Cool - No codes, this makes it simple then
Googling that PN, I found this on Amazon.
They actually work great.
So with this someone could hack into your home network and get into your garage, hmmmmm. That is exactly why I have no smart devices, thermostats,, door locks, refridgerators, garage door openers, etc.
Thanks for all the info airlinetechAs far as the wiring, the Homelink is embedded into the visor and from what others have stated not easily removable so you will need to rewire the power feed for the visor itself. It is just a 2-wire connector. Power & Ground.
Now you have some options here, but it depends on if you have or plan on adding a tapped power source for the (Auto-Dimming) mirror - The popular spot for a Dash Cam (Tap)
As that is the closest spot to tap for (Switched Power)
That Power is Fuse 36 (BCM) it powers after the (Run/Start) Relay closes.
The wire feed comes up the (A-Pillar) to C913 - (Roughly - Dash Level)
Pin #5 = Courtesy Lighting (feeding all the overhead lights (including the Vanity Mirror) Power
Pin #7 = Auto-Dimming Mirror (Power)
Vanity Mirror (Visor) Connector = C907
The best thing would be to get a (Replacement) connector and just disconnect the OE and run a new power & ground source. No damage to the (OE) wiring and then cover/ protect the OE connector and securely stow it.
C-907 -- PN: WPT-1197 (Runs about $45.00) expensive but this will allow the mod to be done correctly and easy revert back to (OE)
or
Disconnect the Vanity (Visor) connector and cut the power feed wire allowing enough wire on the connector (side) for splicing and (resplicing) if wanting or needing to revert back to OE
This is the (Yellow/Green) Wire
If you choose this route, you will only need to splice (power) as the vanity mirror is already grounded.
I always prefer and recommend keeping the OE wire harness intact, when possible, vs cutting into any wire,
So now we need to figure out where to tap an alternate (switched power) source
The closest spot is the Auto-Dimming mirror power, and you can wire down to the C913 connector and (TAP) Pin #7 (Blue/Brown) wire.
Or
Run the wiring over to the mirror and tap the Power Wire There (C9039 - Pin #1 (Blue/Brown) wire
Or
Simply run the power feed down to the BCM (fuse box) and tap a (Switch Power) fuse
The Ground wire if using a new connector will just (Tap) back into the OE wiring harness and if cutting and splicing (at the mirror/visor) Power Only - just leave the ground as is.
As I stated earlier this MAY trigger a fault on the Courtesy Lighting circuit (FET) protection and it will see an open on the circuit, no IPC messages or lights but will show up in a scan of the BCM that's why I recommend doing this modification so it can be easily reverted back to OE as the BCM has the capability of shutting down the circuit (meaning all lighting on that circuit) so all courtesy lighting.
It may not do anything except show a faulted circuit with a BCM scan, so just putting out the possible outcome if you have issues after this modification so you can recover the circuit if needed.
Ref: Auto-Dim Mirror
C913 Location
To Remove the A-Pillar Trim panel, pull the weather strip out and gently pry the trim out towards you.
The Sunvisor - Connector will be accessible when you remove the visor
You should be able to route any wiring as needed without dropping the headliner.
It isn't user friendly. I tried so many things and somehow I finally got it to work. Hopefully I didn't wipe out my other garage doors.
