- Banned
- #16
Always thought of you as more of a Duncan...When a vehicle burns to the ground, it’s not the gas tank that explodes usually; It’s all the tires.
Skelator will be back next week with more fun facts..
...than a Skeletor.
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Always thought of you as more of a Duncan...When a vehicle burns to the ground, it’s not the gas tank that explodes usually; It’s all the tires.
Skelator will be back next week with more fun facts..
This is a perfect case for DUAL Tailgate Damper...I wanted to get some general feedback as I feel like I am possibly missing something because the idea so simple I have to be missing something obvious. As most people know rear gate can mounting generally requires a steeply priced combination of either a replacement bumper or some sort of swing mount hitch option.
So I am in the beginning stages of designing more or less a steel bar U-shape (for lack of a better description) type mount. It will require drilling for the attachment points, but those points would actually be the tailgate access panel on the rear of the tailgate. I believe the height can easily be fine tuned to allow for proper clearance of opening the tailgate. The apparatus' only touching point will be the mounts, the steel bars would "float" over the top of the tailgate, then have drop down arms for the gas can mounting locations.
So this idea seems way to straight forward, what am I missing?
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My line of thinking is if someone can have the back end of an ATV or dirt bike on it, it shouldn't be nothing for a couple of liquid cans. Also keep in mind it is not just the hinges supporting it when closed, but the steel locking bars that connect to the main body.Only thing I can think of that could possibly be problematic is tailgate is made from aluminum. Hanging weight on it that’s not expected in the load direction may cause problems elsewhere. Pivot assembly’s may not be able to support that extra weight over a long duration and bouncing. Just an observation
Generally they would only be on their sides when going into and out of the bed short term. If need be, could just take the cans off if for some reason I needed to say, haul lumber for a bit.If it works for you, it's your truck, your build. I was taught to never put jerry cans on their side; possible spillage etc. I know, seals and gaskets.. and they never leak. You asked for thoughts, but again your truck, and if you're happy so should we all.
The cans on the outside was brought up. The military doesn't see to have many issues with this. I've never heard of an issue in the Canadian Forces.
Frank
Not a bad idea. Do you think a substantial rubber type wedge would work?I'm not a fan of exterior mounted cans, other than milspec metal cans, mostly for heat and expansion pressures. The potential problem I have with 5 gallon metal cans is the weight when loaded, and added weight of the mounting bracket. If I understand your design, the only contact point is on the inside of the tailgate, then up, over and down on the outside, with no additional support. The bracket would have to be substantial, if I have that right. The fuel can location being behind the tailgate, is prone to exaggerated momentum forces, with every bounce, all of which would also be magnified by the wrap around design and natural springiness it creates. All together, the load at the connection point would have much greater dynamic loads than I would be comfortable with on an aluminum tailgate with little internal structure.
Sorry for the cheesy graphics, but adding a second brace point on top of the tailgate would greatly reduce the dynamic load on the primary connection and add stability.
Black tailgate, red gas cans...
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It could help carry the weight, but not reduce the bounce/lift. I'd be more inclined to a solid connection, with a bolt down through the top of the tailgate.Not a bad idea. Do you think a substantial rubber type wedge would work?
I think if I was to add additional bracing it would be connection points up to my rack. Some sort of quick disconnect design so it's not a p i t a anytime you want to open your tailgateIt could help carry the weight, but not reduce the bounce/lift. I'd be more inclined to a solid connection, with a bolt down through the top of the tailgate.
Alternately if you don't want to drill the tailgate you could add a brace that goes down and between the side gaps, which encircles the tailgate hinges. The drawback to that is the ugly factor, but it could be fairly light duty, maybe 1'x1/8' aluminum flat bar, as it's just momentum control not to carry the full load.
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That would work too, but you could also design it so it clears the bumper and opens without additional fuss.I think if I was to add additional bracing it would be connection points up to my rack. Some sort of quick disconnect design so it's not a p i t a anytime you want to open your tailgate
I looked at that pic and said to myself "That's Man-at-Arms, who is Duncan?" Did not remember his name was also Duncan lol. What else from my childhood have I blocked out..Always thought of you as more of a Duncan...
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...than a Skeletor.