Help my 'MPG Mission'

Canadian Ranger

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Ford states 10,000 mile motor oil change interval (or once a year) for Motorcraft synthetic blend. What does Amsoil state for the oil change interval?

I'd like to put some actual numbers together to see if an owner really does save.
25 000 miles. You don't even have to do the math. Amsoil is a bit more per quart. But it's not 2.5 times more.
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Langwilliams

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Man I just buy Rotella gas truck syn for $21 a 5 qt jug an change it every 5K. My son in law runs Amsoil in his dodge diesel duelly an did the oil analysis to figure out max safe mileage per change. It's 12 qt capacity an the number of miles he drives it makes it a little more understandable. He may not even have to pay for it. He runs amsoil in his kids race quad an he's got a few sponsor an races nationally (a lot of the miles are towing a toy hauler)
 

Canadian Ranger

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Wow! Spoken like a true Amsoil fan boy, do you pay dues to be in that club or is just toting the company line enough.

First off, how do you know who wrote the fluid drain intervals with or without what technical input? Calling manufacturer oils subpar is a pretty broad and blatant statement. Yes the Ford recommended oil is a synthetic blend not a full synthetic oil. Yes car companies do not own refineries and neither does Amsoil, Their fluids are blends of products from various producers.

Second, you claim change intervals in excess of manufacture listed numbers. That can be a warranty breaker. Where is the testing data from independent sources to support/verify this. Most of us use full synthetic oil anyway so that is a non-argument. The rest of the statements in this paragraph are company claims that you have not shown us any third party independent verification for.

Most of the us who care about our vehicles enough to even consider paying the price for Amsoil products do not even think of running our fluids to the manufactures change intervals, much less the ones you are claiming. They don't wear out they get dirty. Amsoil will not, can not, stay any cleaner than any other oil/fluid brand. The contaminants are what causes extra unnecessary wear and tear.

As I was taught in my Kepner Tregoe training, without data you don't have a problem and one data point does not make a trend. So, unless you can give us scientific third party evidence of all you claims. Please quit toting it as some kind of miracle fluid that nobody else has.

Sorry to everyone for ranting, maybe it's the isolation, but this really gets to me. Give me facts and not seat of the pants impressions. I quest it is the retired designer/engineer in me.
Amsoil is blended components yes, but they're all synthetic components.
Full synthetic is just another term for synthetic blend. Parasynthetic, that's a new term you'll start seeing soon at Napa lol.
Amsoil is warranty secure.
Amsoil is cleaner because it remains viscous better, and the synthetic detergents keep what contaminants are in the oil, suspended in the oil and not collecting inside the motor.
Where's the independent testing on Mobile 1 and Motocraft? I don't think that exists anywhere.
 

Big Blue

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Amsoil is blended components yes, but they're all synthetic components.
Full synthetic is just another term for synthetic blend. Parasynthetic, that's a new term you'll start seeing soon at Napa lol.
Amsoil is warranty secure.
Amsoil is cleaner because it remains viscous better, and the synthetic detergents keep what contaminants are in the oil, suspended in the oil and not collecting inside the motor.
Where's the independent testing on Mobile 1 and Motocraft? I don't think that exists anywhere.
Again more company line speak! As far as warranty secure, only if changed within manufacture specified intervals not you exaggerated claimed intervals. You are playing a semantics game by calling Amsoil 100% synthetic and saying it's better than a full synthetic oil, all oils are a blend of components. Again with the claim it maintains, I assume you meant viscosity, better. Where's the testing. What makes your detergents much better than other oils. Contaminants in the oil are still Contaminants. Again Where's the testing. You make claims you better be able to back them up.

I don't ask for the other brands testing because they don't make the exaggerated claims that they are so much better, to justify charging so much more per unit

I can see this is a useless discussion as you will continue to parrot the company line with no factual verifiable data to back it up.

Good night
 

Canadian Ranger

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Again more company line speak! As far as warranty secure, only if changed within manufacture specified intervals not you exaggerated claimed intervals. You are playing a semantics game by calling Amsoil 100% synthetic and saying it's better than a full synthetic oil, all oils are a blend of components. Again with the claim it maintains, I assume you meant viscosity, better. Where's the testing. What makes your detergents much better than other oils. Contaminants in the oil are still Contaminants. Again Where's the testing. You make claims you better be able to back them up.

I don't ask for the other brands testing because they don't make the exaggerated claims that they are so much better, to justify charging so much more per unit

I can see this is a useless discussion as you will continue to parrot the company line with no factual verifiable data to back it up.

Good night
https://www.amsoil.ca/about/guarantee/
 


HotRod

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I'm on a mission. I have owned my Ranger for 2 weeks now. It's lifted and has big ol tires and a winch and all that good stuff. And I love the look of it. I do NOT love the MPG numbers. I'm averaging a pitiful 14.5. So, my mission is to get that up higher. My plans are to swap out the tires to a narrower AT tire, which should help a bit. But I'm asking you: What else should I do for some MPG help? Is there an MPG helping tune? What is the best bang for your buck to aid MPG?
As tfisher15 has mentioned keep it 70 or under on the highways and keep it under 2K when excelerating. Have you considered a pedal commander/ idrive / sprint booster etc. ? I recently did 1200 mile round trip, with 3 people and roughly 500 pounds of gear. Stock 2wd sport xlt crewcab with muffer delete and a pedal comander. I started with 91-93 octane. On my way out I reset my mpg monitor, put the pedal commander in eco mode and drove the speed limit pretty much everwhere. With slow starts under 2K rpm. When on the interstates ( about 400 miles worth )I kept it at 70 and used the cruise control as much as possible ( cruise cont gets no imput from the pedal commander tho) . When I arrived at my destination I rechecked my mpg and i was pleasantly surprised with 27.8 . On my way back with same people and cargo I ran 87 octane, reset my mpg monitor, disconnected the pedal commander, accelerated and merged with a lead foot and ran 80-85 on the inerstates again with lots of crusise control. Checked my mpg when i pulled into my driveway and it was 19.3. The pedal commander in eco mode certainly helps keep the acceleration slow and smooth, but significantly increases throttle resonse in the upper modes. Very fun in our trucks but certainly not " mission " specific for your purposes ? hope this helps.
 

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I'm on a mission. I have owned my Ranger for 2 weeks now. It's lifted and has big ol tires and a winch and all that good stuff. And I love the look of it. I do NOT love the MPG numbers. I'm averaging a pitiful 14.5. So, my mission is to get that up higher. My plans are to swap out the tires to a narrower AT tire, which should help a bit. But I'm asking you: What else should I do for some MPG help? Is there an MPG helping tune? What is the best bang for your buck to aid MPG?
Some members have reported mileage gains with the Velossa Tech Big Mouth. There is a whole thread devoted to it if you are interested. For my part, after my mods, including Ford Performance tune, Ford Performance levelling kit, heavier and more aggressive tires, my mileage tanked (sure, pun intended), falling from the low twenties to 18.5. None of this is surprising, and it is hard to know what is the most important factor, not to mention the fact that, with the pandemic and working from home, I do not travel on freeways or highways anymore. Anyway, I did order a Big Mouth, in blue, to match the truck, but have not installed it yet. Hopefully, once the Big Mouth is installed, the pandemic ended, and I am back to freeway flying, I can report some significant gains. Good luck on your mission!
 

HenryMac

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Wasatch Wranger

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Some members have reported mileage gains with the Velossa Tech Big Mouth. There is a whole thread devoted to it if you are interested. For my part, after my mods, including Ford Performance tune, Ford Performance levelling kit, heavier and more aggressive tires, my mileage tanked (sure, pun intended), falling from the low twenties to 18.5. None of this is surprising, and it is hard to know what is the most important factor, not to mention the fact that, with the pandemic and working from home, I do not travel on freeways or highways anymore. Anyway, I did order a Big Mouth, in blue, to match the truck, but have not installed it yet. Hopefully, once the Big Mouth is installed, the pandemic ended, and I am back to freeway flying, I can report some significant gains. Good luck on your mission!
I've definitely been interested in that Big Mouth. Let me know if it works for you. Seems too good to be true but for that price it's worth a shot certainly!
 

Langwilliams

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I installed one last fall an before the swap to winter blend I saw a slight increase...even if it's only half a mpg it will pay for it pretty quickly driving 15000 miles a year. I may have taken less of a hit on the winter blend but I really can't say for sure.
 

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25 000 miles. You don't even have to do the math. Amsoil is a bit more per quart. But it's not 2.5 times more.
25,000 mile oil change interval? Say goodbye to you engine warranty. If you think Magnuson Ross protects/allows you to extend manufacture recommended service intervals, you are sadly misinformed. It protects you using aftermarket parts and using non-manufacture service providers. Also, completing maintenance/install yourself as long as it was done according to manufacturers schedule and such part/install/service did not cause the failure.

Guess even your math was wrong, per @HenryMac .

Give it up!
 

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Going back to MPG, I also have two questions:

1) Is there an RPM range where the engine is most efficient wrt. gas consumption? I think saying "drive XX mph gives you best result" might be a misnomer, since it doesn't account for hills / load. But steeper the climb, or heavier the load, the RPM would go up for the same speed, so maybe a RPM range would be a better measure?

2) Octane Number. People ask me what gas I use, I say "car says regular", then they are shocked, "regular in a turbo"? "The intertubes" say that octane number is only for knock, and not for energy stored:



so how would better gas make a difference?

thanks for taking time to explain!
 

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1) Is there an RPM range where the engine is most efficient wrt. gas consumption? I think saying "drive XX mph gives you best result" might be a misnomer, since it doesn't account for hills / load. But steeper the climb, or heavier the load, the RPM would go up for the same speed, so maybe a RPM range would be a better measure?
I always try and keep it under 2000 rpm as best I can. Even when accelerating from a stop. The people around me aren't too happy when it takes me a mile or so to get up to speed, but I don't care. haha Obviously that's not always possible, but it's a good thing to shoot for I think.

The speed is also an important component though it's essentially measuring the amount of wind resistance you're encountering. Again, not always the most accurate or all encompassing, but it's a good thing to keep in mind and one of the factors involved.
 

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Groo here
Try this ,, when at lower speeds not on cruse ,use sport mode.
Once up to cruse and using cruse control, shift to drive.
I find the engine most happy around 2000 rpm..
Driving at low speeds allow the engine to lug to much in drive.
If you look at your mpg readouts [window] the difference will show.
Under 55 and on the flatter roads , the engine is just too slow , had some low hills and it is worse.
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