Maximizing Battery Life

[IdahoRanger]

Tony @TJC and @airline tech have taught me a bunch about battery maintenance. This is my first AGM battery and first vehicle with a BMS. You have opened my eyes to keeping a healthy battery and the tools needed to do so. I never heard about a desulfator before.

Original battery is going strong even though I have not changed or disconnected the BMS. This was a couple days ago and finally have upped the CCA's above the rated 800.

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[TJC]

I've been at 95% for quite some time now with no ill effects. I think 95% and the desulfator have really helped my battery. I havent gotten really high CCA readings yet but they've been right around 700. But auto stop start works when I don't hit the button and everything else acts normal and the battery is now 4 years and 1 months old. Recall that at 2 years and 9 months the radio would shut off then I turned off the truck so I think battery health is much better even if it won't get to full capacity.

My goal back then was for my battery to make it to 5 years. My 96 Tacoma's battery made it to just over 7 and still had some life. My 08 Canyon made it 6-1/2 years and still had a bit of life left.

I shoot for 10 years of battery life... and generally get it. The last 4 have all gone that long. The last one that didn't went 9 and died because an alternator died on a Christmas Eve road trip 150 miles out from the destination where an alternator was waiting. I pulled in the small town at dusk unable to touch the brake pedal without the engine faltering to the point where I thought it would simply stop running! 150 miles away the alternator light came on. At 50 miles out the dash lit up like a Christmas tree! The last 5 miles all the dash light went off, and touching the brake pedal felt like the engine would stall so I coasted.

When I finally pulled into the home we were staying at, I changed the alternator and put the battery on a charger all night. Stayed there a few days and drive home, but the battery was never the same. It simply failed 18 months later (lights out dead) - just over 9 years. BTW, it was an Odyssey Battery - the last of the good ones made in the USA.

 

[TJC]

Tony @TJC and @airline tech have taught me a bunch about battery maintenance. This is my first AGM battery and first vehicle with a BMS. You have opened my eyes to keeping a healthy battery and the tools needed to do so. I never heard about a desulfator before.

Original battery is going strong even though I have not changed or disconnected the BMS. This was a couple days ago and finally have upped the CCA's above the rated 800.

It feels really good to see those numbers, doesn't it! The BM Desulators work, they just take time to do their thing.

 

[IdahoRanger]

It feels really good to see those numbers, doesn't it! The BM Desulators work, they just take time to do their thing.

Was thrilled.

 

[TJC]

I've completed my analysis on BMS with SOC @ 95% vs disconnected BMS Sensor.

I have disconnected the BMS sensor, and it will stay that way for the duration of my ownership.

I prefer the old Ford charging standard vs the latest BMS incantation.

A week ago I disconnected the BMS sensor and used heat shrink and a 1/4" outside diameter PVC plastic pipe to insure the connectors on both end remain corrosion and water free. I used 2 different diameter heat shrink tubing to seal the connector and the plug. The 1/4" diameter 1/2" long PVC pipe (insulator) was used to bridge the gap. Took 2 different sizes of heat shrink to get the job done, but every thing is now water proof sealed, and easy to reverse if it becomes necessary.
Here's a picture of the desulfator and the heat shrink bridge.

I just got back from a grocery run, about 10 miles each way. Voltage started at 13.9v and dropped to 13.7v by the time I reached the store. On the way home the voltage started at 13.8v and dropped to 13.5v, then rose to 13.7v the rest of the way home. It was dark so headlights and AC were on both ways - 83F and 90% humidity. Remember that this voltage reads 0.2v low in the cab.

I've picked my poison. We'll see how this works out long term.

 

[got3fords]

I just realized there are two AGM options on my battery tester. I think they were AGMS and AGMF. One is spiral wound, the other is flat-plate. Safe to assume stock battery is flat-plate?

 

[thorn726]

im going to do a thorough and somewhat comical post soon but also applicable here: make sure your connections are tight. battery will charge better and last longer if properly connected. cold weather, time and vibration can loosen the main connections a little

 

[TJC]

I just realized there are two AGM options on my battery tester. I think they were AGMS and AGMF. One is spiral wound, the other is flat-plate. Safe to assume stock battery is flat-plate?

Odyssey Batteries are spiral tech, most, including Ford are flat plate

 

[moorejl57]

Does anyone know if turning off ASS/BMS in Forscan is the same as unplugging the BMS connector?

 

[TJC]

Does anyone know if turning off ASS/BMS in Forscan is the same as unplugging the BMS connector?

I do not believe that they are the same. I do think that they are similar. I have tried both, and still have ASS turned off in ForScan with SOC set to 95, but I just made the decision to unplug the BMS Sensor last week....which negates those settings, as I believe (based upon my testing) that Ford falls back to the older charging technology when the BMS sensor fails to report.

I saw different charging patterns with the BMS sensor connected with ASS turned off than I had with the sensor unplugged. The BMS seemed more dynamic with the sensor plugged in. With the sensor unplugged I saw definable repeatable charging readings very similar to what I see with my 2005 Ranger.

I have very good luck with keeping batteries healthy for long periods of time with my 2005 Ranger, so I am going with what I understand and have a proven track record with.

There is too much smoke and mirrors going on with the present Ford BMS for me to keep it functional. I honestly believe that the present BMS implementation sacrifices battery life for a yet to be proven perceived gain in fuel economy.

Time will tell if I have made the right decision. I may very well be wrong.

Here in North Carolina, some counties require smog checks which consist of checking for errors using an OBDII scanner. If they see a DTC, you may be required to correct them before passing an inspection (depending on the error). The county that I reside in presently only requires a safety inspection.

 

[Idaho Mike]

Good info!

 

[TJC]

Update: Now that my transmission is behaving very close to normal, I am driving the truck more frequently. Drove another 20 miles round trip and the charge voltage started at 13.8V and slowly dropped to 13.7v where it stayed the rest of the trip. This is right in line with what the 2005 Ranger reports in cab. But the 2020 reads .2v lower in the cab, so in reality the 2020 has the same charge pattern as the 2005 Ranger, just .2v higher.

 

[TJC]

Charge voltage consistently holding at 13.8v now. Have not measured battery status lately, but it did dip when I stopped driving the truck due to transmission issues. Have to run the tests some time soon. Fluid changes coming up. I'll be changing spark plugs (and possibly the DPFE sensor) in a effort to clear up a slight stumble in the engine when under slight load.

I'll check and report battery condition at that time.

Man it is getting hot out now. Time to do this work before the 95+ high humidity dog days arrive.

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