Transmission Replaced

[Wytchdctr]

I'm certainly thinking of taking mine in to see what they'll do if anything now that there is a TSB. Will have to unflash my Livernois tune first though. Mine has a big delay on the 3-4 shift when cold, and sometimes it will randomly hang between gears. It's got a year to come apart if it's going to go since that's when the power train warranty ends.

My LMS tuned truck has that same delay on 3-4 when super "cold".. when I see it - typically the first shift in the morning. Once it has any heat in it beyond the small bit of idle I do before I drive off nice and easy; never see that weird 3-4 shift again.

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[JoeDop1]

Thanks for this insight and link to the TSB. Scrappy's only got 22k with 3 months left on the original warranty. I purchased an extended 7yr/80k warranty. Hoping I never have to use it. But, it's good peace of mind.

 

[Awwphooey]

It really depends on how these units are actually failing. I can think of 2 possible failure modes here.

#1. Fluid gets dirty leading to slow response of the system pressure regulator valve. Loss of pressure control causes pressure spikes and abnormal wear on clutches and internal parts which turns in to the reported shredded bits inside the transmission.

#2. CDF drum failure documented by the YouTubers where the CDF drum fails and lets pressure go where it's not supposed to and, same as number 1, broken parts in the transmission.

For case #1, changing the fluid more often could definitely help. For case #2, I don't think it would make a difference.

I had mine changed out at 30K on the dot. It was clean.

 

[9zero1790]

No idea! The dealer offered to file a claim stating that they may kick in a portion of the cost or all of it. I do feel rather blessed. But at the same time annoyed that it went out in the first place

buy a lotto ticket while luck is with you!

 

[Jason B]

All this has me thinking I might avoid a tune on mine since i did get the extended warranty, despite the sales guy saying that a tune shouldn't effect things (yeah right). I love my truck but its really frustrating knowing that the transmission is the weakest link... I might consider trading mine in next year to get something that I don't have to stress about... Annoyingly that might be a Toyota given the prices of F-150's are just freaking stupid these days... But who knows, I might just accept that a built transmission might be in my future too.

If you find such an imaginary vehicle, please let us know what wood elf or genie in a bottle sold it to you. Surely that wouldn't be a Toyota. Browse their forum to read about all the 'defects' with that vehicle.

In my lowly opinion, most people with 'hard shifts, engine lugging, gear searching' can alleviate most of that with driving in tow mode or sport mode. Switching on tow mode is the first thing I do after starting. It keeps the engine in a slightly higher RPM when shifting and engine doesn't bog from being in 7th gear at 40 mph. It also has the benefit of disabling ASS.

 

[ctechbob]

It really depends on how these units are actually failing. I can think of 2 possible failure modes here.

#1. Fluid gets dirty leading to slow response of the system pressure regulator valve. Loss of pressure control causes pressure spikes and abnormal wear on clutches and internal parts which turns in to the reported shredded bits inside the transmission.

#2. CDF drum failure documented by the YouTubers where the CDF drum fails and lets pressure go where it's not supposed to and, same as number 1, broken parts in the transmission.

For case #1, changing the fluid more often could definitely help. For case #2, I don't think it would make a difference.

Yea, nothing is going to stop a hard part problem, but my main goal is to keep contaminents off of and out of the solenoid pack/sealing rings. Want to keep as much wear as possible off of any of the sealing surfaces so that it doesn't start bypassing pressure when it shouldn't.

 

[RangerPNW]

If you find such an imaginary vehicle, please let us know what wood elf or genie in a bottle sold it to you. Surely that wouldn't be a Toyota. Browse their forum to read about all the 'defects' with that vehicle.

You're not wrong, but at least the price of entry on the Toyota's, specifically the Tundra, looks to be better than the F-150's right now... But I think I'll stick with the Ranger, run it like i want, and deal with whatever issues come up.

 

[BettaRanga]

There seems to be issues with these 10 speed autos. In Australia there was a recall on brand new trucks with front pump failure, some transmissions literally failing just after driving off the dealer lot or within a couple of months. Many people report rough shifts, slipping or missed shifts as well. Perhaps Ford should have just licenced the ZF 8 speed like they did with the ZF 6 speed for the 6R80 box. instead of trying to design a new one. Does the GM version have the same issues?

I found this article below. I must say that my 22 5.3L V-8 / 10-speed shifts super smooth compared to my Ranger.

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2023/0...ilverado-poor-transmission-shift-quality/amp/

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Maybe it’s all that extra weight (tie-downs, engine covers, glovebox dampers, and such).

I kid but when I was heading back up to the cottage yesterday, I pulled out to pass a slower vehicle, just as I had done a couple of times earlier in the drive, and nothin, wouldn’t downshift or accelerate, just bogged down and sat there. Tucked back into my lane, pressed the shifter button to bring the gears up on the display so I could keep an eye on things. All seemed fine and a few minutes later, I tried it again - took off like a shot and rocketed past the slow car - just like every other time.

I’m hoping it was an anomaly, but these stories have me watching for warning signs and thanking my stars I have an extended warranty.

So, here’s an update to this post….

I figured out what happened here and it wasn’t my transmission but an old habit from driving a stick for too many years - right hand is always on the shifter. Let me explain…

In “D” (Drive) when you press the “+” button on the side of the shifter, it displays the gears on the cluster, in a column, and you can cancel out individual gears by pressing “-“.

When in “S” mode, if you press the “+” or “-“ button on the side of the shifter, it displays your current gear in red text on the cluster (in a different place than above) and allows you to manually shift gears by pressing “+” or “-“. It is known as SelectShift in the manual.

I almost always drive in “S” mode and with my hand on the shifter, I must have pressed the “+” or “-“ button but was too focused on finding the opportunity to pass to notice I was in 10th gear, slowed to the speed of the car in front of me, then mashed the pedal while still in 10th and at a much lower RPM. Of course it bogged down with no downshift. Of course it worked fine later after I moved it to Drive. ?‍

So, no transmission woes (yet) but it doesn’t mean these posts don’t make me nervous.

 

[RedlandRanger]

So, here’s an update to this post….

I figured out what happened here and it wasn’t my transmission but an old habit from driving a stick for too many years - right hand is always on the shifter. Let me explain…

In “D” (Drive) when you press the “+” button on the side of the shifter, it displays the gears on the cluster, in a column, and you can cancel out individual gears by pressing “-“.

When in “S” mode, if you press the “+” or “-“ button on the side of the shifter, it displays your current gear in red text on the cluster (in a different place than above) and allows you to manually shift gears by pressing “+” or “-“. It is known as SelectShift in the manual.

I almost always drive in “S” mode and with my hand on the shifter, I must have pressed the “+” or “-“ button but was too focused on finding the opportunity to pass to notice I was in 10th gear, slowed to the speed of the car in front of me, then mashed the pedal while still in 10th and at a much lower RPM. Of course it bogged down with no downshift. Of course it worked fine later after I moved it to Drive. ?‍

So, no transmission woes (yet) but it doesn’t mean these posts don’t make me nervous.

Early on with my truck, when I was experimenting with Sport mode I had a bad experience with the +/- button in Sport mode - I kind of think it is a weird behavior - I revved up my truck pretty high wondering why it wouldn't shift when all I really wanted was to see what gear I was in.

Glad yours was due to this weird behavior. Once I understood how it worked, I haven't had it happen again thank goodness.....

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Early on with my truck, when I was experimenting with Sport mode I had a bad experience with the +/- button in Sport mode - I kind of think it is a weird behavior - I revved up my truck pretty high wondering why it wouldn't shift when all I really wanted was to see what gear I was in.

Glad yours was due to this weird behavior. Once I understood how it worked, I haven't had it happen again thank goodness.....

I had that happen in my Passat. Like the Ranger transmission, it will automatically shift down to first if you stop and don’t press “-“, but you sure as heck better hit “+” when accelerating - it won’t shift for you and you’ll be redlining it real quick.

I’m glad you didn’t blow anything up!

 

[RedlandRanger]

I had that happen in my Passat. Like the Ranger transmission, it will automatically shift down to first if you stop and don’t press “-“, but you sure as heck better hit “+” when accelerating - it won’t shift for you and you’ll be redlining it real quick.

I’m glad you didn’t blow anything up!

Me too!

I still find it to be an odd behavior - it is TOTALLY different than in drive. Seems like that is a mode you should be able to enable, not have it behave that way be default. The thing that threw me for a loop is that if you just put it in sport mode and don't touch +/- it works the same, but if you are in sport +/- works WAY different. That is what I find odd.

 

[9zero1790]

So, here’s an update to this post….

I figured out what happened here and it wasn’t my transmission but an old habit from driving a stick for too many years - right hand is always on the shifter. Let me explain…

In “D” (Drive) when you press the “+” button on the side of the shifter, it displays the gears on the cluster, in a column, and you can cancel out individual gears by pressing “-“.

When in “S” mode, if you press the “+” or “-“ button on the side of the shifter, it displays your current gear in red text on the cluster (in a different place than above) and allows you to manually shift gears by pressing “+” or “-“. It is known as SelectShift in the manual.

I almost always drive in “S” mode and with my hand on the shifter, I must have pressed the “+” or “-“ button but was too focused on finding the opportunity to pass to notice I was in 10th gear, slowed to the speed of the car in front of me, then mashed the pedal while still in 10th and at a much lower RPM. Of course it bogged down with no downshift. Of course it worked fine later after I moved it to Drive. ?‍

So, no transmission woes (yet) but it doesn’t mean these posts don’t make me nervous.

glad it was not a transmission going poof!!

 

[Y2Dip84]

I have a 2020 with 26k that has begun to experience weird shifts, slipping, and surging. Replaced the sensor as some threads have suggested but it didn’t fox the problem. My warranty runs out in July…I wonder if it’s worth it to bring it in? Currently, I am not getting any codes and aside from driving it, I doubt the dealership would take it for a test drive. Thought?

 

[Justyn63]

currently waiting on a new valve body for mine, took it in due to hard shifts and just overall weird ass 10r80 things lol. even with a the ford tune it shifts like crap. Trans tech drove it one time and said yep looks like were replacing the valve body, along with new fluid and filter. good excuse to go ahead and order the deep trans pan i guess.

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