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Transmission Fluid At 40k Miles

TJC

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Cup of water I drank this morning
1699826423680.png

VS cup of Pee I vacated tonight
1699826512289.png


Its all relative until we see an actual chemical analysis of what's going on with it.
For all we know, the darkness is friction disk material. My wheels take on a dusty rusty appearance days after washing because the brake lining wears. Doesn't mean our brakes are toast.

I look forward to Stic-o posting his results. It will tip the scales one way or another for me.
Take a chemical analysis of your cup of water vs your pee. I'll bet you see a significant difference in the chemical composition. Your body is flushing it for a reason....getting rid of waste.

Do your transmission a favor and get rid of the waste!:)
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quangdog

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Instead of the extra capacity I would keep the standard size pan and more focus on getting the cooling fins. Of course the drain plug is a added bonus
The larger pan also has lots of cooling fins, but I see what you mean. The larger pan does hang down just a bit deeper than the standard PPE pan - though both tuck up well above the frame.
 

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The larger pan also has lots of cooling fins, but I see what you mean. The larger pan does hang down just a bit deeper than the standard PPE pan - though both tuck up well above the frame.
When you get down to it it's better to keep the same capacity. Especially when someone else is going to service it for you. With adding the cooling fins essentially you're just helping the cooling circuit for the transmission do its job. Also having the shallower pan makes it easier if you're going to add skid plates. The aftermarket skid plates will be much closer to that pan versus not having skid plates at all and it's better to have room between the skid plates in that pan
 

Stic-o

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From what I recall when I still had my Ranger and monitored the trans temp windowing it usually stayed pretty stable unless you really got under a heavy load which was usually including going up big hills or being in stop and go traffic or better yet a combination of both. A little over 2 years ago when I picked up the Pathfinder I towed at home with the Ranger. It got to a point that I decided to pull off to the side of the road while letting the ranger idle for a few minutes just to let it cool down before continuing on. That's it I do know that the transmission fluid will be okay up to 250° F.

I try to keep mine under 230* and for very short times, literally minutes. Other than that 220* or lower. I have trans temp gauges on every other vehicle I own. Ford transmissions are notorious for crapping the bed early in my experience. So taking care of them is pretty crucial.
 

MarioCart

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Take a chemical analysis of your cup of water vs your pee. I'll bet you see a significant difference in the chemical composition. Your body is flushing it for a reason....getting rid of waste.

Do your transmission a favor and get rid of the waste!:)
that's what the Blackstone report (or the doctors requisition on the urine analysis) is for.
If there is nothing bad, there's nothing to worry about
 
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yuck6

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Do you think the taking care of the transmission, like doing earlier fluid changes will save them?Same thing with the PPE pan, I’ve been considering getting it but will the transmission crap out before a second fluid change.

I’m about to hit 70k miles and will be doing a fluid change soon, and at that point I was debating getting the new PPE Pan.
 

ctechbob

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I've usually recommended 30k fluid and 60k fluid/filter.

The main objective is to keep the contaminants out of the valve body. Lots of little passages in there to get fouled. It is also my belief that some of our problems are caused by slow or slightly sticking valves in the valve body. Keeping fresh fluid/additives in and particles out is what I shoot for. You only have to look at the filter Ford is using with these things to realize that they at least thought that they wanted to keep the fluid as clean as possible. (And then went and ruined it with a stupid long suggested change interval).
 

Langwilliams

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I was thinking I'd change what's in the pan every 40K or so.

Correct me if I'm wrong by my understanding is this only changes about a third of the fluid but keeping it "refreshed" will help with it's effectiveness. I've heard mixed reviews about doing a "flush".

Maybe a pan fluid change at 40K an a flush at 80?

I don't know why I obsess over stuff like this I rarely keep a car for more than 5 years but I always tell my self "this one I'm keeping"
 

MarioCart

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changing your oil earlier wont help with the CDF bushing problem.
 

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Do you think the taking care of the transmission, like doing earlier fluid changes will save them?Same thing with the PPE pan, I’ve been considering getting it but will the transmission crap out before a second fluid change.

I’m about to hit 70k miles and will be doing a fluid change soon, and at that point I was debating getting the new PPE Pan.
It certainly can help. The general rule of thumb when it comes to an Automatic Transmission is to service it regularly and to try and keep it cool(or at least keep it from getting stupid hot at least). Do those and an Automatic Transmission can last for a long time
 

ctechbob

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I was thinking I'd change what's in the pan every 40K or so.

Correct me if I'm wrong by my understanding is this only changes about a third of the fluid but keeping it "refreshed" will help with it's effectiveness. I've heard mixed reviews about doing a "flush".

Maybe a pan fluid change at 40K an a flush at 80?

I don't know why I obsess over stuff like this I rarely keep a car for more than 5 years but I always tell my self "this one I'm keeping"

I wouldn't do a 'flush', if by that you mean hooking it up to one of the BG like machines that cycle new fluid in through the cooling ports. IMO that just opens you up to things leaking once they're taken apart and put back together.

Prior to my PPE pan, I just vacuumed out the fluid through the dipstick port, which is miles better than nothing.

At 80k you really should drop the pan and replace the filter.
 

Langwilliams

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I wouldn't do a 'flush', if by that you mean hooking it up to one of the BG like machines that cycle new fluid in through the cooling ports. IMO that just opens you up to things leaking once they're taken apart and put back together.

Prior to my PPE pan, I just vacuumed out the fluid through the dipstick port, which is miles better than nothing.

At 80k you really should drop the pan and replace the filter.
I'm thinking fluid an filter every 40 or 50K. Might consider doing the first one at 30K since it's the "break in fluid" then 40-50 after. I will use the mini vac to empty the pan.
 

ctechbob

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I'm thinking fluid an filter every 40 or 50K. Might consider doing the first one at 30K since it's the "break in fluid" then 40-50 after. I will use the mini vac to empty the pan.
Truth be told, I started doing a vacuum and fill at 10K (And using an additive). Overkill? Perhaps. I work the truck pretty hard, so I feel better with fresh fluid. Haven't done a change since I did the PPE pan, but it will be due here in another 4k.
 
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