SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[Blue Streak]

As you have read through the threads, this can be a few things, the Left Blend Actuator or wiring control to it or the Door itself is binding and blocking the actuator from moving.

What specific did the dealer say they found?
Does the actuator Click/Pop? when trying to adjust the temp?
If YES - then it is getting power, now it's the (flip the coin)? of the actuator or the door or a combo of both.

If only the actuator - it is possible to replace without pulling the dash, but you have to drill a hole in the support bracket to get a regular screwdriver lined up for one of the screws, I have not had to do it but you may be able to get an off-set screwdriver on it or short stubby.
So, you can pull the actuator and attempt to clean & reinstall or replace it, but if the blend door is binding the part will soon fail again.
or
You can just remove the actuator and use a (modification) to manually move the lever open and closed.
There is a post somewhere on here for that (passenger side) similar temp fix.

But the answer to your question - NO there is not an EASY way to do it, the actuator must be removed to manually move the door.

Here are some threads with related information, if you search YouTube there are some videos for the driver's actuator replacement as well.

Blend door actuator replacement w/o pulling the dash. | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

HVAC / Climate Control- Issues - Operation - T-Shoot and Breakdown | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

The Dreaded Blend Door | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

Manually change blend actuator from heat to AC? | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

This is what Airline Tech is referring to, but mine has manual A/C this is for the blend door to control the temp. Since the install I have painted it & blends in well. I have to take another pic.

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[Blue Streak]

Airline Tech or any one else question. If the blend door is binding why is it so easy to move manually? Or is it that the side of the box warps enough to move the acctuator? ?

 

[AzScorpion]

Airline Tech or any one else question. If the blend door is binding why is it so easy to move manually? Or is it that the side of the box warps enough to move the acctuator? ?

Mine is electronic but when I took it apart the actuator was broken off the arm. I would think that's what happened to yours and that's why it's moving freely and the link is now disconnected.

 

[Blue Streak]

Mine is not broken. my diy control rod is on the same pin that the actuator moves. Here is a painted pic. No panel in place because I do not have a spare & don't want to drill thru the one I have.

 

[AzScorpion]

Mine is not broken. my diy control rod is on the same pin that the actuator moves. Here is a painted pic. No panel in place because I do not have a spare & don't want to drill thru the one I have.

I see....I think you re right in that the box warps enough to move the actuator.

 

[airline tech]

As @quangdog posted on his R&R of the assembly, there is not allot of torque required to move the doors - the actuators are plastic gears and a small dc motor, so it does not take very much extra resistance to cause the actuators to jump gears and become out of sync and lost.

In this pic - the WHITE arm is part of the HVAC assembly, there is a small guide pin that sticks out of the end of it.
The YELLOW piece in between is a bellcrank that guides (moves) the white arm and the actuator drives the bellcrank.

If the actuator just jumps a gear or gets lost on the (feedback) position track - it is possible to remove and clean & lube and reinstall - and it MAY be a fix.
But I am the type of mechanic - if it is difficult to access, just REPLACE it, why go through the time and effort just to redo the work again if it does not fix the issue, (actuator failure only)

But if the internal door is causing this actuator assembly to bind up, it may break, or bend the WHITE lever enough that the guide pin pops out of the yellow bellcrank track

Since it is unknown what specific spot, the door is binding at (internally) but I think it has to do with the shaft that the white lever connects to and allows it to rock side to side, this tweaks (bends) the white lever off to the side and then the guide pin gets jammed into the yellow bellcrank when moving (Cold - Hot)

So, with that said - the recent post of can this be moved without tearing apart the dash.
I am going to back track some here, and say yes, it is possible BUT you may do more damage and get into a situation where the white arm must be replaced (which there are no aftermarket parts for just this piece) as trying to force past the internal resistance of the dc Motor and gears when it is installed and the limited access you may unknowingly bend or break it.
Option: Find a Pick N Pull - Type salvage yard and pull one from that if it breaks off.

So, one could try - Manual Movement

Disconnect the connector - Arrow (pulling away)

Get a plastic (trim tool) - long and thin and attempt to push the YELLOW bellcrank, I think some are BLUE at the bottom end of it towards the firewall.
If stuck on (HEAT)

or
Get a Stubby Phillips Screwdriver wrap the end with some electrical tape and try to wedge it into the white (circled) spot and attempt to rotate the actuator by hand.

If I remember correctly:

Rotate CW - to Open (Heat)
Rotate CCW - to Close (Cold)

This pic shows the door fully closed (note the white arm - position), when that lever rotates (down-C/W) the temp door opens

Do not use too much pressure when doing this, if you can get it to move, leave the connector disconnected or it will just drive back into open position again (stuck on heat)

 

[Chatis]

Thanks guys. Response has been amazing. If I pull off the actuator and move the door to the closed for heat position what keeps it in that position? Won't bumps in driving move it around? Also, does it modulate. If I can unbind it would, say, not going above 70 degrees stop it from getting to the stuck place?

But, maybe it is not stuck but the motor is burned out.

My bigger question is if this is so common why is there not a recall??

Thanks again for the responses.

 

[airline tech]

It may bounce with bumps etc - you may try adding something like this, to help keep it in place
or if you can move it with the actuator in place (it will stay) in the position you move it as long as you leave the connector off.
But if removed you can rig something like below or tape it in place, but it won't be quick adjustable unless you use the GREAT IDEA below.

This does not generate any (IPC) fault codes, you can see (nuisance) and you won't see them unless you scan for them. Actuator disconnected and or removed.
So, it is just the matter of getting used to having to manually move the door, until it is repaired

With your issue of being always (HOT) and living in KC, you need to be able to adjust it now that winter is setting in. as this will affect (defrost) temps as well, and it won't be long we will be seeing frost

You may try something to take some of the discomfort away and that is block of the footwell ducting from blowing on your feet, that way it is not as noticeable.

As far as a Recall - it never made it to that level - but this did get a SSM (Special Service MSG)
which is the lowest level of information to the Ford Techs, and it just advises how to test and determine to replace the HVAC assembly and that covers the MY 19-20

 

[AzScorpion]

Thanks guys. Response has been amazing. If I pull off the actuator and move the door to the closed for heat position what keeps it in that position? Won't bumps in driving move it around? Also, does it modulate. If I can unbind it would, say, not going above 70 degrees stop it from getting to the stuck place?

But, maybe it is not stuck but the motor is burned out.

My bigger question is if this is so common why is there not a recall??

Thanks again for the responses.

I never had any problems with the arm moving when I took mine off. I've been off road with it many times even up in Moab and it never moved once. In my post above (530) you can see where it broke off and I pulled off the broken (white) piece of the actuator. Now you can just flip the metal arm that's in the middle of the actuator up for AC and down for heat with your finger. You don't have to take everything apart just the lower panel then reach up there and it moves easily. I got to the point where I could do it in 10-15 minutes twice a year.

Here's my original post and where to drill the middle screw out.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...snapping-noise-from-the-dash.9659/post-419911

 

[pismo1]

I never had any problems with the arm moving when I took mine off. I've been off road with it many times even up in Moab and it never moved once. In my post above (530) you can see where it broke off and I pulled off the broken (white) piece of the actuator. Now you can just flip the metal arm that's in the middle of the actuator up for AC and down for heat with your finger. You don't have to take everything apart just the lower panel then reach up there and it moves easily. I got to the point where I could do it in 10-15 minutes twice a year.

Here's my original post and where to drill the middle screw out.

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...snapping-noise-from-the-dash.9659/post-419911

Did this happen on your 2023 and are these trucks no longer under warranty?

 

[AzScorpion]

Did this happen on your 2023 and are these trucks no longer under warranty?

This happened on my '19 and so far my '23 has been fine. They were only supposed to effect the 2019's up to the mid 2020's but a few here have had the same problem with later years. IIRC they're only covered under the 3/36 and this (and the transmission) were the reason I bought the extended warranty.

 

[Blue Streak]

Not having automatic climate control makes my idea a lot easier.

 

[Chatis]

Well, I undertook this yesterday. Here are my comments on this process for the next newbie that has this issue:.

1. Pulling off the panel just takes some courage. Pull from the top since it hinges on the bottom. its all snaps except the hinging piece which has annoying screws. Its quite hard to get off.
2. The panel next to center console has even more snaps, no screws. Pull it off with a lot of force.
3. You need to take out the floor duct and move the duct around to get access. There are two support fasteners to remove. You need to disconnect a sensor wire.
4. The hole you need to drill in the brace needs to by a little higher than the pictures show to get to the hidden screw.
5. Its not really accessible so take your time to get it out.
6. I pulled the actuator out from the front gap and it came right out.
7. Once I took it out it was so easy to move the door, and the actuator was moving when I changed the ventilation so I am completely lost why it wasn't working.
8. I left the actuator connected to the wires and zip tied it to another brace that has a hole right there.
9. If I need to change it all it need to do is pull the panel off, stick my hand up there and move it to the other position

Now some questions:

1. I left it wired because I was concerned that I would get error messages. I am not sure that this is the case. Please confirm.
2. Since this only affect the drives side dash vents for me, am I correct that the defrost and footwell will still get heat on the drivers side?? If so I will just leave it closed.
3. I am still shocked that it was stuck. It took no effort to move. Should I just get a new actuator and try to see if it will move? Could it be that because I moved it I unbound it and the actuator and everything is still good?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[airline tech]

Well, I undertook this yesterday. Here are my comments on this process for the next newbie that has this issue:.

1. Pulling off the panel just takes some courage. Pull from the top since it hinges on the bottom. its all snaps except the hinging piece which has annoying screws. Its quite hard to get off.
2. The panel next to center console has even more snaps, no screws. Pull it off with a lot of force.
3. You need to take out the floor duct and move the duct around to get access. There are two support fasteners to remove. You need to disconnect a sensor wire.
4. The hole you need to drill in the brace needs to by a little higher than the pictures show to get to the hidden screw.
5. Its not really accessible so take your time to get it out.
6. I pulled the actuator out from the front gap and it came right out.
7. Once I took it out it was so easy to move the door, and the actuator was moving when I changed the ventilation so I am completely lost why it wasn't working.
8. I left the actuator connected to the wires and zip tied it to another brace that has a hole right there.
9. If I need to change it all it need to do is pull the panel off, stick my hand up there and move it to the other position

Now some questions:

1. I left it wired because I was concerned that I would get error messages. I am not sure that this is the case. Please confirm.
2. Since this only affect the drives side dash vents for me, am I correct that the defrost and footwell will still get heat on the drivers side?? If so I will just leave it closed.
3. I am still shocked that it was stuck. It took no effort to move. Should I just get a new actuator and try to see if it will move? Could it be that because I moved it I unbound it and the actuator and everything is still good?

Thanks again for all your help.

1. If disconnected - it would trigger error codes, but you would not see them on the IPC message screen (only via scan tool)

2. To confirm, set the HVAC up for Max Defrost or Defrost in manual mode and drive the Temp to HI. Then feel the defrost vent.

3. As, noted in @quangdog video he posted, also pointed out that the movement difference was minimal between both sides, and he had previously replaced the actuator in question.
So, you are at a crossroad here.

A. Pull the actuator apart and attempt to clean / lube & reinstall, as the issue may have been the actuator just got lost on the feedback wiper sweep. Reinstall and see what it does

B. Shotgun (Replace) a new actuator and see what it does.

C. Fault may have just needed a pull & re-seat of the connector, dirty connection - Reseat and see what it does.

In this situation, I would replace the actuator and see what happens, but it truly depends on the exact code it was giving during the fault.

1. Was the Fault created by a wiring issue going to the actuator?
More than likely - NO as this is a VREF circuit and it would generally affect the whole circuit.

So, after replacing if the issue comes back is a very good sign it is the door binding.

 

[airline tech]

Update: to post above:

With the drivers side door set to full cold and the passenger side set to hot.
The passenger side vent will be the only hot vent - the drivers will be cold.
I did a test on mine and split the temps on defrost,
So you will experience 1/2 of the windshield unable to defrost or difficulty in defrosting the drivers side.

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