Drive shaft replacement issues and other nightmares

[Indy650]

Howdy... I've found it's about impossible to find a good mechanic these days. Hurt my back so I can't do my own work anymore. One shop replaced my brakes and the rear calipers were both dragging. Brand new calipers too. Anyway the center bearing for the drive shaft was shot on my 2019 ranger and I had a shop I thought I trusted install it and now any speed over 40 it vibrates. I'm guessing that center bearing needs to be calibrated somehow and I'm hoping there's someone here that would know if it's something a dealer needs to do. I hate all the Ford dealers in my area but if it's a must I'll do it. I'd rather not go back to the other garages anyway. The local cole muffler/Mavis I watched the assistant manager try to mount a new tire on a rim for 20 minutes straight. (he never succeeded) Sorry for the long rant and thanks? oh and kudos to the mechanics out there that actually know what they are doing and not to ashamed to admit when they don't.

Sponsored

 

[RangerBill]

When they took it apart, they may not have reassembled it in phase, causing the driveshaft to be out of balance.

 

[got3fords]

Spring for a Tom Woods driveshaft and have the most respected indy install it. I hear it's not hard to do yourself but given your circumstances...

 

[Big Blue]

When they took it apart, they may not have reassembled it in phase, causing the driveshaft to be out of balance.

Yeah, I am pretty sure the slip joint splines a keyed to only fit one way, I'm not sure about the yoke to the front shaft though. The yoke on the front shaft needs to be pressed off to change the bearing. I do know there is an intentional, what has been called, out of phase setting on the front shaft. The shop may have not marked the yoke to shaft position and just put it in phase by mistake. This would affect the shaft assembled balance and cause a speed pulsation in the differential input shaft. This is probably why the dealers replace the whole shaft for a bearing failure.

Side note: I have never understood the reason for this out of phase positioning on a 3 Cardan joint driveshaft, or given an explanation for how it works. But, it appears to be common practice.

 

[ctechbob]

Yeah, I am pretty sure the slip joint splines a keyed to only fit one way, I'm not sure about the yoke to the front shaft though. The yoke on the front shaft needs to be pressed off to change the bearing. I do know there is an intentional, what has been called, out of phase setting on the front shaft. The shop may have not marked the yoke to shaft position and just put it in phase by mistake. This would affect the shaft assembled balance and cause a speed pulsation in the differential input shaft. This is probably why the dealers replace the whole shaft for a bearing failure.

Side note: I have never understood the reason for this out of phase positioning on a 3 Cardan joint driveshaft, or given an explanation for how it works. But, it appears to be common practice.

They are, but it can be done 180 deg out. Been there done that. And that is exactly what it feels like, fine at low speeds, low frequency vibration over 40.

 

[Big Blue]

They are, but it can be done 180 deg out. Been there done that. And that is exactly what it feels like, fine at low speeds, low frequency vibration over 40.

I haven't relubed my spline joint yet, on the list for next spring when it warms up again. ? they also need to make sure and mark the flange at the differential too.

 

[ctechbob]

I haven't relubed my spline joint yet, on the list for next spring when it warms up again. ? they also need to make sure and mark the flange at the differential too.

That won't matter at all. It isn't balanced with the diff connected.

I thought that the driveshaft was one way keyed and didn't mark it the last time I lubed. I love doing things twice.......

But, now everyone else knows.

 

[Indy650]

Lots of good stuff thanks to all! That's why I love this site it can be very hard to find a forum with so many knowledgeable members. I wish I could just get rid of that center bearing all together the truck is short enough it really doesn't need it. Also kinda terrible it was totally beat at 65 thousand miles. Of course the driver wheel bearings went at 50 so maybe trucks are just getting weaker idk. Anyway really appreciate the knowledge here!

 

[Indy650]

So Ford dealer says the driveshaft is installed correctly but he says the pinion seal is leaking and thinks the vibration is coming from the rear end. I'm guessing the center bearing being blown out caused the rear-end to have issues. Will hear more later today. Oh also I asked one of the other shops(the one with the asst manager that can't change a tire) to check the front right wheel bearings which they said was fine and Ford confirms it needs to be replaced. Has anyone tried removing the inner bearing seals and putting a grease fitting and a weep hole in the front hubs? Maybe that's a stupid idea idk. Just seems ridiculous to buy the whole assembly when it's just the bearings.

 

[ctechbob]

So Ford dealer says the driveshaft is installed correctly but he says the pinion seal is leaking and thinks the vibration is coming from the rear end. I'm guessing the center bearing being blown out caused the rear-end to have issues. Will hear more later today. Oh also I asked one of the other shops(the one with the asst manager that can't change a tire) to check the front right wheel bearings which they said was fine and Ford confirms it needs to be replaced. Has anyone tried removing the inner bearing seals and putting a grease fitting and a weep hole in the front hubs? Maybe that's a stupid idea idk. Just seems ridiculous to buy the whole assembly when it's just the bearings.

If the hubs are making noise, they're done. Replace time. Not worth the effort to try and mess around with them.

 

[TJC]

They are, but it can be done 180 deg out. Been there done that. And that is exactly what it feels like, fine at low speeds, low frequency vibration over 40.

Mechanics 101, mark the parts before disassembly to insure you put it back on exactly as positioned originally. Ford should not be making this rookie mistake.... further a quick test drive would have found the issue and had it corrected BEFORE the customer finds it for you.

That is 2 strikes... hard to make this a good situation at this point. Best Ford can do is fall on their sword and correct it.

 

[ctechbob]

Mechanics 101, mark the parts before disassembly to insure you put it back on exactly as positioned originally. Ford should not be making this rookie mistake.... further a quick test drive would have found the issue and had it corrected BEFORE the customer finds it for you.

That is 2 strikes... hard to make this a good situation at this point. Best Ford can do is fall on their sword and correct it.

Absolutely.

Always best to put it back the way it came off, but my point was, the driveline isn't balanced as an assembly, so it really isn't critical to get the flange back on as it came off.

Definitely want to get the two halves of the shaft back together as they were......

 

[Big Blue]

Mechanics 101, mark the parts before disassembly to insure you put it back on exactly as positioned originally. Ford should not be making this rookie mistake.... further a quick test drive would have found the issue and had it corrected BEFORE the customer finds it for you.

That is 2 strikes... hard to make this a good situation at this point. Best Ford can do is fall on their sword and correct it.

I agree completely with you, but in this case the Ford dealer did not do the bearing replacement. For the OP, did the Ford dealer just say it was installed properly? What about ASSEMBLED properly? It can be assem led wrong and still look INSTALLED properly. Does the dealer, or the shop that did the work, even know that the shaft is supposed to be slightly "out of phase"? The dealers normally just replace the entire shaft assembly.

 

[Big Blue]

Absolutely.

Always best to put it back the way it came off, but my point was, the driveline isn't balanced as an assembly, so it really isn't critical to get the flange back on as it came off.

Definitely want to get the two halves of the shaft back together as they were......

In this case I believe the entire shaft IS balanced as an assembly. That's why the only way you a can buy it is as an assembly. You can not get just a front or rear shaft. So when replacing the bearing it is critical to get the yoke positioned correctly on the shaft and the U joint reassembled exactly as it was originally.

 

[ctechbob]

In this case I believe the entire shaft IS balanced as an assembly. That's why the only way you a can buy it is as an assembly. You can not get just a front or rear shaft. So when replacing the bearing it is critical to get the yoke positioned correctly on the shaft and the U joint reassembled exactly as it was originally.

The shaft, absolutely. By assembly I mean trans/shaft/diff.

Sponsored