2021 Lariat 60,000 miles - stupid to upgrade suspension?

[Mighty Little Blue]

With all the extra weight you might want to think about changing out the rear springs also. Shocks will help, but multi leaf springs will handle the weight better.

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[Superspirit]

Bilstein 5100,s ft and rear set to 5th (top) clip slot, rear ROW multi leaf springs, roush bronco wheels +30 offset (sit 1 in wider than stock both sides) truck is rock solid on and off road. So I'll highly recommend bilstein shocks and a multi leaf spring in the rear. Multi leaf and shocks made the biggest difference.

 

[2thdr]

I just swapped 5100s on the back of my 21.

Huge improvement, worth every penny.

I don't think I would have any problem doing the rear shocks myself, but front looks kind of difficult (I think you can have one of the control arms pop out of it's joint or something if you're not careful?), and also I don't have a spring compressor to move the oem spring onto the new strut.

 

[2thdr]

And then he sees this...this kit is supposed to be for increased load and is sold on the Ford.com site (out of stock).
https://www.stage3motorsports.com/m...ford-performance-overland-suspension-kit.html

 

[specialKody]

Yes, it does - I thought that was a bit odd when I first installed mine.

Maybe I should have just bought those.

I was thinking of going that way myself but found a set of Fox 2.0s unused on marketplace for $800. Couldn't pass that up. Plus aluminum body is nice to avoid any corrosion in a wet environment like the PNW.

 

[specialKody]

I don't think I would have any problem doing the rear shocks myself, but front looks kind of difficult (I think you can have one of the control arms pop out of it's joint or something if you're not careful?), and also I don't have a spring compressor to move the oem spring onto the new strut.

The rears are simpler, this is correct. I'd recommend working with an off-road shop or trusted mechanic if you feel unsure on handling the coils. It should be a nominal feel to swap them over. You can do the rest of the work yourself to save money.

To avoid popping out the joint you'll need to remove the axle nut (iirc). Its not that difficult to do. You will need a 250-ft/lb capable torque wrench.

 

[Mighty Little Blue]

The rears are simpler, this is correct. I'd recommend working with an off-road shop or trusted mechanic if you feel unsure on handling the coils. It should be a nominal feel to swap them over. You can do the rest of the work yourself to save money.

To avoid popping out the joint you'll need to remove the axle nut (iirc). Its not that difficult to do. You will need a 250-ft/lb capable torque wrench.

If you go the top route UCA, best to remove axle nut to avoid pulling out the axle. Easier way is to mark alignment bolts on LCA then remove and drop LCA to change out front coilovers. Do a search on you tube there is a good video from a member on here Josh Mills I believe.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I don't think I would have any problem doing the rear shocks myself, but front looks kind of difficult (I think you can have one of the control arms pop out of it's joint or something if you're not careful?), and also I don't have a spring compressor to move the oem spring onto the new strut.

The rears are very straightforward. There are two options for the front.

1. Drop the Lower Control Arm
2. Unfasten the knuckle from the Upper Control Arm

Each requires a certain amount of skill, confidence, research, and proper tools. Expect a shop to charge an hour to an hour and a half per side for the fronts - so, don’t be surprised if it’s $500 or more. I’ve done the UCA method twice - there are pitfalls to avoid (expensive ones) that are not always shown on YouTube and some hacks to make it easier. I have no experience with the LCA method.

Many of the nuts are one time use as per the Ford tech manuals, which states to toss them and replace with new. You will also need a wheel alignment when it’s done - expect to drop another $100-125. If you do the rear leaf pack, make sure you get a four wheel alignment, not just front end.

 

[Frenchy]

And then he sees this...this kit is supposed to be for increased load and is sold on the Ford.com site (out of stock).
https://www.stage3motorsports.com/m...ford-performance-overland-suspension-kit.html

That is the Old Man EMU Suspension kit. Ford simply took it and put their name on it for fun a few years after it came out.

I have attached the application chart from ARB for the Ranger. As you can see there are a few things to keep in mind with them as there are options. First and foremost you have the Nitrocharger Sport shocks and struts. They are twin tubes and will get the job done. These will pair well with the 3000 series Coil Springs. Just make sure you select the one that suits the load up front. If no aftermarket bumper or winch, get the 3140. If running an aftermarket bumper and winch, get the 3141.

For the rear it gets a bit more fun. The leaf springs are designed to lift 1.6 inches with specified loads. The EL120R will handle 0 LBS at lift height. The EL121R will handle 600 LBS at lift height. The EL128R will handle 1200 LBS at lift height. I would recommend finding out how much weight you have in the back to determine how much you have added. If anything I'm going to suspect the EL121R will sit you best. Also you have most likely noticed the two different part numbers for the rear Nitrocharger Sport shocks. The 60156 is going to handle lighter loads. The 60157 will be suited better for heavy loads.

Last but not least you have the BP-51 Suspension. They utilize the same leaf springs, but have their own coil springs. These are a Bypass type shock and strut meant to give excellent comfort and control on the street and trail. That said it comes with a price tag.

Here are some videos about the BP-51 Suspension.





Hopefully this helps you out a bit on deciding.

 

[Todd Chapin]

I had Eibach 2.0 front and rear that I upgraded on my 2019 fx4. Put about 52k miles on the them and they were superb. The fx4 were bouncy , severly braked drived and went in the trash. I got top dollar last week when I traded it in and the upgrade dampners probably helped that. Any of the brands on this thread are way better than OEM. Is it worth it to upgrade at 62k mile? Depends, but you are going to wish you had done it a long time ago if you do. Thats how I felt at 20k miles when I upgraded mine.

 

[2thdr]

The rears are very straightforward. There are two options for the front.

1. Drop the Lower Control Arm
2. Unfasten the knuckle from the Upper Control Arm

Each requires a certain amount of skill, confidence, research, and proper tools. Expect a shop to charge an hour to an hour and a half per side for the fronts - so, don’t be surprised if it’s $500 or more. I’ve done the UCA method twice - there are pitfalls to avoid (expensive ones) that are not always shown on YouTube and some hacks to make it easier. I have no experience with the LCA method.

Many of the nuts are one time use as per the Ford tech manuals, which states to toss them and replace with new. You will also need a wheel alignment when it’s done - expect to drop another $100-125. If you do the rear leaf pack, make sure you get a four wheel alignment, not just front end.

Thanks for the service manual pages, really helpful! Have you watched the video from Stage3Motorsports? They don't remove nearly as much as the service manual says to (which is typical of service manuals), but I think the video makes it look easier than it is. I noticed they reused a couple of fasteners that Ford says to replace, some were replaced with the kit fasteners. If Les Schwab will let me provide the kit, they quoted about $412 labor for the front struts. Every place I went to today wanted anywhere from $640 to $880 for the Bilstein 5100's that cost $500 online with free shipping. I sure don't understand their pricing because I know they can get them cheaper than we can.

 

[Frenchy]

Understanding wanting someone else to do the work for reasons, sometimes it's best not to take it to certain shops. If you have all the tools, I would do it in the driveway/garage there. The main thing is having a socket and impact(a good 1/2 drive electric will do the job) to get the axle nut off that will help ensure you don't pop the axle off by accident.

 

[Dereku]

Not stupid at all. I did rear bilsteins at 10k and fronts at 70k. Just did an exhaust at 123k. As long as it runs and you still like it, keep making changes. Makes my truck feel new and fresh to me occasionally and takes away the want for something new.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Thanks for the service manual pages, really helpful! Have you watched the video from Stage3Motorsports? They don't remove nearly as much as the service manual says to (which is typical of service manuals), but I think the video makes it look easier than it is. I noticed they reused a couple of fasteners that Ford says to replace, some were replaced with the kit fasteners. If Les Schwab will let me provide the kit, they quoted about $412 labor for the front struts. Every place I went to today wanted anywhere from $640 to $880 for the Bilstein 5100's that cost $500 online with free shipping. I sure don't understand their pricing because I know they can get them cheaper than we can.

I’ve seen the Stage3 video and it is not that great - even appears to be edited where I’m certain he popped the CV when he was trying to force things back into place. I’m not even sure he unfastened the anti-sway bar link and only loosened the anti-sway bar bushing. These are the pitfalls that can be costly. That and doing it by raising one side at a time instead of raising both and using jack stands. Things get stressed and pop and then you’re sitting in your driveway waiting for AAA to take it to a shop.

On another video, I saw a guy use an impact tool to crank down a sketchy spring compression tool. Yikes. You don’t want to be forever known as “lefty” or “one-eyed Jack”.

$412 labour plus enviro fees, shop fees, and taxes will come out to about $500. Seems right. Seems fair. If that includes the wheel alignment, that’s way better than fair.

And you’re right. On top of it, those other guys are making decent margin on the parts.

 

[Jamie Jack]

I'm 67 and not a mechanic, and I installed the Eibach 2.0 myself with a 1" lift block in the rear. Front left took 3 hours. Front right took 1.5 hours, rear took 2 hours. Tie the front axle in with a tie rap while working on it. 4 wheel alignment after. No issues other than the instructions has the wrong socket size listed for the axle, but those details are on this forum.

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