation of the FORD OEM version of the Redarc brake controller. The logic of having to go TO the END of the wiring for the Central High Mount Stop Light, instead of at the sources at the BCM has me confused. I looked at the Service Manual at the circuit is distinct for the CHMSL but it also show it starting at the BCM. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this circuit? It there anything between the actual third brake light and the BCM? Is it the same color wire at the BCM as it is at the CHMSL? My goal is simply to find a tap point closer to the BCM and avoid removing the headliner, etc.

Any one have this section wiring diagram?

 

[WLFPIR8]

I tore down the inline module that comes with the Ford version of the kit. I put my notes below from a post i made on FB...

---------------

Trailer Brake Controller Kit (Official) info --

For those interested, I got one of the ford official RedArc kits. I already have one, but they don't sell the "brake light interface" part of it standalone. Luckily my dad needed a brake controller for his 2014 Pilot, so I'll give him mine, and install the full official kit in the Ranger this weekend.

Otherwise, I figured I'd take a detailed look at it since I was curious as to how they built the inline brake light interface. Honestly the whole system seems needlessly complicated, but at the same time, the only option since someone at Ford obviously forgot to figure this out before production.

Essentially what the kit does, is instead of taking the BRAKE signal directly from the pedal (which is what the current "Red Wire" out of the 4 does) it pulls the "Brake Activation" signal directly from the rear HRMBL (high rear mount brake light).

Why does it pull from that one? Well, it appears that it is the easiest way to get that signal, without going outside the cabin, and without spending more $$$ on building a CANBUS interface to read the activation.

What's inside the little box that connects between the brake light harness and the brake controller?
I figured it woudl either be a simple Opto Isolator or transitor setup for the signal. But it turns out it's a bit more complicated than I thought. They are using a "Digital Switch" N-Channel Mosfet chip and another Power Driver chip to basically read the signal from the light, and switch the "brake" input into the RedArc. So with this setup, the original "Brake Input" wire under the dash is not used, as that only took its signal from the brake pedal directly, and thus wouldn't know whne the vehicle automatically aplied the brakes.

The harness literally goes in-line with the rear brake light, just to get the signal.

 

[PonyXpress]

Thanks for the additional information, it helps. I agree Ford really screwed up on this one. I just hope they learn from this and don't repeat it in future trucks.

I have the official Ford kit too, but I haven't installed it yet. I'm not looking forward to running the wire to the third brake light, so I procrastinate... That and i haven't figured out which brand of trailer to buy yet, so nothing to pull yet.

 

[VainoN]

I tore down the inline module that comes with the Ford version of the kit. I put my notes below from a post i made on FB...

---------------

Trailer Brake Controller Kit (Official) info --

For those interested, I got one of the ford official RedArc kits. I already have one, but they don't sell the "brake light interface" part of it standalone. Luckily my dad needed a brake controller for his 2014 Pilot, so I'll give him mine, and install the full official kit in the Ranger this weekend.

Otherwise, I figured I'd take a detailed look at it since I was curious as to how they built the inline brake light interface. Honestly the whole system seems needlessly complicated, but at the same time, the only option since someone at Ford obviously forgot to figure this out before production.

Essentially what the kit does, is instead of taking the BRAKE signal directly from the pedal (which is what the current "Red Wire" out of the 4 does) it pulls the "Brake Activation" signal directly from the rear HRMBL (high rear mount brake light).

Why does it pull from that one? Well, it appears that it is the easiest way to get that signal, without going outside the cabin, and without spending more $$$ on building a CANBUS interface to read the activation.

What's inside the little box that connects between the brake light harness and the brake controller?
I figured it woudl either be a simple Opto Isolator or transitor setup for the signal. But it turns out it's a bit more complicated than I thought. They are using a "Digital Switch" N-Channel Mosfet chip and another Power Driver chip to basically read the signal from the light, and switch the "brake" input into the RedArc. So with this setup, the original "Brake Input" wire under the dash is not used, as that only took its signal from the brake pedal directly, and thus wouldn't know whne the vehicle automatically aplied the brakes.

The harness literally goes in-line with the rear brake light, just to get the signal.

Thank you for sharing. I assumed there was some logic to using the CHMSL wiring, but what I'm missing is why we need to tap that wire at the end of the wiring loom at the actual light instead of closer to the BCM. There must be eight feet of wire been the CHMSL and the BCM. I'm not looking to leverage the factory tow wiring just looking to find a shorter path to attach the lumens box. The wire has to come from somewhere.
Likely Ford/Redarc went for the place where the wire was already exposed and not likely to be mistaken for the wrong wire, I get that. My engineering curiosity just is looking for a better path. ?

 

[VAMike]

Thank you for sharing. I assumed there was some logic to using the CHMSL wiring, but what I'm missing is why we need to tap that wire at the end of the wiring loom at the actual light instead of closer to the BCM.

Because ford doesn't trust dealer mechanics to cut into the wiring loom. Given all the horror stories we've seen, that seems like the correct decision.

 

[LurchOR]

I too am working thru the installation of the FORD OEM version of the Redarc brake controller. The logic of having to go TO the END of the wiring for the Central High Mount Stop Light, instead of at the sources at the BCM has me confused. I looked at the Service Manual at the circuit is distinct for the CHMSL but it also show it starting at the BCM. Does anyone have the wiring diagram for this circuit? It there anything between the actual third brake light and the BCM? Is it the same color wire at the BCM as it is at the CHMSL? My goal is simply to find a tap point closer to the BCM and avoid removing the headliner, etc.

Any one have this section wiring diagram?

I think this post is what you're looking for: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-install-instructions.5971/page-2#post-105637
He also posts a link to the Ford resource for this information.

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