Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help)

[airline tech]

The Morimotos/OLMs work the same way. The Forscan changes I made were .y own choice and were done long before I installed my OLM lights. They were not necessary for the install. The only change needed would have been turning off the DRLs in the IPC menus.

So, the question is - since some are having issues, your changes were already programmed into the BCM @ install, for those that did not make any changes and just simply (Installed & DE-Selected) the IPC Menu for (Daytime Lights - DRL's)
What is the (They Work Flawlessly) vs (I have Issues) numbers and what specific fussed source is being used for the (Tapped Power)
I (THINK) yours are working without issues as you had already made the changes via Forscan.

Since we know that the Tapped Power source is the issue here, we just need to find the smoking gun (for all) owners of (This is what you need to do, and this (POINT) is the root of the issues some are having.

I need to dig back into the complaints and issues to isolate down the problem location for the Morimoto (Issues)
as since I have learned how the (Start-Up) sequence works (powers) and the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6 and then factor in what the BCM is trying to do it makes it challenge.

So, @jdjeff - For now, I would reset your As-Builts back to factory settings, and then have you confirm (What Fuse) are you using for the Taped Power source.
Referring to the (Start-Up) sequence not working when the switch is in (Auto) or only the LF headlamp is the only one giving you the (Start-Up) sequence.

With me learning that the (Morimoto's) do not have a Pin #6 on the Component Side then that requires the (Tapped Power) source for the (DRL Operation & Start-Up Sequence)
Until I can find the specific (As-Bult) data file that will provide power to (Pin#6) just like the Tapped Power source, we can get the DRL side of that power to function with using the Forscan changes and setting them up as (Lariat LED's) but that power on Pin #6 is only provided when the DRL's are commanded (ON) - So In (Auto) and out of (Park) and (Daylight) that is the only time pin #6 will have power. (So even wiretapping Pin #6 with the (Lariat LED) settings, the (Start-Up) sequence would not work @ power up.

So, since the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6, then the added power tap, provides the power source (instead) of the BCM.
The issue I think for the (Start-Up) sequence not working properly is that I had you change the As-Builts and did not know at that time that the Morimoto's did not have a way to tap the BCM power for Pin #6.
I also realized that Pin #6 even if you (Wire Tap) the harness side of pin #6, and made the Forscan Changes to match (Lariat LED) settings, you can possibly make them work correctly except for the (Start-Up) sequence, as it would only work when the BCM commands power to PIN #6 (DRL) Mode

For your other issue - Delay from Headlight to DRL, such as this example:
I park in the garage, when I start the truck my Factory LEDs, trigger on (Headlights) as I am in a darkened garage.
I back out and hit the sunlight (The Lighting Sensor) on the dash, registers the lighting change and then communicates via the data bus, to trigger the Headlights (Off) and DRL's (ON) there is a slight delay in this process, and it falls into (the amount of time) before it will switch, think driving under a bridge or underpass where the sensor momentarily gets shaded, it keeps the DRL's activated unless that shaded source is a longer period (such as driving in a long tunnel) then the Headlights would trigger (On) and the DRL's (OFF)

Sponsored

 

[Big Blue]

So, the question is - since some are having issues, your changes were already programmed into the BCM @ install, for those that did not make any changes and just simply (Installed & DE-Selected) the IPC Menu for (Daytime Lights - DRL's)
What is the (They Work Flawlessly) vs (I have Issues) numbers and what specific fussed source is being used for the (Tapped Power)
I (THINK) yours are working without issues as you had already made the changes via Forscan.

Since we know that the Tapped Power source is the issue here, we just need to find the smoking gun (for all) owners of (This is what you need to do, and this (POINT) is the root of the issues some are having.

I need to dig back into the complaints and issues to isolate down the problem location for the Morimoto (Issues)
as since I have learned how the (Start-Up) sequence works (powers) and the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6 and then factor in what the BCM is trying to do it makes it challenge.

So, @jdjeff - For now, I would reset your As-Builts back to factory settings, and then have you confirm (What Fuse) are you using for the Taped Power source.
Referring to the (Start-Up) sequence not working when the switch is in (Auto) or only the LF headlamp is the only one giving you the (Start-Up) sequence.

With me learning that the (Morimoto's) do not have a Pin #6 on the Component Side then that requires the (Tapped Power) source for the (DRL Operation & Start-Up Sequence)
Until I can find the specific (As-Bult) data file that will provide power to (Pin#6) just like the Tapped Power source, we can get the DRL side of that power to function with using the Forscan changes and setting them up as (Lariat LED's) but that power on Pin #6 is only provided when the DRL's are commanded (ON) - So In (Auto) and out of (Park) and (Daylight) that is the only time pin #6 will have power. (So even wiretapping Pin #6 with the (Lariat LED) settings, the (Start-Up) sequence would not work @ power up.

So, since the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6, then the added power tap, provides the power source (instead) of the BCM.
The issue I think for the (Start-Up) sequence not working properly is that I had you change the As-Builts and did not know at that time that the Morimoto's did not have a way to tap the BCM power for Pin #6.
I also realized that Pin #6 even if you (Wire Tap) the harness side of pin #6, and made the Forscan Changes to match (Lariat LED) settings, you can possibly make them work correctly except for the (Start-Up) sequence, as it would only work when the BCM commands power to PIN #6 (DRL) Mode

For your other issue - Delay from Headlight to DRL, such as this example:
I park in the garage, when I start the truck my Factory LEDs, trigger on (Headlights) as I am in a darkened garage.
I back out and hit the sunlight (The Lighting Sensor) on the dash, registers the lighting change and then communicates via the data bus, to trigger the Headlights (Off) and DRL's (ON) there is a slight delay in this process, and it falls into (the amount of time) before it will switch, think driving under a bridge or underpass where the sensor momentarily gets shaded, it keeps the DRL's activated unless that shaded source is a longer period (such as driving in a long tunnel) then the Headlights would trigger (On) and the DRL's (OFF)

I will when I have time and the weather cooperates. Here in the Midwest temperatures can still be on the cold side. This morning it was 11 degrees, we have had some days around 50. I Will revert my setting to original and test the lights. At this point I believe they will work find just that I will loose the.

I found it interesting that your chart of power test at the connect seems to indicate that the LEDs turn off the power to the low beams when the high beams are activated and vice versa for the low beams. The Halos simply add the high beams to the low beams, powering both.

At this point I believe they will work fine. The only thing will be that when I turn off the DRLs in the IPC menus, I will lose the park/tail lights and fogs when I take it out of park.

I found your chart testing of the pins for both Halos and LEDs interesting. That when the LEDs turn on the high beams they turn off the low beams, where the Halos keep both on.

I think it will be hard to make the aftermarket lights function like the OEMs, without tapped power. Part of this is the use of (multiple) Bi-LED Projectors, which the OEMs don't. The use of startup sequences adds another complication into this.

Personal comment: as far as having the DRL bars on any time the truck is running no matter the switch position, like Canada. I do not have a problem, and feel that is the way it should be from the factory. I also feel DRLs should include taillights lights. There are far to many people driving in low light with just DRLs or with no lights at all, because of digital dashes, that you cannot see when coming up behind them. People need to realize lights are not just to see by, but also to be seen.

End of rant.

 

[airline tech]

I will when I have time and the weather cooperates. Here in the Midwest temperatures can still be on the cold side. This morning it was 11 degrees, we have had some days around 50. I Will revert my setting to original and test the lights. At this point I believe they will work find just that I will loose the.

I found it interesting that your chart of power test at the connect seems to indicate that the LEDs turn off the power to the low beams when the high beams are activated and vice versa for the low beams. The Halos simply add the high beams to the low beams, powering both.

At this point I believe they will work fine. The only thing will be that when I turn off the DRLs in the IPC menus, I will lose the park/tail lights and fogs when I take it out of park.

I found your chart testing of the pins for both Halos and LEDs interesting. That when the LEDs turn on the high beams they turn off the low beams, where the Halos keep both on.

I think it will be hard to make the aftermarket lights function like the OEMs, without tapped power. Part of this is the use of (multiple) Bi-LED Projectors, which the OEMs don't. The use of startup sequences adds another complication into this.

Personal comment: as far as having the DRL bars on any time the truck is running no matter the switch position, like Canada. I do not have a problem, and feel that is the way it should be from the factory. I also feel DRLs should include taillights lights. There are far to many people driving in low light with just DRLs or with no lights at all, because of digital dashes, that you cannot see when coming up behind them. People need to realize lights are not just to see by, but also to be seen.

End of rant.

Both Low & High Beams are Lit (When High Beams) are on for the Halos - so a total of 4 lights
Both Lows and Both Highs.
The LEDs use the shutter, so when power is suppled the Shutter Moves to the needed position either for Low or High Beam.

 

[jdjeff]

So, the question is - since some are having issues, your changes were already programmed into the BCM @ install, for those that did not make any changes and just simply (Installed & DE-Selected) the IPC Menu for (Daytime Lights - DRL's)
What is the (They Work Flawlessly) vs (I have Issues) numbers and what specific fussed source is being used for the (Tapped Power)
I (THINK) yours are working without issues as you had already made the changes via Forscan.

Since we know that the Tapped Power source is the issue here, we just need to find the smoking gun (for all) owners of (This is what you need to do, and this (POINT) is the root of the issues some are having.

I need to dig back into the complaints and issues to isolate down the problem location for the Morimoto (Issues)
as since I have learned how the (Start-Up) sequence works (powers) and the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6 and then factor in what the BCM is trying to do it makes it challenge.

So, @jdjeff - For now, I would reset your As-Builts back to factory settings, and then have you confirm (What Fuse) are you using for the Taped Power source.
Referring to the (Start-Up) sequence not working when the switch is in (Auto) or only the LF headlamp is the only one giving you the (Start-Up) sequence.

With me learning that the (Morimoto's) do not have a Pin #6 on the Component Side then that requires the (Tapped Power) source for the (DRL Operation & Start-Up Sequence)
Until I can find the specific (As-Bult) data file that will provide power to (Pin#6) just like the Tapped Power source, we can get the DRL side of that power to function with using the Forscan changes and setting them up as (Lariat LED's) but that power on Pin #6 is only provided when the DRL's are commanded (ON) - So In (Auto) and out of (Park) and (Daylight) that is the only time pin #6 will have power. (So even wiretapping Pin #6 with the (Lariat LED) settings, the (Start-Up) sequence would not work @ power up.

So, since the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6, then the added power tap, provides the power source (instead) of the BCM.
The issue I think for the (Start-Up) sequence not working properly is that I had you change the As-Builts and did not know at that time that the Morimoto's did not have a way to tap the BCM power for Pin #6.
I also realized that Pin #6 even if you (Wire Tap) the harness side of pin #6, and made the Forscan Changes to match (Lariat LED) settings, you can possibly make them work correctly except for the (Start-Up) sequence, as it would only work when the BCM commands power to PIN #6 (DRL) Mode

For your other issue - Delay from Headlight to DRL, such as this example:
I park in the garage, when I start the truck my Factory LEDs, trigger on (Headlights) as I am in a darkened garage.
I back out and hit the sunlight (The Lighting Sensor) on the dash, registers the lighting change and then communicates via the data bus, to trigger the Headlights (Off) and DRL's (ON) there is a slight delay in this process, and it falls into (the amount of time) before it will switch, think driving under a bridge or underpass where the sensor momentarily gets shaded, it keeps the DRL's activated unless that shaded source is a longer period (such as driving in a long tunnel) then the Headlights would trigger (On) and the DRL's (OFF)

Ok thanks brutha. I'm still tuned into this topic. Like some others have been saying, the weather has been keeping out of my garage. I was going to just try to disable the startup sequence since I can basically live without it. The issue seems to be multi-level depending on switch positions and the driver's preferences. To test them completely is a very difficult process alone in a freezing garage. So if I just want to delete the startup sequence all together, what do you think I need to do as that startup thing is becoming less and less important as the honeymoon comes to an end.? Again...I appreciate your vigilance for all of our sake.

 

[Big Blue]

Both Low & High Beams are Lit (When High Beams) are on for the Halos - so a total of 4 lights
Both Lows and Both Highs.
The LEDs use the shutter, so when power is suppled the Shutter Moves to the needed position either for Low or High Beam.

OK, what input is telling the LED to turn on when Headlights are required and which input is telling the shutter to move. I would have thought that, like the Halos the low beam power would turn on the LED on when Headlights are required and just add the high beam power, to signal the the shutters to open, keeping the LED on. Why change the logic.

 

[Big Blue]

Ok thanks brutha. I'm still tuned into this topic. Like some others have been saying, the weather has been keeping out of my garage. I was going to just try to disable the startup sequence since I can basically live without it. The issue seems to be multi-level depending on switch positions and the driver's preferences. To test them completely is a very difficult process alone in a freezing garage. So if I just want to delete the startup sequence all together, what do you think I need to do as that startup thing is becoming less and less important as the honeymoon comes to an end.? Again...I appreciate your vigilance for all of our sake.

I hear you on the freezing garage! As far as deleting just the startup sequence, good luck with that. Because it basically takes control of the individual Projectors in each light and cycles them through high and low beam in sequence. It then gives control back to the BCM for normal operation. As I found out by disconnecting the tapped power you lose the startup sequence but you also lose the DRL bars at all times.

Your only issue is missing the startup sequence on one side intermittently, but everything else is working properly, If I remember correctly, I would say leave it be. At least for now. Any solution probably involves roving the headlight. In most cases I don't even notice the startup sequence unless I remote start it facing the truck or am parked facing a window.

 

[jdjeff]

I hear you on the freezing garage! As far as deleting just the startup sequence, good luck with that. Because it basically takes control of the individual Projectors in each light and cycles them through high and low beam in sequence. It then gives control back to the BCM for normal operation. As I found out by disconnecting the tapped power you lose the startup sequence but you also lose the DRL bars at all times.

Your only issue is missing the startup sequence on one side intermittently, but everything else is working properly, If I remember correctly, I would say leave it be. At least for now. Any solution probably involves roving the headlight. In most cases I don't even notice the startup sequence unless I remote start it facing the truck or am parked facing a window.

In my 2021 XLT, there is a check box in the settings menu on the dash for DRL. Right now I have that box unchecked and the fuse tap wire connected. I can't remember if I checked the DRLs with the box checked and the fuse tap disconnected. That's why I thought I could simply get rid of startup sequence. But, if I understand this right, the necessary pin for DRL is missing forcing the use of the fuse tap. Am I getting this right?

I have tried to live with this but each time I see it working improperly, it continues to frustrate. I would rather take the problem away rather than just live with it. I'm not real confident that there is no voltage conflict that could eventually burn something out since I'm also able to see a slight delay in the DRLs when they both come on in 'Auto/Daylight'.

The problem is that there so many scenarios to try to reproduce the issue:
Headlights = Auto (makes me wonder if all this would work when not in auto)
Daylight vs. Nightime (seems to work in daylight but not night)
Fuse tap connected
Dash setting DRL unchecked
Me sitting behind the wheel with no t-shooting help and in the freezing garage.

I read your other posts...do you actually have a Canadian Ranger?

AND..."Any solution probably involves roving the headlight." Does 'roving' = removing?

 

[jdjeff]

So, the question is - since some are having issues, your changes were already programmed into the BCM @ install, for those that did not make any changes and just simply (Installed & DE-Selected) the IPC Menu for (Daytime Lights - DRL's)
What is the (They Work Flawlessly) vs (I have Issues) numbers and what specific fussed source is being used for the (Tapped Power)
I (THINK) yours are working without issues as you had already made the changes via Forscan.

Since we know that the Tapped Power source is the issue here, we just need to find the smoking gun (for all) owners of (This is what you need to do, and this (POINT) is the root of the issues some are having.

I need to dig back into the complaints and issues to isolate down the problem location for the Morimoto (Issues)
as since I have learned how the (Start-Up) sequence works (powers) and the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6 and then factor in what the BCM is trying to do it makes it challenge.

So, @jdjeff - For now, I would reset your As-Builts back to factory settings, and then have you confirm (What Fuse) are you using for the Taped Power source.
Referring to the (Start-Up) sequence not working when the switch is in (Auto) or only the LF headlamp is the only one giving you the (Start-Up) sequence.

With me learning that the (Morimoto's) do not have a Pin #6 on the Component Side then that requires the (Tapped Power) source for the (DRL Operation & Start-Up Sequence)
Until I can find the specific (As-Bult) data file that will provide power to (Pin#6) just like the Tapped Power source, we can get the DRL side of that power to function with using the Forscan changes and setting them up as (Lariat LED's) but that power on Pin #6 is only provided when the DRL's are commanded (ON) - So In (Auto) and out of (Park) and (Daylight) that is the only time pin #6 will have power. (So even wiretapping Pin #6 with the (Lariat LED) settings, the (Start-Up) sequence would not work @ power up.

So, since the Morimoto's do not have a Pin #6, then the added power tap, provides the power source (instead) of the BCM.
The issue I think for the (Start-Up) sequence not working properly is that I had you change the As-Builts and did not know at that time that the Morimoto's did not have a way to tap the BCM power for Pin #6.
I also realized that Pin #6 even if you (Wire Tap) the harness side of pin #6, and made the Forscan Changes to match (Lariat LED) settings, you can possibly make them work correctly except for the (Start-Up) sequence, as it would only work when the BCM commands power to PIN #6 (DRL) Mode

For your other issue - Delay from Headlight to DRL, such as this example:
I park in the garage, when I start the truck my Factory LEDs, trigger on (Headlights) as I am in a darkened garage.
I back out and hit the sunlight (The Lighting Sensor) on the dash, registers the lighting change and then communicates via the data bus, to trigger the Headlights (Off) and DRL's (ON) there is a slight delay in this process, and it falls into (the amount of time) before it will switch, think driving under a bridge or underpass where the sensor momentarily gets shaded, it keeps the DRL's activated unless that shaded source is a longer period (such as driving in a long tunnel) then the Headlights would trigger (On) and the DRL's (OFF)

So go back to As Builts in Forscan. I believe this is how I got into the As Builts in the first place. I was trying to see if the startup would work correctly when I changed it to 'Lariat'. So that setting made no difference in trying to get the startup to work right. Just my observation.

 

[Big Blue]

In my 2021 XLT, there is a check box in the settings menu on the dash for DRL. Right now I have that box unchecked and the fuse tap wire connected. I can't remember if I checked the DRLs with the box checked and the fuse tap disconnected. That's why I thought I could simply get rid of startup sequence. But, if I understand this right, the necessary pin for DRL is missing forcing the use of the fuse tap. Am I getting this right?

I have tried to live with this but each time I see it working improperly, it continues to frustrate. I would rather take the problem away rather than just live with it. I'm not real confident that there is no voltage conflict that could eventually burn something out since I'm also able to see a slight delay in the DRLs when they both come on in 'Auto/Daylight'.

The problem is that there so many scenarios to try to reproduce the issue:
Headlights = Auto (makes me wonder if all this would work when not in auto)
Daylight vs. Nightime (seems to work in daylight but not night)
Fuse tap connected
Dash setting DRL unchecked
Me sitting behind the wheel with no t-shooting help and in the freezing garage.

I read your other posts...do you actually have a Canadian Ranger?

AND..."Any solution probably involves roving the headlight." Does 'roving' = removing?

Ok, sorry this will be a rather long winded answer to your questions.

Yes there is a checkbox in the IPC menus that needs to be unchecked. This is to prevent the truck from trying to power the low beams as the DRLs. This is the normal mode for Non-LED headlights.

Yes the pin for DRLs is missing on the aftermarket headlights. It is also missing in your OEM Halogen headlights. The need for the tapped power is two-fold. In order to make the headlights compatible with both Halogen and LED equipped trucks, they had to take control of the DRL light bars. They are controlled so differently between the two trim levels. It also let them add the startup sequences. Another reason is to make the headlights "Plug and Play" without the need to do any Forscan changes. Turning off (unchecking) the DRL the setting in the IPC menu is somethiing anyone is capable of doing, as well as adding the tapped power harness.

As far as your issue with the startup sequences. I played with mine a little this morning and got some interesting results. Sometimes I would get the startup sequence with the truck in dark mode and sometime I would not. It appeared to be more related to how long I waited between starts than anything else. If I waited longer between starts I would get the sequence. If I only waited for the truck to time out the dash lights I would not and the headlights would just come on. I will need to investigate this further. also If I just turned the truck on and waited before actually starting the truck I would get the sequence and the headlight would then come on.

As far as the delay between the Driver side and passenger side, this has been noted in the past.

As far as not in Auto. I believe you will still get the sequence when you start the truck, just the headlights will go back to off. This is because the DRLs are powered by the tapped power and are on anytime the truck is running. The startup sequence is also powered by this same power. If you disconnect the tapped power you will not get the DRL/parking lights at any time and the startup sequence will not happen. It does appear that the headlights and turn indicators will work normally.

lastly No my ranger is a US model XLT, and yes roving was meant to be removing, I was typing that on my phone and the M is right next to the backspace key, and I fat fingered it.

 

[jdjeff]

As far as your issue with the startup sequences. I played with mine a little this morning and got some interesting results. Sometimes I would get the startup sequence with the truck in dark mode and sometime I would not. It appeared to be more related to how long I waited between starts than anything else. If I waited longer between starts I would get the sequence. If I only waited for the truck to time out the dash lights I would not and the headlights would just come on. I will need to investigate this further. also If I just turned the truck on and waited before actually starting the truck I would get the sequence and the headlight would then come on.

That's what I was experimenting with too. Upon opening the car door, the nightime DRLs light up. (courtesy lights?). When I insert the key and turn to the first stop, the night DRLs go out. I thought I was on to something by counting 1-mississippi before going the rest of the way. There are times it works (very rare), there are times both lights come up solid (no startup), and the majority of times it comes up drivers side startup only. So with that in mind, I experimented with different times longer/shorter. I tried just sticking the key in and blast all the way through and start it right up. Each one of these methods were showing promise but it looks obvious that there are no tricks that I could come up with to trick this SOB into working all the time. The strange part of this is that when I get to my destination in the daylight and pull into a space with storefront glass in front of me, it works as advertised every single time. What a PITA.

I know it might seem petty to some to get all worked up over this....BUT...we busted our asses to get these lights in. I busted a wallet buying them. And if this was some actual plug and play stuff I would have returned them already.

The other interesting info I have is upon calling Headlight Revolution which I now know is a sub company of Morimoto. So when you call Morimoto, it actually goes to Headlight Revolution. That's besides the point. But I asked the tech support guy if my propsed method to just turn off startup and he said yes, it would only disable startup. He also told me this issue is "on their radar". As we hung up he told me he would have another tech familiar with the issue call me back and guess what? Never called back. That was right before I made my more recent posts.

I called them back today and a different tech is saying what you are saying: You can't disable startup and still have fully functional DRLs. You will lose daytime DRL but still have the light bars when in low beam at night. It's on their radar but they are basically doing nothing to test lights with this problem. The only thing they will do now is replace the defective light whichever that one is. Long story short we're screwed.

 

[Big Blue]

That's what I was experimenting with too. Upon opening the car door, the nightime DRLs light up. (courtesy lights?). When I insert the key and turn to the first stop, the night DRLs go out. I thought I was on to something by counting 1-mississippi before going the rest of the way. There are times it works (very rare), there are times both lights come up solid (no startup), and the majority of times it comes up drivers side startup only. So with that in mind, I experimented with different times longer/shorter. I tried just sticking the key in and blast all the way through and start it right up. Each one of these methods were showing promise but it looks obvious that there are no tricks that I could come up with to trick this SOB into working all the time. The strange part of this is that when I get to my destination in the daylight and pull into a space with storefront glass in front of me, it works as advertised every single time. What a PITA.

I know it might seem petty to some to get all worked up over this....BUT...we busted our asses to get these lights in. I busted a wallet buying them. And if this was some actual plug and play stuff I would have returned them already.

The other interesting info I have is upon calling Headlight Revolution which I now know is a sub company of Morimoto. So when you call Morimoto, it actually goes to Headlight Revolution. That's besides the point. But I asked the tech support guy if my propsed method to just turn off startup and he said yes, it would only disable startup. He also told me this issue is "on their radar". As we hung up he told me he would have another tech familiar with the issue call me back and guess what? Never called back. That was right before I made my more recent posts.

I called them back today and a different tech is saying what you are saying: You can't disable startup and still have fully functional DRLs. You will lose daytime DRL but still have the light bars when in low beam at night. It's on their radar but they are basically doing nothing to test lights with this problem. The only thing they will do now is replace the defective light whichever that one is. Long story short we're screwed.

With what you just said and what I experienced this morning. I have come up with a theory as to the problem. It has to do with whether the headlights are actually on or what part of the startup cycle they come on. It seems if the headlights are actually ON, you will NOT get the startup sequence. If they are NOT on you WILL get the sequence. Depend on the timing of the truck actually sensing that it is dark out and turning on the lights may affect this. The slight delay between the LH and RH could account for the randomness of the RH missing the sequence.

Again this is just my theory, thinking outside the box.

As I've said before, personally whether the startup sequence happens or not is not a big deal for me. As I'm the main driver, the only time I would see it is if I'm parked facing a window. As an engineer I do have a curiosity about how they work.

 

[Big Blue]

So go back to As Builts in Forscan. I believe this is how I got into the As Builts in the first place. I was trying to see if the startup would work correctly when I changed it to 'Lariat'. So that setting made no difference in trying to get the startup to work right. Just my observation.

As far as any Forscan changes affecting how or when the startup sequence works, NOT HAPPENING! This sequence is controlled by programming within the headlight. It only uses some action or event by the BCM to trigger it.

Just my curiosity, but where in Forscan did you make the change to "Lariat"?

 

[jdjeff]

As far as any Forscan changes affecting how or when the startup sequence works, NOT HAPPENING! This sequence is controlled by programming within the headlight. It only uses some action or event by the BCM to trigger it.

Just my curiosity, but where in Forscan did you make the change to "Lariat"?

I don't remember off the top of my head. I remember another Morimoto XB thread in this forum pointed that out and said where to make the change. Let me look and see how I got that info but I know it was in this Ranger forum. The supposed reasoning behind this was if left in the Halo mode, you might damage the replacement LED. It was one of the last setting changes I made to no avail.

It just seems like the issue is isolated to auto while dark. I haven't tried using the lights manually to see what happens...in other words take it out of auto. There's just so many scenarios to check and I keep getting lost. Time to make a spreadsheet I suppose to try to eliminate all lighting scenarios and switch poitions. I've just been too lazy or too cold/hot to use a thorough approach. When it gets like this it starts feeling like Rubic's Cube.

Besides that, I'll look around to see if I can find the Forscan parameter that I changed.

EDIT: Ok...I'm pretty sure this is where I found this. It was airline tech I was discussing with airline tech. (Sorry airline tech...I didn't realize that was you!)
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/conversations/morimoto-xbs-on-2021-ranger-sport-halogen-oem.14085/

 

[Big Blue]

I don't remember off the top of my head. I remember another Morimoto XB thread in this forum pointed that out and said where to make the change. Let me look and see how I got that info but I know it was in this Ranger forum. The supposed reasoning behind this was if left in the Halo mode, you might damage the replacement LED. It was one of the last setting changes I made to no avail.

It just seems like the issue is isolated to auto while dark. I haven't tried using the lights manually to see what happens...in other words take it out of auto. There's just so many scenarios to check and I keep getting lost. Time to make a spreadsheet I suppose to try to eliminate all lighting scenarios and switch poitions. I've just been too lazy or too cold/hot to use a thorough approach. When it gets like this it starts feeling like Rubic's Cube.

Besides that, I'll look around to see if I can find the Forscan parameter that I changed.

EDIT: Ok...I'm pretty sure this is where I found this. It was airline tech I was discussing with airline tech. (Sorry airline tech...I didn't realize that was you!)
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/conversations/morimoto-xbs-on-2021-ranger-sport-halogen-oem.14085/

OK, you evidently cannot link the general forum to a Private message, I cannot see what you are linking. I do have a pretty good idea what it is though. @airline tech has a thing about the tapped power harness. He did a great job figuring out the Forscan changes needed to make the OEM LEDs work on his truck that was configured for HALOs.

@airline tech , I had a additional theory on why the aftermarket headlights use/NEED a tapped power harness. Since our trucks (North American) have to deal with two counties each with their own DRL rules (Laws) as well a two different headlight assemblies. Ford had the capability to code the BCM firmware with the appropriate switches to handle the multiple scenarios. The aftermarket companies in order to make their products "Plug and Play" (without the need to have Forscan to change settings) had to basically take control of the DRLs away from the BCM. limiting it to basic functions like turning headlights on and off, high and low beam switching, parking lights and turn signals. Since Canada requires DRLs to be on anytime the vehicle is running, regardless of switch position. This required a power tap that came on with the ignition on. Only place to get this was a fuse tap. Since the US rangers have the ability to disable DRLs in the IPC menus, this was an easy way to get rid of the BCM DRL control, that did not require Forscan to accomplish.

As far as the issue that @jdjeff is having, I am beginning to believe that it is coming down to a timing issue as to when the BCM actually gets the signal from the ambient light sensor on the dash and actually turns on the headlights during startup. It seems if the lights are already turned on you don't get a startup sequence. And, if they are off, you do get a startup sequence. Since the sequence is triggered by the individual headlight getting the power from the fuse tap it could be an intermittent wiring issue to the passenger side light. It seems as if the headlights are already on it blocks the sequence from happening. But once the sequence has started it must complete. This is possible because the sequence has taken over complete control of the the individual headlight projectors. Again this probably only applies to the Morimoto lights that @jdjeff has and maybe the OLMs I have. Any other manufacturer will have their own control scheme, I think that the Morimotos and my OLMs are the only ones the sequence the actual high and low beams as part of the startup.

 

[jdjeff]

Hmm...not sure what you mean? I didn't send the link through a PM. The link works on my end even when I click on it in the quote. I haven't sent any PMs during this discussion. The only issue with the link as it jumps right to the middle of the thread. See if this works:

https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/conversations/messages/80766/

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