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2023 Brake Rotor Advice….. Thanks!

RK Racing

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So far i have seen “”R1”” mention a lot everywhere. I pulled up two of their kits one for $509 and the other one for $569 which seems more than fair. Please chime in and tell me what you suggest, Thank You very very much.!

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Frenchy

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I looked at them and questioned it a bit. I suspect it's made in China and I don't like that idea.

With that said I would go one of two routes. Option 1 is stick with OEM Pads and Rotors. If not mistaken they are made in the US.

Option 2 is to go with EBC and stick with the Standard Rotors and the Ultimax 2 Pads. These are made in the UK and will increase the stopping power a bit. I know because I have a set on my 2012 Frontier.

What about warping brakes? Drive like a reasonable human being and learn to engine brake as needed. This will help you save on brakes.
 
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RK Racing

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I looked at them and questioned it a bit. I suspect it's made in China and I don't like that idea.

With that said I would go one of two routes. Option 1 is stick with OEM Pads and Rotors. If not mistaken they are made in the US.

Option 2 is to go with EBC and stick with the Standard Rotors and the Ultimax 2 Pads. These are made in the UK and will increase the stopping power a bit. I know because I have a set on my 2012 Frontier.

What about warping brakes? Drive like a reasonable human being and learn to engine brake as needed. This will help you save on brakes.
Currently on my 2023 I have a BDS 6 inch lift and 34 inch tires for now but going to 35 very soon. I have not pulled off the wheels and looked at them and they do feel a little worn out. They just feel like there could be a lot of improvement added to them. No pulsating so I believe no warpage issues are there..

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Frenchy

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Currently on my 2023 I have a BDS 6 inch lift and 34 inch tires for now but going to 35 very soon. I have not pulled off the wheels and looked at them and they do feel a little worn out. They just feel like there could be a lot of improvement added to them. No pulsating so I believe no warpage issues are there..

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It's always worth inspecting every oil change. Also check the brake fluid condition. Over time and Miles that does wear out and should be changed fairly regularly.
 


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RK Racing

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It's always worth inspecting every oil change. Also check the brake fluid condition. Over time and Miles that does wear out and should be changed fairly regularly.
It’s funny I never checked the brakes along with my oil changes because they were working normal at the time. Every 5000 miles I change my oil and rotate my tires. In the next few days, I will check the rotors and pads to see if there’s something obvious going on.
 

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It’s funny I never checked the brakes along with my oil changes because they were working normal at the time. Every 5000 miles I change my oil and rotate my tires. In the next few days, I will check the rotors and pads to see if there’s something obvious going on.
Always check them when doing your oil change. Especially when doing a tire rotate. That's when you have the most room to really take a look at it.
 

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A word on drilled rotors...

I don't know if they've gotten better. Drilled rotors used to be manufactured in a way that the drilling didn't compromise the rotors. Then everyone in China started pumping drilled rotors into the US market using cheaper manufacturing techniques.

The problem was (and maybe still is) that the drilled rotors crack where the holes are drilled through.

It's my understanding that modern pads negate the benefit that drilled rotors used to offer.

Hell, when i wanted to upgrade the brakes on my Mustang, I put Brembo calipers on, really good performance brake pads (I can't remember the brand but I think it was EBC) and sourced a set of larger Mustang GT500 Cobra non-drilled rotors. 🤌 It came out perfect!

ETA:
Having been out on trails in my Ranger with a bunch of other Rangers and having see the crazy stuff that happens, I wouldn't want cross drilled and slotted rotors on a truck with 4-wheel drive. Rocks and junk will occasionally get stuck in the brakes and it makes a terrible noise. Hahahaha. I can't image what a rock clipping the slotts or holes on a rotor would do to the rotor.
 
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Frenchy

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A word on drilled rotors...

I don't know if they've gotten better. Drilled rotors used to be manufactured in a way that the drilling didn't compromise the rotors. Then everyone in China started pumping drilled rotors into the US market using cheaper manufacturing techniques.

The problem was (and maybe still is) that the drilled rotors crack where the holes are drilled through.

It's my understanding that modern pads negate the benefit that drilled rotors used to offer.

Hell, when i wanted to upgrade the brakes on my Mustang, I put Brembo calipers on, really good performance brake pads (I can't remember the brand but I think it was EBC) and sourced a set of larger Mustang GT500 Cobra non-drilled rotors. 🤌 It came out perfect!
Drilled rotors are supposed to help with cooling the rotors. Slots are supposed to help with degassing the pads. Bigger diameter rotors give you more mechanical leverage allowing you to stop easier with less effort.
 

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Drilled rotors are supposed to help with cooling the rotors. Slots are supposed to help with degassing the pads. Bigger diameter rotors give you more mechanical leverage allowing you to stop easier with less effort.
No doubt. I understand that was why they came about. It's my understanding (and I could very well be wrong about this) that modern pads technology negates the need for drilled and slotted rotors in all but the highest of performance applications. And on top of that, the stuff hocked to the average consumer is subject to failing due to manufacturing methods allowing for cracking.

They may make sense on a Pagani Huayra but no so much on a Ford Ranger.

ETA -
Heck, I just started Google'ing brake setups for major racing (Indy, Nascar, LMP, etc.) and they don't even run drilled rotors. Some have a little bit of slotting on them.
 

Frenchy

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No doubt. I understand that was why they came about. It's my understanding (and I could very well be wrong about this) that modern pads technology negates the need for drilled and slotted rotors in all but the highest of performance applications. And on top of that, the stuff hocked to the average consumer is subject to failing due to manufacturing methods allowing for cracking.

They may make sense on a Pagani Huayra but no so much on a Ford Ranger.
In a general sense you are correct. That said I see many individuals out there that like to ride the brakes a bit too much on the down hill slopes and act as if their commuter car is a 911 GT3 on the Nurburgring
 

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In a general sense you are correct. That said I see many individuals out there that like to ride the brakes a bit too much on the down hill slopes and act as if their commuter car is a 911 GT3 on the Nurburgring
HAHAHA! It's probably a good thing I work from home and barely drive my truck anymore. I always wait to the last second to mash the brakes. 😆
 

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I looked at them and questioned it a bit. I suspect it's made in China and I don't like that idea.

With that said I would go one of two routes. Option 1 is stick with OEM Pads and Rotors. If not mistaken they are made in the US.

Option 2 is to go with EBC and stick with the Standard Rotors and the Ultimax 2 Pads. These are made in the UK and will increase the stopping power a bit. I know because I have a set on my 2012 Frontier.

What about warping brakes? Drive like a reasonable human being and learn to engine brake as needed. This will help you save on brakes.
Maybe put it in Sport Mode and downshift when going down long or steep hills. Yes can do in D but it takes more button pushes to downshift
 

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Tow mode does a great job of engine braking.

And fully agree with @Glocker on the drilled/slotted rotors on a vehicle that goes off road.

Any potential benefits are outweighed by many potential problems.
 

got3fords

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I traded in my '21 at 78k miles with original brakes. Probably could have exceeded 100k.
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