MBS Extended Automatic Transmission Dipsticks now available

[got3fords]

Those are great links, thank you. I ordered 8 quarts of ULV because I hadn't seen an example where someone used more than 7 for the deep pan. Plus, I'm adding 10oz of LubeGard. I didn't realize that you can get more fluid by waiting 24-48 hours. I will definitely do that and pick up another quart or two of ULV if I need it.

I'm not sure how messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the pan can get. I was going to wrap some duct tape about 3/8" up from the tip of the bit to prevent shooting through. I was just trying to avoid purchasing a pump I may not use again. I would rather drain the fluid for future changes using the plug than use a pump. It's quicker and even less messy than changing the oil since you don't have to deal with a side-mounted filter.

You could use a hole saw or spade bit and just stop after the center bit breaks through.

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[TJC]

Those are great links, thank you. I ordered 8 quarts of ULV because I hadn't seen an example where someone used more than 7 for the deep pan. Plus, I'm adding 10oz of LubeGard. I didn't realize that you can get more fluid by waiting 24-48 hours. I will definitely do that and pick up another quart or two of ULV if I need it.

I'm not sure how messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the pan can get. I was going to wrap some duct tape about 3/8" up from the tip of the bit to prevent shooting through. I was just trying to avoid purchasing a pump I may not use again. I would rather drain the fluid for future changes using the plug than use a pump. It's quicker and even less messy than changing the oil since you don't have to deal with a side-mounted filter.

Once you change to the deep pan you can easily change your oil with the pump, and know with certainty how much to put back. I use two 1 gallon jugs marked by the quart with a Sharpy pen. I usually fill to the gallon on the first jug, stop the pump, change jugs and then fill the 2nd jug until I run out of fluid. I use windshield washer jugs that are translucent, but milk jugs will work as well. But they are thinner.

I then put the exact same amount back in. All done without spilling a drop, and from under the hood... in about 35 minutes. Once complete, start the truck, immediately shift through the gears at 5 second intervals from park to sport, back to park, get out and immediately check the level with engine still running. You should see fluid at the tip of the dip stick - 1/8''- 3/16". It will be easy to see when its cold, much harder once it heats up and thins out.

No crawling on the ground. No mess. No guessing.

It's up to you, but I've done this multiple times now and found this to be the simplest, fastest, less messy way.... for me anyway. I haven't even cracked the drain plug on the PPE pan, and won't until I change the filter again in 25K miles, and then only to drain the last of the fluid that the pump won't get out.

Most of that 35 minutes is waiting for the pump to finish its job, but I like it transferring the fluid slower, as it is easier to stop at the 4 qt full mark of the first jug. I power the pump with a 30 year old "old school" 12v 10amp battery charger, but it will run off your truck battery just fine.

Best of luck

 

[Superspirit]

I haven't installed the deep pan yet and I was able to suck 7.5qts out through the fitzstick. Put 7 and a bottle lubegaurd platinum back in. Easy peasy.

 

[TJC]

I haven't installed the deep pan yet and I was able to suck 7.5qts out through the fitzstick. Put 7 and a bottle lubegaurd platinum back in. Easy peasy.

I did the same with my Ford plastic pan, 7.5 qts out... and the PPE Deep pan holds 1.75 qts more.

That's 9.25 qts to get back to the correct level after installing the PPE deep pan.

It is really very easy to overfill the transmission too. Esp when the fluid is hot. It will quickly migrate up/down the dipstick when hot.

 

[Superspirit]

I did the same with my Ford plastic pan, 7.5 qts out... and the PPE Deep pan holds 1.75 qts more.

That's 9.25 qts to get back to the correct level after installing the PPE deep pan.

It is really very easy to overfill the transmission too. Esp when the fluid is hot. It will quickly migrate up/down the dipstick when hot.

Well I just did the 30k service on mine so next round will be 60k and out of warranty. So I'll do the deep pan the filter and the zip kit at that time. Installing the zip kit requires disassembling the valve body so might need a lil more than an extra 1.75qt at that time. But gives me a good starting point. Thanks!

 

[TJC]

Well I just did the 30k service on mine so next round will be 60k and out of warranty. So I'll do the deep pan the filter and the zip kit at that time. Installing the zip kit requires disassembling the valve body so might need a lil more than an extra 1.75qt at that time. But gives me a good starting point. Thanks!

If or should I say when my transmission fails and I have a new one installed, I'll spend the $3K to purchase the NextGen Valve body, and install it in the new transmission.

I don't like doing major surgery on my vehicle unless it is a must.

I did fork out $10K to do atop down rebuild, replacing every major component in my 2005 Ranger - Jasper engine and transmission, New AC compressor, axles, ball joints, tierod ends, driveshaft, shocks, brake pads, thermostat housing (all aluminum, not the plastic Ford crap that leaks). I did not replace the transfer case and I should have. Anyone ever rebuild one? It is the one thing that I have not attempted. The truck is like new again. it was worth every penny that I invested and is good for another 20 years.

My wife is urging me to find a comfortable well maintained older car of my choice and modernize it with a a quality drive train, and forget about the modern disposable vehicles. I'm thinking it through and may do just that.

Sometimes less is more.

 

[1pt21gw]

Hey @Fitzmotor ! How ya doin?

any word on one for a Bronco w/ 2.3 yet?

Thanks for the great work you do!

 

[NvrFinished]

Fitzstick is back in stock and ordered. Thanks, @Fitzmotor!

 

[NvrFinished]

I just completed the Fitzstick install today. Took about 45 minutes. It took me about 15 minutes to figure out the best way to remove the plug. Contrary to what some assumed, it's aluminum, by the way. I used a flexible 3/8" ratchet and a 1-1/8" combo wrench as a cheater bar. Instead of bringing the handle down at a funky angle, I kept it close to the exhaust and slid the box end of the wrench over the ratchet handle. I had about 2" to work with and that was all I needed. It broke loose fairly easily.

I will be installing this bad boy in the next couple of days.

 

[Fitzmotor]

Hey @Fitzmotor ! How ya doin?

any word on one for a Bronco w/ 2.3 yet?

Thanks for the great work you do!

No not yet, but I will let you know!!

 

[NvrFinished]

I'm going to be pumping out fluid today for the pan change. I will try to wait two days to get as much fluid as I can.

This morning, out of curiosity, I checked the cold level using @TJC methods. I think I detected a small amount of fluid at the very tip of the dipstick. It wasn't 1/8" though. Makes me wonder if it was slightly low from the factory. It could also have to do with the fact that Mike mentions going through 4 full heat cycles with the Fitzstick first to account for the permanent shrinkage of the tube that occurs. That 1/32" difference may be it.

 

[Rence]

Mine was the same, fluid was touching the tip and when heated up was at 4 on the fitzstick. I waited two days and got 7.5 quarts.

 

[TJC]

Anywhere from just touching to 3/16" and you are good to go. Remember this is cold start running and flipping through the gears at 5 second intervals, then checking the dipstick immediately.

I'm glad to hear someone validating my results! Thanks for reporting back.

 

[got3fords]

Anywhere from just touching to 3/16" and you are good to go. Remember this is cold start running and flipping through the gears at 5 second intervals, then checking the dipstick immediately.

I'm glad to hear someone validating my results! Thanks for reporting back.

I need to revisit your findings, but when you say cold start, that's about 70 ambient?

 

[TJC]

The fluid temps were 77.5F, Ambient air was 75F. I let the truck sit overnight - 12 hours before beginning the tests.

I don't think 10F either side will matter, I intentionally chose the exact center of the fluid range on the stick while at the top of the temp range window of 215F. This would allow the largest flexibility in temps and still fall into the 4-5 range.

I think it is better to be a tad low than to overfill and have foaming, and severe excess heat. I believe the CDF drum slips due to excessive heat. It is a pressure fit, not captured, and if the coefficients of the metals are different (and I think that they are). the pressure fit of the drum will loosen enough to move the drum out over the fluid ports if there are excessively high temperature cycles.

I have not begun to experiment with temps yet. but it is coming. I'd like to target 180F as my running temp with an absolute top at 190F. This will insure the transmission lasts for the long haul.

Again.... my opinion... I suspect 170F-180F would be even better, but it would require some serious mods to get there.

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