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Why Hub Centric Rings?

WOADKIL

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As an older mechanical engineer and amateur machinist (worked thru college in a shop), there is NOTHING better to center your rims than SIX tapered lug nuts torqued into six tapered holes. And if you toleranced the the wheel ID to the hub OD to a tight fit getting the wheel on and off would be a pain.
And I like the note that Discount tire states: Don’t carry any load and not required….

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Rp930

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As an older mechanical engineer and amateur machinist (worked thru college in a shop), there is NOTHING better to center your rims than SIX tapered lug nuts torqued into six tapered holes. And if you toleranced the the wheel ID to the hub OD to a tight fit getting the wheel on and off would be a pain.
And I like the note that Dscount tire states: Don’t carry any load and not required….

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Whatever makes you happy.
 

I_smell_like_diesel

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I ran rings of my aftermarket alloys for added peace of mind. Also made it much easier to mount the wheels onto the vehicle, when performing maintenance. The studs are quite a bit more centered with the wheel bore resting on the ring. At the end of the day.... your money, your vehicle, your choice.
 


DukeCanBuildit

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Msfitoy

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As an older mechanical engineer and amateur machinist (worked thru college in a shop), there is NOTHING better to center your rims than SIX tapered lug nuts torqued into six tapered holes. And if you toleranced the the wheel ID to the hub OD to a tight fit getting the wheel on and off would be a pain.
And I like the note that Discount tire states: Don’t carry any load and not required….

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That's what I've been saying...77,000+ miles with zero issues...

I have a set of hub centric adapters that I decided not to use because...they're PLASTIC... ? ? ?
 

Big Blue

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Not necessary on factory rims right?
Correct, factory rims are hub centric already. Only on aftermarket rims with larger center hole. Factory rims on almost any vehicle are hub centric, guarantees the rims are centered and takes the load off the studs and nuts.
 

Msfitoy

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just remember, even though some rings are plastic....the only purpose is to hold the wheel until the studs are torqued.
they dont need to offer any structural integrity. alignment purpose only.

could form them out of rock candy if you wanted and they melt away first time you wash it
the whole point is to get that wheel centered and true
Correct...6 lugs will provide necessary lug centricity...provided that it is torqued down correctly...off the ground, sequentially a little at a time...it has worked for me in the last 20+ times I've removed/rotated my wheels...
 

Mirage775

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I wanted to add to this, since I finally got my suspension/new wheels on last night. My Method Racing 605's came with the hubcentric rings, but on the rear axle of my '21, the rings will not even slid over the axle ends, so I just left them off... I assume there's no difference between the 2wd and 4wd axles?

I'm not running spacers on my truck.

I started working on the fronts late last night, but ran out of muscle/energy.... I'm old :( I didn't try a ring on the front hubs, but they might fit on the fronts.

I too, always thought that with a proper torque pattern, that the wheels aligned themselves? I've been told that for 30 years...

EDIT: Confirmed that the front hub is exactly like the rear axle and these hubcentric rings do not fit my truck, they do fit the MRW wheels though. I'll measure the bore size on my stock wheels later today.

EDIT again: I used my calipers and checked the widths on the rings and the ID is 78mm, that's why the damn things don't fit over my hubs, LOL! I'll order some new one today. Might not need them, but these new wheels/tires are much bigger/heavier than my OEM ones.
 
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JACKSMYDOG

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Although I agree it's arguable whether they are required for all builds and uses, hub-centric can definitely reduce load on your lug bolts, lug nuts, and rims with various driving conditions. Static load, or road only DD, I may consider and over-sized bore rim, off roading I only mount hubcentric rims on my trucks.
 

gwhalin

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I just assumed made easier to mount but definitely doesn’t mitigate the need for properly torquing the lug nuts little bit at a time in a star pattern. Also always heard plastic was better as the ring carries no load and less likely to have any metal on metal seizing issues.
 

Fitzmotor

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Where it can become a issue is when some tire changing hack slaps the wheel on, lets it hang on the studs, then guns it down, so the tapered seats on the wheel become worn off center. That first lug nut has to pick up the whole weight of the wheel, especially if he gets one simi tight then guns down the rest, forcing the lug nuts to shift the wheel to center.

I have seen non hubcentric wheels have lug nuts with lumpy aluminum embedded in the seat area from improper torquing procedures, they couldn't center for nothing.
If you can, in my opinion, always run centering rings, or make sure a hack doesn't just gun them down.
 

Msfitoy

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Where it can become a issue is when some tire changing hack slaps the wheel on, lets it hang on the studs, then guns it down, so the tapered seats on the wheel become worn off center. That first lug nut has to pick up the whole weight of the wheel, especially if he gets one simi tight then guns down the rest, forcing the lug nuts to shift the wheel to center.

I have seen non hubcentric wheels have lug nuts with lumpy aluminum embedded in the seat area from improper torquing procedures, they couldn't center for nothing.
If you can, in my opinion, always run centering rings, or make sure a hack doesn't just gun them down.
Totally agree on this...I've never let anyone mount my wheels on any of my toys...always take them off to have new tires mounted or patched...then bolt them on myself at home...
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