Inner Rear Brake Pads Burning Up

[Rp930]

I am using the stock wheels, with slightly larger tires (nothing excessive) at 265 70R/17, with ~1mph difference on the speedometer. I was told that they do not need to adjust the computer for that size since it is so close but I found that weird. But then again, there are people on here with dramatically larger tires that haven't adjusted their computers for them and they are fine so who knows... haha. I appreciate the input

I was more referring to the issue of circumference. Be sure they are all the same size. You can also chalk all four tires and measure on the ground.

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[nny_ranger]

I was more referring to the issue of circumference. Be sure they are all the same size. You can also chalk all four tires and measure on the ground.

Oh okay, I see what you are saying now. Thank you for that tip. I will check that tonight

 

[Jerry Caldwell]

Was the brake pad issue ever resolved?

 

[nny_ranger]

As of yet, unfortunately no. Ford told me July 21st they ordered new pads and rotors for me to replace the stuff currently on the vehicle and Ford corporate gave them 3 things to check on my truck, but I check with them every week and keep getting told "the parts will arrive next week".

 

[nny_ranger]

Sorry for the long wait on this guys. Ford looked at my truck and said my pad wear looks fine this time and my rotors aren't warped (even though they are pitted and blued from heat and being turned over and over). I am getting vibration when slowing down and they say it is the calipers binding. They took everything apart and greased it and still is happening. Not sure where I am going to go from here. Hopefully the pads will get a full life this time, but it doesn't look likely.

 

[geophb]

Did you try going somewhere else? Brakes aren't this complicated.

The rear calipers don't "compress" either, they screw in because of the ebrake design.
How does your ebrake work? i.e. does is hold okay? How far up does ebrake handle need to be pulled, grabs instantly or pulls part way up like normal?

"Pitted and blued" rotors sounds bad too me, why didn't they replace them?

 

[nny_ranger]

Did you try going somewhere else? Brakes aren't this complicated.

The rear calipers don't "compress" either, they screw in because of the ebrake design.
How does your ebrake work? i.e. does is hold okay? How far up does ebrake handle need to be pulled, grabs instantly or pulls part way up like normal?

"Pitted and blued" rotors sounds bad too me, why didn't they replace them?

Thanks for your reply! The Ebrake seems to work normally as it has in my other vehicles i've owned/ driven. My options where I live are severely limited unfortunately being such a small town. I will likely have to go a little further out for my next shop visit.

And you've got me on why they didn't replace them. Especially since I waited a month for the parts to even get to the dealer (Supposedly). They said they weren't warped so they weren't going to replace. Regardless of that, I felt they should have been replaced because they are not wearing normally at all and have been through a ton of abuse with burning up so many sets of pads on them so far.

It is all a big bummer for me. I've owned many Fords and never experienced anything like this. Leave it to my dream truck to burn me to the point of abandonment lol.

 

[jss81258]

Thanks for your reply! The Ebrake seems to work normally as it has in my other vehicles i've owned/ driven. My options where I live are severely limited unfortunately being such a small town. I will likely have to go a little further out for my next shop visit.

And you've got me on why they didn't replace them. Especially since I waited a month for the parts to even get to the dealer (Supposedly). They said they weren't warped so they weren't going to replace. Regardless of that, I felt they should have been replaced because they are not wearing normally at all and have been through a ton of abuse with burning up so many sets of pads on them so far.

It is all a big bummer for me. I've owned many Fords and never experienced anything like this. Leave it to my dream truck to burn me to the point of abandonment lol.

I haven't checked, but most rotors have a minimum thickness. So with excessive wear and turning, they might need to be replaced regardless of appearance.

 

[cfhgarza]

Check with your states laws but honestly it seems like it's time to ask about a lemon law buy back. Even if you don't go through with it they will probably be a little more motivated when you bring it up

 

[nny_ranger]

Check with your states laws but honestly it seems like it's time to ask about a lemon law buy back. Even if you don't go through with it they will probably be a little more motivated when you bring it up

I do need to look into it, just hate to have to go that far. Brakes are kind of the biggest deal when it comes to safety. Right next to airbags lol

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Sorry for the long wait on this guys. Ford looked at my truck and said my pad wear looks fine this time and my rotors aren't warped (even though they are pitted and blued from heat and being turned over and over). I am getting vibration when slowing down and they say it is the calipers binding. They took everything apart and greased it and still is happening. Not sure where I am going to go from here. Hopefully the pads will get a full life this time, but it doesn't look likely.

There's so much about this situation that doesn't sit well with me. The brake rotors and the dealership's unwillingness to replace parts. Gone are the days of being able to turn rotors on a lathe multiple times. Most brake rotors are now considered single use or only have just enough extra material that they can only safely be turned one time. After that they are so close to minimum thickness that they would have to be replaced after that if further machining is needed. I do not know if Ford put single use or minimal thickness rotors on, but given their cost cutting measures across the board it's not outside the realm of possibilities that they cut costs here too. If the rotors are single use/or allow for a single resurface and the dealership has turned these rotors to at or below the minimum safe level, then they are setting themselves up for a massive lawsuit should you or anyone else have their brakes fail as a result of their gross negligence. You would need to get the specs for the rotors and measure yours to see if they are still above the minimum thickness. An independent shop should be able to assist with this via a brake inspection. If you have this done and the rotors are below spec, then you need to if possible take it to another dealership to have them address this immediately. If that's not possible then notify Ford and inform them that this dealership is refusing to replace the components and has knowingly put the braking system into an unsafe configuration.

If Ford and/or the dealership pushes back even when provided documented proof from a certified shop that they caused this, look into hiring a lawyer to draft a letter to Ford/dealership citing this negligence and how they can be held liable should the brakes fail as a result of the dealership's actions. Many will do this for pro bono or charge a minimal fee for it. Hopefully you will not have to take it this far, but if you do typically things will get resolved amazingly fast.

 

[nny_ranger]

There's so much about this situation that doesn't sit well with me. The brake rotors and the dealership's unwillingness to replace parts. Gone are the days of being able to turn rotors on a lathe multiple times. Most brake rotors are now considered single use or only have just enough extra material that they can only safely be turned one time. After that they are so close to minimum thickness that they would have to be replaced after that if further machining is needed. I do not know if Ford put single use or minimal thickness rotors on, but given their cost cutting measures across the board it's not outside the realm of possibilities that they cut costs here too. If the rotors are single use/or allow for a single resurface and the dealership has turned these rotors to at or below the minimum safe level, then they are setting themselves up for a massive lawsuit should you or anyone else have their brakes fail as a result of their gross negligence. You would need to get the specs for the rotors and measure yours to see if they are still above the minimum thickness. An independent shop should be able to assist with this via a brake inspection. If you have this done and the rotors are below spec, then you need to if possible take it to another dealership to have them address this immediately. If that's not possible then notify Ford and inform them that this dealership is refusing to replace the components and has knowingly put the braking system into an unsafe configuration.

If Ford and/or the dealership pushes back even when provided documented proof from a certified shop that they caused this, look into hiring a lawyer to draft a letter to Ford/dealership citing this negligence and how they can be held liable should the brakes fail as a result of the dealership's actions. Many will do this for pro bono or charge a minimal fee for it. Hopefully you will not have to take it this far, but if you do typically things will get resolved amazingly fast.

Thank you for that info! This forum is a wealth of knowledge with things like this that I would never know... I also tend to be too nice of of a person in general so I am not great at pushing hard for things. I want to say the rotors have been turned every time the pads were replaced. But I can't be certain since it isn't listed on the work orders.

I guess I will start looking for a good independent shop to inspect them for me.

 

[landiscarrier]

Old post but I am having this same issue. One my 3rd caliper replacement and 3rd set of pads. It’s only the drivers side rear. Some days it’s fine. Other times it’s dragging so much the wheel is hot to the touch. Also replaced the rear brake line thinking maybe it collapsed.

 

[Trigganometry]

Old post but I am having this same issue. One my 3rd caliper replacement and 3rd set of pads. It’s only the drivers side rear. Some days it’s fine. Other times it’s dragging so much the wheel is hot to the touch. Also replaced the rear brake line thinking maybe it collapsed.

Did they do an ABS bleed? If you have Forscan you can do it yourself or the dealers computer can do it as well. Just a thought

 

[landiscarrier]

Did they do an ABS bleed? If you have Forscan you can do it yourself or the dealers computer can do it as well. Just a thought

I have forescan and have done it in the past. Thanks!

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