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SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

subquark

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https://www.dashdesigns.com/
They have a Dealer Locator link on their site.

I got the velour in black to match the ebony interior...

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If you have a pre-collision warning device on the dash, be sure and get a cover with the cut-out for it...

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I like that dash cover a lot, seems like it would be 100% glare reduction. And thanks on the collision light thing as I have that too.

It looks like it fits great - any downside to it in your experience?
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OrangeStreak

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I like that dash cover a lot, seems like it would be 100% glare reduction. And thanks on the collision light thing as I have that too.

It looks like it fits great - any downside to it in your experience?
No issues...really happy with it. Quality material that lays on the dash smoothly without any wrinkles, clean seams...attached it with the Velcro tabs. No glare.
 
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TJC

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I kind of miss the days before cars were computerized. The mechanisms were simpler then and repairs less expense. Didn't have as many mysterious glitches and electrical issues. But I do enjoy the new features available with computers...such as being able to get the approximate miles to go after gassing up:


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My 2003 Maxima had that feature. It worked great. IMHO, It had the right mix of tech with mechanical devices.
 

TJC

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Once you owned a pre-computer car for more than a couple of weeks you could easily do that in your head.
I know exactly how many miles I can go on a tank full of gas in my 2005 Ranger. I reset the trip odometer each time I fill up, and start looking for a station when I reach 300 miles. It'll go 330 miles on a tank.
 


OrangeStreak

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My 2003 Maxima had that feature. It worked great. IMHO, It had the right mix of tech with mechanical devices.
I like the idea of being able to know approximately how much mileage you have left at a glance. This is the 1st vehicle I've owned with this feature.
 

OrangeStreak

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I
I know exactly how many miles I can go on a tank full of gas in my 2005 Ranger. I reset the trip odometer each time I fill up, and start looking for a station when I reach 300 miles. It'll go 330 miles on a tank.
I did the same on my 2011 4g.

1718966641565-iy.webp
 

conductor

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Gimme one of these! I'll trade my AC touch screen controls and servos for this in a heart beat. Same with radio controls (Volume and Tuning), give me a knob or two.

Computers have a place in automotive engineering but it should be used judiciously. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.

I'll trade sizzle for reliability every time. In a perfect world you want both, but reliability is far more important than sizzle.
Yeah , what's wrong with nob you turn, conneted to a heavy cable?
Better yet, make things easy to get at and not buried so you can pay Ford $100+ a hour to read up on how to take apart half your truck to replace a $4 part!
What the hell language is he speaking ?
 
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Kemo Sabe

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Per the manual to recalibrate the actuator:
Disconnect the connector on the actuator and the connector on the FCIM
Reconnect the actuator then the FCIM
But this is part of a complete wiring check of the control circuit (5-Volt Ref)

You could just pull the FCIM fuse (Fuse 12 at the BCM) Interior Fuse Panel, would be the same as pulling the connector on the FCIM.

But if you clear the code and then perform a FCIM SELF Test -It should cycle the actuators for a self-test, the problem is if you have a binding door the actuator may see this as end of travel and make that what it believes (thinks) is the full open / closed position and thus result in improper heat/cold distribution

It's easy to view with the proper scan tool - Live Data with Bi-Directional Control, you can command full travel and view it.

Example:

HVAC PID's.jpg




The issue with the actuators is that they are just small plastic gears, and a circuit board wiper, the wiper is the feedback for position.
If the wiper gets dirty it can lose that feedback and it gets lost and out of sync for position and then try to overdrive the door, click and pop sound - the plastic gears are jumping.

The binding of the door, if that is the case will provide the same sound as the actuator is trying to move the door past that bind and continues to drive it is jumping the plastic gears.
Thank you so very much for this response!!!!
 

P-38Ranger

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Wow. How did we ever survive before computers?
You were constantly tweaking the mechanical lever to the blend "doors" (I call them flaps).

My 1983 BMW had an amazing simple 3 levers. Top defrost, Middle dash vents, bottom floor vents.

Didn't us the defrost much, always tweaking the other two! I am glad to have a computer do it.
 

R_B

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I found this video on YouTube. He said it reset his heater. Not sure if it cycles the blend door but I thought I would share:

Thanks, Robert
 
 








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