Drive shaft replacement issues and other nightmares

[Big Blue]

The shaft, absolutely. By assembly I mean trans/shaft/diff.

Why would those be taken off the replace the center bearing?

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[ctechbob]

Why would those be taken off the replace the center bearing?

They wouldn't. I was mainly just remarking on the fact that a lof of people swear that you have to get the flange on the back of the driveshaft reinstalled in the exact same location as it came off (of the differential). Its just not so. They don't balance the whole drivetrain as an assembly, so there's no real need to do it. It is a good idea, but not strictly necessary. It is necessary to get the two halves of the shaft back together same as they came apart though.

 

[TJC]

They wouldn't. I was mainly just remarking on the fact that a lof of people swear that you have to get the flange on the back of the driveshaft reinstalled in the exact same location as it came off (of the differential). Its just not so. They don't balance the whole drivetrain as an assembly, so there's no real need to do it. It is a good idea, but not strictly necessary. It is necessary to get the two halves of the shaft back together same as they came apart though.

When I mentioned marking the driveshaft I was assuming that the two part shaft had to be separated to install the center bearing. Marking the two shafts insured they go back together in the correct clock positions.

The easiest driveshaft fix is to order a Tom Wioods single drive shaft. I installed mine and no longer even think about it. I grease the slip joint annually, a 2 minute job. No more slow speed vibrations, no more "helter skelter" high speed shakes above 75mph. Just a nice smooth ride right through the power band. Hands down the best upgrade that I have made. (I don't consider the transmission fix (fluid change with LubeGard) or the upgraded silicone hose bridge on the clutch fan to be upgrades, but both are right up there in seriousness.)

 

[Big Blue]

When I mentioned marking the driveshaft I was assuming that the two part shaft had to be separated to install the center bearing. Marking the two shafts insured they go back together in the correct clock positions.

The whole point I have been trying to make is that in order to take the old bearing off and press a new one on. You need to disassemble the U-joint after the bearing and remove the U-joint yoke from the end of the shaft. If this yoke, which is splined to the shaft, is not installed in exactly the same orientation as it was and the U-joint is not assembled exactly the same either, the shaft will not be phased properly or in balance. This is why the dealers are instructed to replace the entire shaft as an assembly for a bearing failure.

 

[TJC]

The whole point I have been trying to make is that in order to take the old bearing off and press a new one on. You need to disassemble the U-joint after the bearing and remove the U-joint yoke from the end of the shaft. If this yoke, which is splined to the shaft, is not installed in exactly the same orientation as it was and the U-joint is not assembled exactly the same either, the shaft will not be phased properly or in balance. This is why the dealers are instructed to replace the entire shaft as an assembly for a bearing failure.

Now I'm Following you! Thanks for the clarification.

 

[2021Ranger]

I’m in northern NJ and have a used one out of my 21 ranger that’s only has 10 thousand miles on it.. You can have it for $100 bucks. Come get it..

 

[Indy650]

If the hubs are making noise, they're done. Replace time. Not worth the effort to try and mess around with them.

Yeah of course I'm thinking longevity with new ones. A simple grease fitting with a weep hole seems to me it would result in longer use. My first one went out at 50k that's just unacceptable.

 

[Indy650]

I agree completely with you, but in this case the Ford dealer did not do the bearing replacement. For the OP, did the Ford dealer just say it was installed properly? What about ASSEMBLED properly? It can be assem led wrong and still look INSTALLED properly. Does the dealer, or the shop that did the work, even know that the shaft is supposed to be slightly "out of phase"? The dealers normally just replace the entire shaft assembly.

Maybe I didn't clarify but it was a complete driveshaft replacement. I wouldn't bother trying to go the other route and I haven't even found where you can order just the center bearing. Dealer recommends complete shaft replacement

 

[Indy650]

End result the entire rear end is shot. Looking at almost 5k in repairs. 73k almost exclusively driven on road/highway. Wheel bearing at 50k now this I'm not impressed with this truck. As a mechanic myself I'm meticulous with it always changing the oil and keeping up on maintenance and already the oil has the presence of fuel in it as well which doesn't impress me either. Oh well it's possible I got a lemon I have always had terrible luck.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah of course I'm thinking longevity with new ones. A simple grease fitting with a weep hole seems to me it would result in longer use. My first one went out at 50k that's just unacceptable.

Not sure how or where you would drill a grease fitting through a sealed bearing cage.

I have pulled seals out of bearings and packed them with higher quality grease before. That's about the only think I would think you could do to these hubs.

 

[Indy650]

Not sure how or where you would drill a grease fitting through a sealed bearing cage.

I have pulled seals out of bearings and packed them with higher quality grease before. That's about the only think I would think you could do to these hubs.

Yeah you're right upon looking at them there's definitely not

Not sure how or where you would drill a grease fitting through a sealed bearing cage.

I have pulled seals out of bearings and packed them with higher quality grease before. That's about the only think I would think you could do to these hubs.

I've added grease fittings to some other types of hubs but yeah this design won't work for that now that I'm looking at it. I do have a tube of super expensive bearing grease used in the crank bearings for rotax engines in skidoo snowmobiles I guessing that's probably far higher quality than what for uses. It's like 100 bucks for a little tube.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah you're right upon looking at them there's definitely not

I've added grease fittings to some other types of hubs but yeah this design won't work for that now that I'm looking at it. I do have a tube of super expensive bearing grease used in the crank bearings for rotax engines in skidoo snowmobiles I guessing that's probably far higher quality than what for uses. It's like 100 bucks for a little tube.

Yea, guys in the Miata world that race seriously take their front hubs and pack them with new grease, just about all you can do to make them last a little longer. I never raced all that seriously so I never burned one up.

 

[SymChris]

End result the entire rear end is shot. Looking at almost 5k in repairs. 73k almost exclusively driven on road/highway.

What’s the other part of “almost exclusively“? Was it off-road and maybe through water? I’m just wondering as I’m in the same mileage range as you, and many are even further along without an issue like that.

It seems like a one-off but a steep cost to you, sucks for sure,, sorry to hear this.

p.s. the reason I asked the above is because something that hasn’t changed over the years is that having drivetrain components submerged in water means they need to be inspected and if they use fluid or grease they really need to checked/changed.

 

[Metalshift]

End result the entire rear end is shot. Looking at almost 5k in repairs. 73k almost exclusively driven on road/highway. Wheel bearing at 50k now this I'm not impressed with this truck. As a mechanic myself I'm meticulous with it always changing the oil and keeping up on maintenance and already the oil has the presence of fuel in it as well which doesn't impress me either. Oh well it's possible I got a lemon I have always had terrible luck.

It would be nice to see some pictures of what actually failed in the rear axle and how many parts are salvagable. Was it low on oil ?

 

[Indy650]

It would be nice to see some pictures of what actually failed in the rear axle and how many parts are salvagable. Was it low on oil ?

Yeah it would. I think the center shaft bearing being bad caused the rear end to go. They said the whole thing needs to be rebuilt. This is the downside of not being able to do my own work anymore I don't get a glimpse of the damages and I'm sure I could have done it myself for half the cost if that. It just bewilders me that this truck even has a center bearing on the driveshaft it's totally unnecessary.

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