6ully
Member
Hello I'm really interested in this but I was curious if it would be strong enough to mount a 250 pound dirtbike on a rack to it? I saw there are CURT hitches but they are only rated for 350 pound tongue weight!
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@uthunter I got my kit in May as well and had it welded up... it is the off-set configuration like yours but it's been sitting in the truck bed since then ?I had a friend fab me an offset hitch from @Heavy Duty plans. It fit great and looked great on its maiden voyage on the White Rim Trail this weekend.
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I installed the same. Quite an easy installation. The only thing that was a bit of difficulty was trimming the plastic airdam for the hitch to fit but not a major problem.@uthunter I got my kit in May as well and had it welded up... it is the off-set configuration like yours but it's been sitting in the truck bed since then ?
So I came across a local trailer hitch shop and figured it's cold and snowy out, why not let them install it.
Then I got nervous that as a Lariat with all the bells and whistles (AMIP, etc.) could I trust them to not bugger up the electronics. So before I let them have it, I need to understand just how much of the front bumper/valance/skid plate has to come off to get it installed and is the electronics in the area a problem.
Seeing as you have the exact configuration I do, hoping you could shed some details of your install. Any "gotchas", etc. Thanks.
Thanks... I perceived that it was at least straight forward but good to know.I installed the same. Quite an easy installation. The only thing that was a bit of difficulty was trimming the plastic airdam for the hitch to fit but not a major problem.
Addressing each questionThanks... I perceived that it was at least straight forward but good to know.
Hopping for a little more detail on the process... like the following:
1. So can you just drop the "valance" section rather than the whole bumper cover??
2. In either case in 1 above, I'm guessing some electrical/electronic part(s) will need to be unplugged... THUS, disconnect the battery first... Yes??
3. Can you just let the skid plate "droop" , unbolt the tow hooks and slip the hitch up behind the valance (having NOT removing it) and bolt it and the tow hooks back in??
4. @Stevedbvik1 , not quite seeing where the airdam would need to be trimmed... seem the dam is quite a bit lower that hitch (though I have not been under there to look).
As I am still going to have the hitch shop do the work, I want to provide/review any "special" steps to do this job. This is why I'm looking for details.
I talked with the shop owner and he completely understands my concerns regarding damaging the AMIP system, etc.... 98% of the hitches are installed in the rear of the vehicle, not the front AND especially on newer electronic ladened bumpers. I told him I was going to check with ya'll here on the Forum for pointers and then proceed.
If I did, I can't find them. I do have the CAD drawing and this thread, which has good pictures but mostly full bumper off... partly why all my questions.Did you get my install instructions?
Great Thanks... as above, I, A. don't recall seeing any instructions; and B. looked in all my paper work for the Ranger and no can find.Addressing each question
1. Don’t need to do either
2. Nothing needs to be unplugged
3. I removed my skid plate , it’s easy.
4. Plastic shroud/ dam back behind the bumper that goes towards the bottom of the radiator, again very accessible after removing the skid plate.
The hitch should have come with instructions also.
$75 seems reasonable enough. Thanks for the reply.Well my buddy never got around to welding mine up, so I took it to a fab shop to have welded up and powder coated.
Weld assy together $110.00 sandblast and powder coat $75.00
Still waiting to get it back.
Could it be the hitch cover? Looks larger than others.UPDATE: The install was without issue... The shop was a trailer hitch specialty place... the tech had 26 years of experience... was not fazed at all by the install... but glad I had checked with you all first...
Thanks you all... much appreciated. AMIP still works... great job.
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Update 1/29/2025: IMO: The builder of this kit says for a AMIP equipped Ranger, move the tongue 4.5" to the driver side from center. I would recommend 5". Why: When I turn on AMIP, all is good for about 10-15 minutes of driving, then it turns off with an error message. I believe it can't see to the left without getting too many internal error message and after awhile it says I can't tolerate this any longer and shuts off. Now it MAY be the unit just going bad, I don't know. The extra .5" would just be cheap insurance in case the tongue is to close and blocking it's view.
I have considered that... just have not had a chance to remove it and see what happens... hopefully today...Could it be the hitch cover? Looks larger than others.