Aux upfitter switch wiring

Synyster06Gates

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Im assuming the fuse can be switched. I.E. i want to use multiple auxiliary devices that require 10A. I can switch out the 5A fuse with a 10A in AUX 4, per say. ???
No, the wiring is still a limiting factor. They are different gauges based on the rated amperage.
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Albert_636

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No, the wiring is still a limiting factor. They are different gauges based on the rated amperage.
Not calling you a liar by any means. Do you have supporting evidence because all those wires looked the same to me. But then again, I’m no expert.
 

TuggerNutz

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Not calling you a liar by any means. Do you have supporting evidence because all those wires looked the same to me. But then again, I’m no expert.
I believe him. Just checked mine out. They're different wire gauges. I used to make serial cables back in the day. It's totally possible to change out the smaller wires for thicker ones.

There's some pictures of fuse box an Australian yanked out of his ranger. You can definitely see the difference in wire sizes.
 


Nabbys17

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@overanger has a picture with his hand showing a small bundle of wires, these are the 6 seperate auxiliary outputs. Separating the bundle will reveal the individual wire colours (each circuit).

When a upfitter switch is turned on, 12v will be available on its respective circuit via a fuse and a relay. To quote from @Overangers manual, Switch 1 is a 25Amp supply connected to the yellow wire.

If you wanted to connect a set of spotlights for example, the positive wire of the lights could connect to the yellow wire and the negative wire to the chassis. These lights would then be controlled by upfitter switch 1 - as long as you respected the maximum current draw.
And switch 1 is wired with a control via the high beam in the headlights (to ensure switch 1 is only active when high beam is in) so in the Australian FX4 Max with the upfitters it allows driving light to just be wired in. This probably is not a good cercuit for other items such as work lights etc (due to the high beam control). Having said that, I am not sure if I would trust the factory yellow wire (3mm I think) to run the full 25 amps (I used it control a 40 amp relay to control a bigger feed from the battery in a more traditional driving light set up).
Under the hood, the relay box clips off for easier access and clips back on. No negative connection there though still need to earth to battery/chassis etc. perhaps Ford could do an earthing point near the box to make the entire connection easier.
 

TuggerNutz

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And switch 1 is wired with a control via the high beam in the headlights (to ensure switch 1 is only active when high beam is in) so in the Australian FX4 Max with the upfitters it allows driving light to just be wired in. This probably is not a good cercuit for other items such as work lights etc (due to the high beam control). Having said that, I am not sure if I would trust the factory yellow wire (3mm I think) to run the full 25 amps (I used it control a 40 amp relay to control a bigger feed from the battery in a more traditional driving light set up).
Under the hood, the relay box clips off for easier access and clips back on. No negative connection there though still need to earth to battery/chassis etc. perhaps Ford could do an earthing point near the box to make the entire connection easier.
I didn't know #1 was controlled by the high beam activation. I might have to test it out with a multimeter.
 

Custom Built

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I didn't know #1 was controlled by the high beam activation. I might have to test it out with a multimeter.
I think that feature is for the Australian FX4 Max only. I didn’t see any reference to the high beam in @overangers manual.
 

LagoCJ

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Does the Ranger with the upfitter switches have wiring pre-runs like the Broncos do? I know they have the wiring available in the engine compartment, but are there any body/interior pre-runs as well?
 

amick1995

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Does the Ranger with the upfitter switches have wiring pre-runs like the Broncos do? I know they have the wiring available in the engine compartment, but are there any body/interior pre-runs as well?
No, all 6 wires are run out of a fuse box in front of the battery. Shouldn’t be too hard to run wiring along the frame to the rear of the vehicle.
My plan for when I get my bed rack is to run a trigger 6 shooter and mount it in the bed, that way all of the wiring for the rear doesn’t have to be run from the engine bay back. The switches are wireless so it’s just one wire from the battery to the bed, and then whatever accessories I choose to the fuse box.
 

KWill

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Is it possible to have one of the upfitter switches on my truck operate as an “always hot” circuit?

In other Ford trucks with upfitter switches (like 150s and 250s) there is a slider in the fuse box for one of the circuits that can be positioned for “key only” or “power constantly on” by pulling out the fuse in the slider and moving it and replacing the fuse.

My truck has the slider, but it is not fused and the manuals says the position (4A, 4B) is “not used.”

Is there a way to get that function?

Are the switches controlled by a FORscan module? I don’t see anything in the FORscan spreadsheet that obviously refers to these switches.

And finally, if there is no built-in way to switch one circuit to always hot, can I rewire one switch circuit to use the one with the slider (4A, 4B)?
 

TdotReckless

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Here are some picture of the Australian version of the Upfitter switches. If it turns out they are the same as the American, I can go through it’s operation with any who need.

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Hey, do you know if theres any videos as well on how to wire properly? Thanks for all the information. Plan on wiring few lights on my tremor but i am a complete amateur when it comes to wiring.
 

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Hey, do you know if theres any videos as well on how to wire properly? Thanks for all the information. Plan on wiring few lights on my tremor but i am a complete amateur when it comes to wiring.
I haven't found one yet. Has anyone wiredinto the upfitter box yet? What was your experience?
 

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I haven't found one yet. Has anyone wiredinto the upfitter box yet? What was your experience?
My experience was that it was easy. I used solder seal connectors. I also added connectors between the switches and the inputs to the relay box. This allows me to change what output each switch controls.
DD792B68-6BE3-4262-88BD-9A800162D3D9.jpeg
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TdotReckless

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My experience was that it was easy. I used solder seal connectors. I also added connectors between the switches and the inputs to the relay box. This allows me to change what output each switch controls.
DD792B68-6BE3-4262-88BD-9A800162D3D9.jpeg
DC184319-8848-4FE9-95C4-F3039B4E723F.jpeg
A6F3FFE3-500F-4A46-9DFB-10F0169C97F5.jpeg
66B7CF6E-6859-4BD1-BF88-EA31D9F51F36.png
Thank you so much for this, what are the connector plugs you used? i was looking into getting duech connectors as the lights i have are plug and play.
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