Battery saver 2nd battery

[Rrrr-Anger19]

After doing my research I found most retail batteries are poorly maintained by staff working those establishments... take your pick they are all subject. They wouldn't be offering such a lengthy warranty if they knew their product was top shelf... they know they're all compromised. So take into consideration that savings on the cheap battery... then add the gas to go get a replacement, your time waiting in line, and your time installing the new one. Doesn't seem so sweet anymore does it?

I did a deep dive on batteries last year when I figured my 2019 was getting close to needing one (didn't have issue... just didn't want to press my luck) and I settled on buying a Weize Battery. Not the cheapest but I got a pretty low price off Amazon at the time from what I could find online. Shipped right to my door and has been perfect since. Even replaced my wife's Landrover which loves to eat batteries with a Weize and its still holding max charge. I check both vehicles bi-monthly.

If you're in a pinch and just need something. fine get the Walmart battery. Otherwise don't get caught with your pants down and plan the best purchase for yourself. Don't waste your time trying to solve the weak link and just get a better battery, otherwise you're just making things more expensive when the added cost will just get you a better product and solve your problem.

Not saying get a Weize, but research what battery will best suit your needs and get that one.

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[TJC]

I also have a '21, bought in April, so I'm going on 5 years on original battery. I run an onboard desulfator. Not sure how much it helps, but so far so good.

That BatteryMinder Onboard Desulfator will pay for itself over and over again. Don't leave home without one!

Now that is one beautiful Ranger - Just like mine... There is no accounting for fine taste!

 

[TJC]

After doing my research I found most retail batteries are poorly maintained by staff working those establishments... take your pick they are all subject. They wouldn't be offering such a lengthy warranty if they knew their product was top shelf... they know they're all compromised. So take into consideration that savings on the cheap battery... then add the gas to go get a replacement, your time waiting in line, and your time installing the new one. Doesn't seem so sweet anymore does it?

I did a deep dive on batteries last year when I figured my 2019 was getting close to needing one (didn't have issue... just didn't want to press my luck) and I settled on buying a Weize Battery. Not the cheapest but I got a pretty low price off Amazon at the time from what I could find online. Shipped right to my door and has been perfect since. Even replaced my wife's Landrover which loves to eat batteries with a Weize and its still holding max charge. I check both vehicles bi-monthly.

If you're in a pinch and just need something. fine get the Walmart battery. Otherwise don't get caught with your pants down and plan the best purchase for yourself. Don't waste your time trying to solve the weak link and just get a better battery, otherwise you're just making things more expensive when the added cost will just get you a better product and solve your problem.

Not saying get a Weize, but research what battery will best suit your needs and get that one.

Manufacturers no longer supply a manufactured date. A sticker is placed on the battery at the time of sale or even earlier. Several years ago I refused to buy a battery with an older date on it. The kid behind the counter took the battery in the back and simply swapped stickers! I caught him in the act. I then asked him to explain how the store/manufacturer new battery process worked. Seems that they have charger banks to keep the batteries on shelf life support. Once they pass a certain threshold they send them back to the manufacturer. He did not explain what the "threshold" was but I suspect it is the internal resistance of the battery. Your new battery could be a year or 2 old when you install it.

That said, if they use a high quality desulfating charger system, the battery life will be extended dramatically. The kid behind the counter would not let me view their setup, so I had to take his word for it. He really didn't know very much about auto batteries, just trained on the process and did what he was told.

 

[Rrrr-Anger19]

Manufacturers no longer supply a manufactured date. A sticker is placed on the battery at the time of sale or even earlier. Several years ago I refused to buy a battery with an older date on it. The kid behind the counter took the battery in the back and simply swapped stickers! I caught him in the act. I then asked him to explain how the store/manufacturer new battery process worked. Seems that they have charger banks to keep the batteries on shelf life support. Once they pass a certain threshold they send them back to the manufacturer. He did not explain what the "threshold" was but I suspect it is the internal resistance of the battery. Your new battery could be a year or 2 old when you install it.

That said, if they use a high quality desulfating charger system, the battery life will be extended dramatically. The kid behind the counter would not let me view their setup, so I had to take his word for it. He really didn't know very much about auto batteries, just trained on the process and did what he was told.

This is the problem with service workers. Years ago there was a level of excellence you could literally count on to such a degree a warranty was just a cherry topper and not a necessity! I don't trust a single word out of anyone working anywhere anymore. I do all my upfront research which hasn't failed me thus far and if so I can only blame myself.

Stay frosty people, and don't relax thinking some stranger has your back!

 

[Motorpsychology]

Im going to try that. I did a charger but it's still going back to battery saver. According to my charger, it's reading 12.4 volts before i charged it

What are your driving habits? Mostly short trips of 5 miles or less will not charge the battery sufficiently.

 

[Frenchy]

What are your driving habits? Mostly short trips of 5 miles or less will not charge the battery sufficiently.

Getting individuals to understand this even when the variable voltage is disabled is something else.

 

[Jmarler]

Drive 20 miles to and back to work. Then food runs. I had it on the charger last night and it didn't improve. Still going to battery saver. Also grounded it the right way. Last hope is the forscan option.

Going to try Walmart and see if they will replace it with the warranty.

 

[TJC]

Our entire society is based upon educating people just enough to do a job, but not so much that they begin to question authority, or the process. They want worker bee lemmings... not free thinking individuals. 95% of the population is asleep, eyes tightly closed.

It's a Brave New World

I have a friend who moved to and lives in Mexico on the Pacific coast. He says he has far more freedom there than in the USA. The government is too weak to enforce the law, and the cartels keep them at bay. He says "mind your business and go about your life" and things work out just fine.

Disclaimer:
He's been down there for 20 years now. I only know what he has told me. No first hand experience.

 

[RangerBill]

Nothing different. It gets 14v when driving but still goes battery saver. My last battery was 2.5 years

When you used the charger, did you put the negative lead to chassis and not the battery negative terminal? You want chassis ground so the BMS knows how much of a charge went into the battery.

 

[TJC]

Drive 20 miles to and back to work. Then food runs. I had it on the charger last night and it didn't improve. Still going to battery saver. Also grounded it the right way. Last hope is the forscan option.

Going to try Walmart and see if they will replace it with the warranty.

Pick up a battery tester. Viking ($35) or TopDon (a little more expensive) both make fine units. Harborfreight stocks the Viking in store.

Then check the health of your battery. If your internal resistance is >5 mOhms you'll need to desulfate the battery for any hope of recovery.

If you install a BatteryMinder onboard desulfator your battery life will double.

My auto batteries last at least 10 years. My ranger battery is in great condition at ~6 years old. The desulaftor is a simple install and forget about it device. Each time you drive your truck it will automatically desulfate the battery.

Ford intentionally keeps the battery State of Charge at 75%. The battery's internal resistance will steadily increase without increasing the State of Charge and / or addressing the sulfation issue. Ideally, you need to do both.
At $60 - $70, the desulfator pays for itself relatively quickly.

There are cheap imitations on the market, but I have not had good luck with them. RVUprades has the best price that I have found at $66

Here'my latest battery test results on the original battery

State of Health - 100%​

State of Charge - 100%​

Measured CCA - 913 (that's 127% of the stated rating of the battery when new - 720CCA)​

Voltage - 12.89v​

Internal Resistance - 3.28mOhms (this is an excellent reading)​

 

[Jmarler]

Yeah i did. I looked at the other posts on here and saw a picture where to clip it.

 

[Jmarler]

Pick up a battery tester. Viking ($35) and TopDon (a little more expensive) both make fine units. Harborfreight stocks the Viking in store.

Then check the health of your battery. If your internal resistance is >5 mOhms you'll need to desulfate the battery for any hope of recovery.

If you install a BatteryMinder onboard desulfator your battery life will double.

My auto batteries last at least 10 years. My ranger battery is in great condition at ~6 years old. The desulaftor is a simple install and forget about it device. Each time you drive your truck it will automatically desulfate the battery.

Ford intentionally keeps the battery State of Charge at 75%. The battery's internal resistance will steadily increase without increasing the State of Charge and / or addressing the sulfation issue. Ideally, you need to do both.
At $60 - $70, the desulfator pays for itself relatively quickly.

There are cheap imitations on the market, but I have not had good luck with them. RVUprades has the best price that I have found at $66

Here'my latest battery test results on the original battery

State of Health - 100%​

State of Charge - 100%​

Measured CCA - 913 (that's 127% of the stated rating of the battery when new - 720CCA)​

Voltage - 12.89v​

Internal Resistance - 3.28mOhms (this is an excellent reading)​

Cool thanks. I will check it out.

 

[airline tech]

I have a hunch here that the BMS Sensor is false reporting data, and this is the reason for your Battery Save - Message
So, if the battery tests good and it has a Low IR then I suspect the BMS sensor, you may try a BMS Reset first - since it was not c/w with the battery replacement.
I would be curious what the BCM PID reads for the SOC as it comes from the BMS Sensor.
Note: Forscan will not display this PID


The System Off to Save Battery Message:
We know that the BMS Sensor (what it is reading) triggers this message, but I believe it's not really about the actual battery voltage reading, it's what the BMS Sensor is registering as the SOC reading.
This would explain why you have a good battery voltage test (12.2 Volts or Greater) but if you get this message (Check what the BCM is showing for the Estimated Battery SOC) this calculated reading comes from the BMS Sensor- it periodically updates the sensor while driving and performs a (True & Accurate) reading during sleep (rest)
Note: I think what is happening over time this sensor builds a (Drift Error) and reports false readings - throwing off the charging system and minimum error parameters that trigger the message.
Be it a - Sidetrack of the manuals and perform a BMS Reset, although there is only one Ford Document (GSB) that calls for a BMS Reset for System Error (T-Shoot) most of the document's state only with Battery Replacement
or
Replace as a precautionary maintenance item - depending on what your PID data is showing.

 

[TJC]

I have a hunch here that the BMS Sensor is false reporting data, and this is the reason for your Battery Save - Message
So, if the battery tests good and it has a Low IR then I suspect the BMS sensor, you may try a BMS Reset first - since it was not c/w with the battery replacement.
I would be curious what the BCM PID reads for the SOC as it comes from the BMS Sensor.
Note: Forscan will not display this PID


The System Off to Save Battery Message:
We know that the BMS Sensor (what it is reading) triggers this message, but I believe it's not really about the actual battery voltage reading, it's what the BMS Sensor is registering as the SOC reading.
This would explain why you have a good battery voltage test (12.2 Volts or Greater) but if you get this message (Check what the BCM is showing for the Estimated Battery SOC) this calculated reading comes from the BMS Sensor- it periodically updates the sensor while driving and performs a (True & Accurate) reading during sleep (rest)
Note: I think what is happening over time this sensor builds a (Drift Error) and reports false readings - throwing off the charging system and minimum error parameters that trigger the message.
Be it a - Sidetrack of the manuals and perform a BMS Reset, although there is only one Ford Document (GSB) that calls for a BMS Reset for System Error (T-Shoot) most of the document's state only with Battery Replacement
or
Replace as a precautionary maintenance item - depending on what your PID data is showing.

Is it possible that the battery is showing proper voltage, but when under load the amperage (and voltage) drops? I've seen batteries that fail in this manner.

Voltage is fine until you stress test with a load, raising amperage requirements. The BMS sensor also reports amperage. Just a guess, trying to cover all the possibilities.

You are right about the 12.2v reading, it is low, but the BMS intentionally keeps it low.

 

[Frenchy]

I have a hunch here that the BMS Sensor is false reporting data, and this is the reason for your Battery Save - Message
So, if the battery tests good and it has a Low IR then I suspect the BMS sensor, you may try a BMS Reset first - since it was not c/w with the battery replacement.
I would be curious what the BCM PID reads for the SOC as it comes from the BMS Sensor.
Note: Forscan will not display this PID


The System Off to Save Battery Message:
We know that the BMS Sensor (what it is reading) triggers this message, but I believe it's not really about the actual battery voltage reading, it's what the BMS Sensor is registering as the SOC reading.
This would explain why you have a good battery voltage test (12.2 Volts or Greater) but if you get this message (Check what the BCM is showing for the Estimated Battery SOC) this calculated reading comes from the BMS Sensor- it periodically updates the sensor while driving and performs a (True & Accurate) reading during sleep (rest)
Note: I think what is happening over time this sensor builds a (Drift Error) and reports false readings - throwing off the charging system and minimum error parameters that trigger the message.
Be it a - Sidetrack of the manuals and perform a BMS Reset, although there is only one Ford Document (GSB) that calls for a BMS Reset for System Error (T-Shoot) most of the document's state only with Battery Replacement
or
Replace as a precautionary maintenance item - depending on what your PID data is showing.

Keep in mind that many batteries out there are absolute garbage. Very rarely isn't that sensor on the negative cable. All that sensor does is measure the Amps going in and out of that battery.

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