bentroia
Well-Known Member
Is the Ford unit, installed by a dealer, my best choice?I don't understand the question. Given what you've presented, why would you not go with a dealer installed OEM TBC?
Thanks!
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Is the Ford unit, installed by a dealer, my best choice?I don't understand the question. Given what you've presented, why would you not go with a dealer installed OEM TBC?
Yes. Self install is not for the faint at heart. The RedArc controller is a great system too. Also, Id' imagine that certain "warranty" items might have issues being covered if you don't use the OEM version.Your wisdom.please.. I read this entire string..
In my 2021 lariat with tow package.. Is getting the Ford controller and having the dealer install my best choice for a factory like and full function end result?
I dont want to do it myself and really prefer to keep the new Tremor OEM unless there is a significant benefit not to.
Your learning and advice is appreciated.
Just tell them to throw the install in as a condition of the sale and see what they say. They might even throw the whole thing in if they are making good money on the sale. It's "OEM" only in that it ads a not OEM looking knob in an inconvenient spot. I actually much prefer my P3 because it comes out without removing anything.Your wisdom.please.. I read this entire string..
In my 2021 lariat with tow package.. Is getting the Ford controller and having the dealer install my best choice for a factory like and full function end result?
I dont want to do it myself and really prefer to keep the new Tremor OEM unless there is a significant benefit not to.
Your learning and advice is appreciated.
It's OEM because it's the only in-cab solution that I'm aware of that ties into the brake light rather than the brake pedal, using an OEM-specified module in addition to the TBC.It's "OEM" only in that it ads a not OEM looking knob in an inconvenient spot. I actually much prefer my P3 because it comes out without removing anything.
Yes, mostly true... It's ALSO a newer version of the controller itself. I bought the RedArc last year, installed it and then moved that one to my dads vehicle and have the official Ford one for mine. The controller is one that is slightly different than what's on RedArcs website and is a newer "firmware version". So, I decided to just use the whole kit in order to have the best compatibility. I think I made a post earlier about the differences and pics. More info and teardown of the OEM module Ford licensed TBC Install Instructions | Page 6 | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.comIt's OEM because it's the only in-cab solution that I'm aware of that ties into the brake light rather than the brake pedal, using an OEM-specified module in addition to the TBC.
I don't know that there's any reason you couldn't run the output of the OEM module into any TBC, but you can't get it without buying the redarc so I don't think anyone has even tried.Yes, mostly true... It's ALSO a newer version of the controller itself. I bought the RedArc last year, installed it and then moved that one to my dads vehicle and have the official Ford one for mine. The controller is one that is slightly different than what's on RedArcs website and is a newer "firmware version". So, I decided to just use the whole kit in order to have the best compatibility. I think I made a post earlier about the differences and pics. Lemme see if I can find it.
The funny part is none of the aftermarket options have picked it up yet and built a module that taps the brake light under the dash and turns the PWM brake signal into a steady signal. a $.13 8083 microcontroller could to that with about 7 lines of code and 1 transistor. (which is probably what is inside fords grey box that happens to have plugs instead of taps.)It's OEM because it's the only in-cab solution that I'm aware of that ties into the brake light rather than the brake pedal, using an OEM-specified module in addition to the TBC.
I'd say that a lot of the aftermarket companies don't want to deal with the "risk" of that. And it's a pretty small market segment. idk, a lot of variables here. I've been happy with the old RedArc at least.The funny part is none of the aftermarket options have picked it up yet and built a module that taps the brake light under the dash and turns the PWM brake signal into a steady signal. a $.13 8083 microcontroller could to that with about 7 lines of code and 1 transistor. (which is probably what is inside fords grey box that happens to have plugs instead of taps.)
Ford certainly isn't the only manufacturer that has AEB and has towing vehicles though. I would guess they are all doing it with basically the same setup.I'd say that a lot of the aftermarket companies don't want to deal with the "risk" of that. And it's a pretty small market segment. idk, a lot of variables here. I've been happy with the old RedArc at least.
maybe the others thought of this before they started production and simply have the system output the proper signal to the wire under the dash. ford clearly did this as an afterthought because they f'd up, not because it was ideal.Ford certainly isn't the only manufacturer that has AEB and has towing vehicles though. I would guess they are all doing it with basically the same setup.
Short answer: YES. It is a nice Redarc trailer brake controller with a module to work with your automated braking system.Is the Ford unit, installed by a dealer, my best choice?
Thanks!
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-install-instructions.5971/page-2#post-105637can someone tell me where to find the signal under the dash for the rear brake light, I'll build a module that does exactly the same thing and uses the same wires under the dash.
Lets talk about this, it says in your picture that the Lariat is non-PWM whereas the XLT is PWM. Is yours a lariat? If so, I may still build a box that takes any PWM signal and closes a solid state relay to +12V.https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...-install-instructions.5971/page-2#post-105637
I'm just using this wire and a diode. Two wires are feeding my Redarc, the "right" brake signal wire and my diode wire. I'm not using that crazy add-on module.
Prob need a capacitor on the switched side to smooth the PWM as well.Lets talk about this, it says in your picture that the Lariat is non-PWM whereas the XLT is PWM. Is yours a lariat? If so, I may still build a box that takes any PWM signal and closes a solid state relay to +12V.
I'll also tie it in with the physical brake signal so there's no mistake when the brakes are pushed.