Maximum Expected HP from tuning Ranger?

[SuperSteve]

33” tires will have to be adjusted to the tune..lotta drag, might try a Dyno ..

Yeah I was talking earlier about renting dyno time and having 5* remote tune it.

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[dondonbabyraptor]

I'm fortunate that with my job I can afford the raptor. But my adult brain says "DO NOT BUY A 75 THOUSAND DOLLAR VEHICLE".

Child Brain "DO IT BITCH"

So here I am hoping to push a little more to scratch the itch for some HP before I go all in on a $1200 truck payment.

Oh hello good sir. Want to beat stock raptors, excite others and have more fun in general, while not being a wide tank on the streets and off-road (f150 raptor)?

Mishimoto charge pipes, exhaust and cai of your choice, and any tune(even FP), you will sweep the floor as long as you keep stock weight tires/wheels. You’re looking at $2500 to scratch your itch and have a crazy amount of fun being in the 4.6-5 second 0-60 range. Go unleashed or Livernois and you are easily touching 4.2-4.5 seconds 0-60 IMO. These turbos are no joke… funny to see the wide open mouth face and owl neck of many.

 

[dondonbabyraptor]

FP tune, Roush cai, Mishimoto charge pipes, FP exhaust. Under 5 seconds 0-60 multiple times. Key is to keep unsprung weight stock.. pretty sure you can break 4 seconds or get close to it with a damn good set of summer tires and full bolt on + Livernois/Unleashed. Too much spin/tq to the stock tires…

 

[dondonbabyraptor]

Oh yeah. Don’t mind this specific thread to gauge how this whole forum is. I guarantee you this place is great. You just asked a question people take too damn personally as they think their tune rules all. Different rubs, different tunes IMO. Lots of reasons why to choose one over the other, even 5star I could say has reasons with its power output and stage3 warranty combo with 5star that’s pretty darn cheap. Stage3 will also take care of you as proven by another member here who blew a rod..

 

[SuperSteve]

Oh yeah. Don’t mind this specific thread to gauge how this whole forum is. I guarantee you this place is great. You just asked a question people take too damn personally as they think their tune rules all. Different rubs, different tunes IMO. Lots of reasons why to choose one over the other, even 5star I could say has reasons with its power output and stage3 warranty combo with 5star that’s pretty darn cheap. Stage3 will also take care of you as proven by another member here who blew a rod..

Thanks for the info. Yeah I never expected all off this and the screenshots of my account and shit. dude I'm just a weekend warrior who doesn't have a ton off time to devote to forums. I had good intentions starting the thread, I was surprised when I had a lull in work and saw all of this lmao

 

[Superdannyboy]

FP tune, Roush cai, Mishimoto charge pipes, FP exhaust. Under 5 seconds 0-60 multiple times. Key is to keep unsprung weight stock.. pretty sure you can break 4 seconds or get close to it with a damn good set of summer tires and full bolt on + Livernois/Unleashed. Too much spin/tq to the stock tires…

I think I'm one of the few that needs that power off-road and on road.
Cranking up the compression on my rear shocks will also give me more grip and the dual spares in the back and the sand bags for now until I build my bed cage.

 

[RBMAN]

Hey everyone,

First time posting but I’m having a hard time deciding where to spend my money in making our trucks as quick / reliable as possible. I’m sort of on the fence between selling my Ranger and buying a raptor or keeping it and cashing in on that power to weight ratio we can achieve with our trucks.

Ive read a ton of threads about tuning and so on. But what I’m wondering about in this thread is what whp numbers are y’all putting up with bolt ons (exhaust, tune, intake, maybe intercooler). I thought about going with the turbo upgrade that stage3 has but I’m not necessarily ready to go into the hole and ruining reliability if I can help it.
I’ve seen the dyno thread but am surprised at some of the numbers, I see rousch has their rangers pushing some numbers in the 300s and was curious if we could achieve the same thing without the rousch stickers.
Thanks in advance!

RBMAN here-I've read a lot of the discussion here and and I am not too mechanically inclined so lot of it was over my head. Before I obtained my 2021 Lariat I ran across a website 'tfltruck' that suggested I could get 300 HP by burning premium. I did that from the start and was really impressed. I also had the Ford Performance Calibration Kit installed, but didn't notice any increase in HP. It was supposed to increase it by 40 HP, but I guess using premium kind of offset the difference. I think it did improve the shift and driving in 'S' is really fun. No tickets yet! Anyway, I think if you are not doing it already, try using premium and see if you notice a difference.

 

[SuperSteve]

RBMAN here-I've read a lot of the discussion here and and I am not too mechanically inclined so lot of it was over my head. Before I obtained my 2021 Lariat I ran across a website 'tfltruck' that suggested I could get 300 HP by burning premium. I did that from the start and was really impressed. I also had the Ford Performance Calibration Kit installed, but didn't notice any increase in HP. It was supposed to increase it by 40 HP, but I guess using premium kind of offset the difference. I think it did improve the shift and driving in 'S' is really fun. No tickets yet! Anyway, I think if you are not doing it already, try using premium and see if you notice a difference.

Man here in PA Premium is like $4 a gallon. I'm open to only running premium if I know it's gonna get me some more whp and smiles per gallon

 

[Superdannyboy]

RBMAN here-I've read a lot of the discussion here and and I am not too mechanically inclined so lot of it was over my head. Before I obtained my 2021 Lariat I ran across a website 'tfltruck' that suggested I could get 300 HP by burning premium. I did that from the start and was really impressed. I also had the Ford Performance Calibration Kit installed, but didn't notice any increase in HP. It was supposed to increase it by 40 HP, but I guess using premium kind of offset the difference. I think it did improve the shift and driving in 'S' is really fun. No tickets yet! Anyway, I think if you are not doing it already, try using premium and see if you notice a difference.

That is true premium gives you a nice bump in HP.
Stock 87 octane gets 270 HP at the crank.
Stock 93 octane gets 255 HP to the rear wheels.
A 93 tune that gives you at least 45 HP to the wheels will get 300 rwhp. You can also go with 87 or 89 or 91 and achieve 300 rwhp if the 5 star 93 performance gets you 255 + 75 = 330 rwhp. Add a downpipe and that 345 rwhp. That's different than crank horsepower.

 

[dondonbabyraptor]

Premium probably won't improve shifting points but what it will do is increase miles per gallon (not by cost/miles driven ratio, people will argue me this all the time so I changed my wording), and give you 15 more hp. It has been proven many times and proven by EPA government study on f150 ecoboost...

 

[McLeadslinger]

You will definitely be pleased. The 93 performance tune is almost a slap in the face difference, especially from a stop in 4wd with TC off and Diff locked ??????? Also remember that they will do tune revisions for any hiccups or minor mod additions.

93 performance
93 daily/tow
85+ adaptive octane

Haven't put anything but 93 in it since I bought it but I have to include the adaptive one just in case!

 

[puckdodger]

I used Unleashed. Very quick turnaround on any questions and excellent customer support. They have been tuning EB engines for quite a while and I couldn't find any horror stories about their tunes turning engines into grenades.

Very smooth shifting now, most of the jerkiness I noticed on cold take offs is gone, overall I am much more pleased with how the truck drives.

Only downside is warranty issues, but I believe a properly tuned engine will run better and have fewer issues.

 

[Superdannyboy]

so lets poke the hornets nest here...

I don't want anecdotal comments, nor do i want quoted links to some one else's data. We know any tuner will push the data to favor their tune. that's marketing 101.

since there clearly is an inconsistent reporting of how much if any HP higher octane will give us (look above and its like drunks throwing darts at the board)....is there anyone who actually has before and after dyno data for their truck? no other mods....just the octane change.
I clearly want to see the factual data of the improvement so many effortlessly spew as truth from a real world user.

One of the reasons I call BS so often on this is because the FP tune states an increase in HP and torque...and that has the requirement to use 93 or 91. others claim octane alone gives them nearly the numbers Ford posts. so...either Fords tune is garbage and you're paying a lot of money for nothing, or the octane data itself is wrong.

So lets see something independent. Something raw and true. none of your asses are calibrated therefore none of your claims are verified and subjective to dispute.

I can offer my 6 months use of higher octane fuel has done nothing for me....I did not see a major mileage increase, it did go up, but it was also summer. I did not feel any extra power, i'm not shredding the rubber off the tires, even if i try. I suspect I have a cleaner fuel system though because I am paying for more detergents, down the road this likely will benefit me. I don't tow with the truck. I don't climb mountains, I don't therefore see a need for the higher octane to reduce knocking. So in essence, I'm paying more for no noticeable gains.

But if you come here and read about it, and it sounds like by gosh and by golly I should be running my truck on the NASCAR circuit or at the drag strip because of the massive gains.

For everyone's benefit...lets see the hard, real world, people of Ranger5g's personal dyno data for this singular change in octane.

Stock 93 octane 255 rwhp.

 

[McLeadslinger]

TFL truck is pretty legit.

 

[slowmachine]

so lets poke the hornets nest here...

I don't want anecdotal comments, nor do i want quoted links to some one else's data. We know any tuner will push the data to favor their tune. that's marketing 101.

since there clearly is an inconsistent reporting of how much if any HP higher octane will give us (look above and its like drunks throwing darts at the board)....is there anyone who actually has before and after dyno data for their truck? no other mods....just the octane change.
I clearly want to see the factual data of the improvement so many effortlessly spew as truth from a real world user.

One of the reasons I call BS so often on this is because the FP tune states an increase in HP and torque...and that has the requirement to use 93 or 91. others claim octane alone gives them nearly the numbers Ford posts. so...either Fords tune is garbage and you're paying a lot of money for nothing, or the octane data itself is wrong.

So lets see something independent. Something raw and true. none of your asses are calibrated therefore none of your claims are verified and subjective to dispute.

I can offer my 6 months use of higher octane fuel has done nothing for me....I did not see a major mileage increase, it did go up, but it was also summer. I did not feel any extra power, i'm not shredding the rubber off the tires, even if i try. I suspect I have a cleaner fuel system though because I am paying for more detergents, down the road this likely will benefit me. I don't tow with the truck. I don't climb mountains, I don't therefore see a need for the higher octane to reduce knocking. So in essence, I'm paying more for no noticeable gains.

But if you come here and read about it, and it sounds like by gosh and by golly I should be running my truck on the NASCAR circuit or at the drag strip because of the massive gains.

For everyone's benefit...lets see the hard, real world, people of Ranger5g's personal dyno data for this singular change in octane.

From my rudimentary understanding of dynamometer testing, you really need to test on the same dyno, on the same day. It would be best if both tests were on the same truck, but the adaptive programming in the Ranger may not allow a true “apples to apples” test on the same day. Eliminating variables gives the most meaningful results.

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