Ford licensed TBC Install Instructions

VAMike

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I just finished this install, what a pain in the rear!!
I still have to connect to a trailer to test it but they def need to come up with a better solution...
This will be it for this generation. I'm sure the next gen will have something better integrated.
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Edsel

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I just finished this install, what a pain in the rear!!
I still have to connect to a trailer to test it but they def need to come up with a better solution...
Yep. The solution is going to be "included with trailer package"!
 
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Yep. The solution is going to be "included with trailer package"!
Did you install the controller? How was it? Did you have a problem with the headliner or interior panels. Thanks for the info BTW. I still cannot fin the wires that are terminated under the dash...
 

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Did you install the controller? How was it? Did you have a problem with the headliner or interior panels. Thanks for the info BTW. I still cannot fin the wires that are terminated under the dash...
Installed it months ago. The biggest issue was wifey ("Your going to tear into your new truck?! Are you out of your mind?!). I waited until she went shopping, that gave me a solid four hours to complete it.

The wires under the dash are not easy to find, keep looking, they are there.

Headliner and panels were surprisingly easy. Headliner is very 'malleable', you can really bend it and not get a crease.

I put the control knob on the center console near the TM button/knob. Looks like it has always been there.

Read through the other posts on Ranger5G. Lots of photos, horror and success stories.
 


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Wires are absolutely not there. Still pondering
OK, do you have the tow package? This would be the hitch receiver along with the trailer electrical connectors in the bumper. If not, then no, you won't have the wires.

If you have the package, hie to your nearest Ford dealership and ask them to show you the wires. If the wires aren't there, demand warranty repair.
 

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Wires are absolutely not there. Still pondering
Mine were not either, I ended up having to Pull 12V from the battery and running a 10awg output wire from the controller all the way back to the trailer harness.

Just a little info on the Ford/RedArc Brake controller. So I tried using the supplied inline connectors but I was having no luck, my CHMSL wasn't working and neither was my bed light.

So after some irritated prodding around I discovered that the A3 pigtail terminates down to one single wire,(pink/white) The other two wires simple bridge from the two OE connectors. The only wire going back to the main harness is the pink/white wire, which is of course the CHMSL positive lead.

So what I did was, since I had already ran wire all the way back to the light, I simple cut off the connectors and spliced into the CHMSL positive lead on the factory pigtail.

So the long and short of it, the Ford TBC has 4 leads;
-Ground
-12V Battery
-Trailer brake output
-Brake lamp 12V+

If I were doing this again I would just splice the wire under the dash. I'm pretty convinced that the only reason Ford went this route was because the CHMSL was the closet and easiest place to create an inline connector to pull a stop lamp +12v from.

20200902_090605.jpg
 

Edsel

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I'm pretty convinced that the only reason Ford went this route was because the CHMSL was the closet and easiest place to create an inline connector to pull a stop lamp +12v from.
I stated this myslef a few months ago, but in a different way. Ford charged Lumen with producing an installation that would not disturb the main fuse block in any way and use inline plugs (read: no soldering or cutting wires). So, they went all the way back to the CHMSL. By doing this, all of the auto braking features are preserved and you have a 'factory authorized' install come warranty-issues time.
 

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I had the authorized Ford Tow Pro Elite/Lumens installed a couple of week ago by my local dealership. With Fordpass points and discount coupon it cost me less than $300 installed. So far so good., but without a trailer, I had no way to test it. I believe I was either the first or second customer to ever have it installed at this dealership....

The next week I rented a pop-up camper (about 2,500 lbs) and took the family on a camping trip to Southern Utah. After I got underway, I noticed my trailer brakes weren't working. The little knob just flashed blue and green - no red. I found that I could get the trailer brakes to work if I pushed the manual over-ride. This is how I managed to brake the trailer for the nearly 600 mile round trip. Scary, but manageable.

Having read several post about people having similar issues, I checked to see if the CHMSL light was working - it was. All the trailer brakes, turn signals, etc. were working as well.

I took it back to the dealership when I returned. After about a hour and half, the service tech tells me that they checked all the wiring and the controller should be working. I asked had they used a trailer brake tester or an actual trailer to test it? No, but that's a great idea they said.

They hooked it up to a trailer and sure enough no brakes - but not to worry, they fixed it. The service tech told me they had to reprogram it, and once they did it no longer flashed blue and green, and that it turned red when applying the brakes, and that the trailer brakes were working.

Now I didn't see any of what the service tech described, and have no trailer to test with. Before I rent another trailer (most likely a larger one), has anyone else had this problem? if so, what "programming" should I have to do in the future should it not work?

Thanks
 

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I had the authorized Ford Tow Pro Elite/Lumens installed a couple of week ago by my local dealership. With Fordpass points and discount coupon it cost me less than $300 installed. So far so good., but without a trailer, I had no way to test it. I believe I was either the first or second customer to ever have it installed at this dealership....

The next week I rented a pop-up camper (about 2,500 lbs) and took the family on a camping trip to Southern Utah. After I got underway, I noticed my trailer brakes weren't working. The little knob just flashed blue and green - no red. I found that I could get the trailer brakes to work if I pushed the manual over-ride. This is how I managed to brake the trailer for the nearly 600 mile round trip. Scary, but manageable.

Having read several post about people having similar issues, I checked to see if the CHMSL light was working - it was. All the trailer brakes, turn signals, etc. were working as well.

I took it back to the dealership when I returned. After about a hour and half, the service tech tells me that they checked all the wiring and the controller should be working. I asked had they used a trailer brake tester or an actual trailer to test it? No, but that's a great idea they said.

They hooked it up to a trailer and sure enough no brakes - but not to worry, they fixed it. The service tech told me they had to reprogram it, and once they did it no longer flashed blue and green, and that it turned red when applying the brakes, and that the trailer brakes were working.

Now I didn't see any of what the service tech described, and have no trailer to test with. Before I rent another trailer (most likely a larger one), has anyone else had this problem? if so, what "programming" should I have to do in the future should it not work?

Thanks
This is also my concern. Mine was installed a few weeks ago and I haven't used it yet. I'd hate to shell out another $180 for a TBC tester.
 

Edsel

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They hooked it up to a trailer and sure enough no brakes - but not to worry, they fixed it. The service tech told me they had to reprogram it, and once they did it no longer flashed blue and green, and that it turned red when applying the brakes, and that the trailer brakes were working.
They most likely did not reprogram it, but re-calibrated. The intructions are in the manual.
 

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They most likely did not reprogram it, but re-calibrated. The intructions are in the manual.
I thought it re-calibrated automatically in automatic mode. I thought the green blue flashing was the calibration. The OP said it didn't reset for the whole trip. That tells me it was in manual if that was the case. Correct me if I'm wrong but when you push the button it will turn blue in auto and it will turn green in manual.
 

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I thought it re-calibrated automatically in automatic mode. I thought the green blue flashing was the calibration. The OP said it didn't reset for the whole trip. That tells me it was in manual if that was the case. Correct me if I'm wrong but when you push the button it will turn blue in auto and it will turn green in manual.
See attached.
 

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MagneticRed

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See attached.
All I know is that the trailer brakes would not work unless I pushed the button.

I was under the impression it would self calibrate with or without a trailer connected, and would not require recalibration unless the controller box was moved. Does it require manual calibration initially?
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