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EGR DPFE Sensor Assembly Replacement Write-Up (LB5Z-9J433-B)

2020FX4

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2020FX4

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No markings on this one what so ever...... 👎🏽

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TJC

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Clearly not Ford Stock... and maybe not even off the same manufacturing line. I've seen this happen on eBay and Amazon for this part. Wonder who manufactures them?

I guess it could be possible that the Ford Supplier could be manufacturing the part without the markings to get around the Ford contract.

The only way to know if it is reliable is to install it and see.
 
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bazoo

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Greetings All,

Dropping another one of my write-ups on the infamous bucking/surging epidemic our Rangers seem to have.
Check out the "Bucking/Surging Epidemic" thread started by @Tim Vogt Sr. for every piece of information you could want.
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/bucking-surging-epidemic.14581/
There are two ways to do this job, simply the replacing the DPFE Sensor itself (Ford KA1Z-5L200-A or KA1A-5L200-AB) or the entire assembly (Ford LB5Z-9J433-B). This write-up is geared towards replacing the entire assembly.

My symptoms were prevalent in the low RPM and low speed range. I drive like a peepaw and slowly pulling out of my driveway I would get a "misfire" feeling but no check engine light. I did my plugs last week so an actual misfire would be highly unlikely so my next step was the DPFE sensor. The transmission would search for gears at low RPMs and sometimes it would feel like driving a manual in too high of a gear through my neighborhood.

Supplies Needed :
-DPFE Sensor Assembly (Ford LB5Z-9J433-B) ($97 on @LevittownFordParts.com)
-3/8" or 1/4" Ratchet
-8mm shallow and deep sockets
-1.5" extension (if desired)
-Torque Wrench set to 97 in.lbs
-Needle Nose Pliers
-Straight-Jaw Pliers (I used my Milwaukee 6" 48-22-6306 pliers)
-LIGHT (Headlamp, Milwaukee Rover, etc)
-Work Platform or Step Ladder

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Step One :

Pop the hood and locate the DPFE sensor. It is located near the back side of the engine on the driver's side of your Ranger near the brake booster.

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STEP TWO : (*You could swap this with Step Three if desired)

Use your Ratchet and 8mm socket to loosen the single mounting bolt on the top. A deep socket is perfect for this without the brake booster being in the way.
Once you loosen the 8mm bolt, you can easily unthread it all the way using your fingertips to reduce the chances of dropping a socket or the bolt in to the engine bay.

*NOTE there is a washer with the 8mm bolt so be sure to not drop it.

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STEP THREE : (*You could swap this with Step Two if desired)

Remove the connector from the DPFE sensor. If you read my Spark Plug write up, the connector works just like the coil pack connectors. Use your fingernail to slide the locking tab out (circled) and wiggle the connector off.
You can hang the connector out of the way on the metal line in the top right of the photo below to prevent damage.

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STEP FOUR :

Une fois le capteur DPFE dévissé et débranché, vous pouvez le retirer pour accéder aux colliers à ressort des tuyaux. C'est là qu'une lampe est nécessaire. Notez l'orientation des colliers à ressort. Les miens étaient tous les deux orientés vers le haut. Retirer les colliers est la partie la plus difficile, alors restez calme et procédez lentement. J'ai commencé par le tuyau le plus court pour avoir plus de prise sur le tuyau le plus long.

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ÉTAPE CINQ :

Commencez par le tuyau le plus petit (le plus proche de vous) et descendez droit avec une pince à bec effilé (les plus longues semblaient plus efficaces). Lorsque j'ai pincé le collier à ressort et tiré vers le haut, le tuyau s'est détaché sans effort. Je n'ai pas eu à lutter. Une fois le tuyau retiré, vous pouvez le placer sur le côté ou à l'écart pour accéder facilement au tuyau long.

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ÉTAPE SIX :

Retirez le collier à ressort du tuyau le plus long (le plus éloigné de vous). Pour ma part, j'ai comprimé le collier à ressort, une pince dans la main droite, et tiré le tuyau horizontalement vers la droite avec la main gauche. Le capteur DPFE est maintenant complètement retiré.

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ÉTAPE SEPT :

Inversez ce que vous venez de faire aux étapes CINQ et SIX et prenez le nouveau capteur DPFE et faites glisser le long tuyau (le plus éloigné de vous) (clip jaune) en premier et le tuyau court (le plus proche de vous) (clip blanc) ensuite.
Alignez les pinces à ressort vers le haut autant que possible pour faciliter le travail la prochaine fois que vous devrez potentiellement l'effectuer.
Lorsque les tuyaux sont enfoncés aussi loin que possible, tournez les clips jaunes et blancs dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre pour retirer et engager les colliers à ressort.

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ÉTAPE HUIT :

Remontez votre nouveau capteur DPFE à l'aide de la goupille de guidage et vissez le boulon de 8 mm à la main jusqu'à ce qu'il soit bien serré pour éviter de fausser le filetage. Prenez votre clé dynamométrique réglée à 97 lb-pi et serrez le boulon de 8 mm . (Cela ne demande aucun effort et devrait s'enclencher en une ou deux secondes.)

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ÉTAPE NEUF :

Rebranchez le connecteur DPFE. Faites-le glisser jusqu'à entendre un clic, puis, avec votre doigt, enclenchez la languette de verrouillage blanche en la poussant de l'arrière vers vous.
Lancez votre Ranger pour voir si un voyant moteur ou un message d'erreur s'allume. Faites un tour dans votre quartier pour constater une amélioration des à-coups et des secousses à bas rapport. J'ai constaté une amélioration immédiate sur mon Ranger et il se conduit comme un camion neuf. L'avenir nous dira combien de temps durera le remplacement.

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Voilà ! Prenez une bière fraîche et savourez votre travail bien fait !:lunettes de soleil::bière:
Encore une fois, il m'a fallu plus de temps pour rédiger ce compte-rendu et prendre des photos que pour le travail lui-même. Je dirais que cela prend 30 à 45 minutes, à condition de ne pas perdre une douille ou un boulon dans le compartiment moteur.:craquement:
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bazoo

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Merci beaucoup pour ce post pour réparer ce que le concessionnaire n'a pas réussi à faire.:amoureux::p
 


LaBalbe

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Merci beaucoup pour ce post pour réparer ce que le concessionnaire n'a pas réussi à faire.:amoureux::p
Bienvenue, Mario. Tu verras, on peut être ironique et même un peu moquer, mais c'est un bon groupe avec pleins de bons tuyaux qu'on n'hésite pas à partager.
 

Beez

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Sooooo ANYWAY. - Has anyone at all made any noteworthy D&E attempts at successfully adapting a water catch can set up to address the ongoing moisture issue? I've considered trying to macgyver something from a 1/4" mini sprayer desiccant bottle, but am concerned that this might risk some sort of negative change to the pressure differential that the sensor monitors....or worse like riping a new hole in the universe.
 

TJC

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Sooooo ANYWAY. - Has anyone at all made any noteworthy D&E attempts at successfully adapting a water catch can set up to address the ongoing moisture issue? I've considered trying to macgyver something from a 1/4" mini sprayer desiccant bottle, but am concerned that this might risk some sort of negative change to the pressure differential that the sensor monitors....or worse like riping a new hole in the universe.
I thought about it, but heat is too high in the EGR tube to allow a desiccant to work. Silica desiccants will not trap water vapor at the EGR temps. The only desiccant that may work is Activated Alumina. It releases water vapor at 350F - 600F, but the lower threshold is very close to the EGR tube temp. Not optimal. And to recharge requires a great deal of heat, up to 600F, doable but you'd need to monitor the temp very closely.
 

2021Ranger

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Did anyone try the amazon replacement?
 

Tfcurranjr

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I’m the original owner of a 2019 XLT FX4 with 65,000 miles. It’s bone stock except for an MBRP exhaust. It’s never had a ‘tune’; I don’t tow with it and a lot of the mileage is highway. At @ 60,000 miles, it started to exhibit issues I thought were transmission-only related: Shifts were hard/‘clunky’, with ‘bucking’ especially in the higher gears (7-10); it also tried to shift at relatively slow speeds, in "Drive" & would then ‘hunt’ back & forth continuously. I’d eventually lock those gears out, or shift ‘manually’ in Sport mode. Had some minor RPM surging when shifting into 4th, but never any slipping in any gear.

One other odd thing: A very slight hesitation when accelerating off-idle. (That should’ve been the clue…)

I’ve never had an OBD code for anything.

I did my own tranny drain/fill & filter change. The fluid was coffee-colored with some metal on the magnet; fortunately, at least, it did not smell ‘burned’. The filter was extremely dirty. I let it drip overnight and recovered almost 9 quarts of ATF.

I also ‘reprogrammed’ the throttle position sensor… of course, this didn’t solve anything.

Finally… I swapped out the DPFE sensor with an aftermarket assembly (EZROAD) through Amazon.

That cured everything.
 

ChiefQM

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What is different about your 2019...I have one and was considering changing the EGR. Thanks, Jim
My response about 'it' was to a photo posted a bit before my response was posted. The person who posted had a question about a thick hose that partially blocked access to the the DPFE sensor - My 2019 did not have that hose in the way. I replaced mine twice.
 

hughesjv

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My response about 'it' was to a photo posted a bit before my response was posted. The person who posted had a question about a thick hose that partially blocked access to the the DPFE sensor - My 2019 did not have that hose in the way. I replaced mine twice.
I like that answer. The clamps around the hoses that connect to the EGR are reusable? Thanks in advance...Jim
 

RangerBill

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I like that answer. The clamps around the hoses that connect to the EGR are reusable? Thanks in advance...Jim
The hoses connect to the DPFE sensor, not the EGR valve. The hose clamps closest to the sensor are not replaceable and need to be cut off and can be replaced with worm screw clamps.
 

hughesjv

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The hoses connect to the DPFE sensor, not the EGR valve. The hose clamps closest to the sensor are not replaceable and need to be cut off and can be replaced with worm screw clamps.
Thank you, that helps. I was looking at the picture, and they did not look replaceable but I thought, maybe I am missing something...Jim
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