What did you do to your Ranger today?

[Colo_Ranger]

Changed the oil. The Valvomax plug works great, even with the ARB skids. I’m going to order a longer hose for the changes in the future, but… it made quick work of the change.


I also installed my Wolf Haus adapter in the bed. I’ll change Forscan tomorrow to allow it to run my fridge overnight.

also did the first setup of our new tent. We needed something large enough for a crib for the kiddo.

the first setup took 15-20 minutes but I’ll be able to cut that down to 10, now that I know what I’m doing.

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[98RangerDave]

Which leafs did you use?

I went with ICON leafs:

https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com...er-multi-rate-leaf-pack-spring-w-add-in-leaf/

 

[TJC]

Before I rat myself out for doing something incredibly stupid and getting ribbed about it, I must ask, Who hasn't done something completely boneheaded? But honestly, feel free to enjoy this story. I wish I was making it up.... but I am not. I am telling it to perhaps keep someone else from doing something this... well... STUPID!

I had just changed my transmission fluid for the last time and this time I was shooting for a 25K interval that would get me to 50K before changing the filter and installing the PPE Deep Transmission pan that I had sitting on the shelf for the last year.

Having just changed the fluid I wanted to insure I had the level correct. I'm 70 years old and when the fluid is hot it is very difficult for me to see on the dipstick. So I thought to myself...what can I do to alleviate this problem... and after pondering for a quick 2 minutes I came up with a brainstorm! I cut a 1" piece of white heatshrink that just fit over the dip stick, marked it with indelible ink, and slid it on the dipstick at the proper location, and heated it up nice and tight. I figured I could then see the level and remove the heat shrink after the quick dip into the transmission pan.

I tested the grip of the heat shrink and I couldn't move it with a flat blade screw driver so I figured I was good to go. I inserted the dipstick and immediately pulled it back up.... with NO HEAT SHRINK!!

It was gone! I mean GONE!!

I turned off the truck and pondered on my dilemma. It clearly fell off...is it in one piece? Did it dissolve? Mild PANIC ensued! Surely the filter will catch it. I settled on "Gotta get it out!"

So I sat down and finished a diagram a couple of days ago using Sean's (seanellaz) bolt pattern chart as inspiration, I modified PPE's bolt pattern tightening sequence, included bits of Ford's Official fill procedure from 307-01 Automatic Transmission - 10 Speed Automatic Transmission - 10R80 General Procedures, and added a pinch of practical Fluid level checking wisdom of Youtube's Ford Tech Makuloco. Here's my new chart updated from what I learned after the install and fluid level check.

This image perspective s looking down into the pan.

BTW, A public "Thank you" to Sean (seanellaz) for creating and posting his chart.

Anyway, I successfully installed the PPE Deep Transmission pan yesterday, and modified my original diagram and instructions for what worked for me.

I pulled out 5 qt of fluid 4 days ago, another qt 3 days ago, and yet another qt 2 days ago. I pulled almost another qt from what was left in the pan and filter yesterday when I removed the pan.
So almost 8 qts were pulled out over 4 days time.

Here's a picture of the pan...with the errant heat shrink in the bottom, in one piece no less. I'll clean it up in the morning.

The deep pan holds 1,75 quarts more than the stock pan, so I rounded up to 7 qts total plus 16oz of LubeGard Platinum for the initial fill to be on the safe side.

I started the truck and ran it through the gears, but did not drive it per Ford instructions, then checked the fluid level. It did not register on the dip stick! I added another quart and waited for the fluid to settle in the dipstick, and it still did not register. As it warmed up it moved into the expected hatch marks under 6.

I drove it at that level for a short distance and the transmission was shifting smooth. On flat ground the shifts were not noticeable. Going up hill under throttle the shifts could be felt but they were still very smooth. Drove like new!

Parked it and let it sit overnight so I could measure the level cold (just for curiosities sake), and as it warmed up, then at 205F-215F.

This morning I broke out my xTools D8 diagnostic and set it to monitor the trans fluid temp, got the transmission fluid temps up to the 206F-215F range and checked to see if I am in the 4-5 window, which will validate Ford Tech Makuluco's filling procedure.

Note: Fluid measured using using the FitzStick - Used Throttle Braking to increase transmission temps. There is quite a range fluctuation in the fluid readings at different temps!

Note: I will be updating this with current data shortly
- Cold Static engine not started - Fluid level right on diamond between 1 and 2
- Engine started cold, trans run through the gears at 5 second intervals - Fluid level just shows 1/8" on tip.
- @ 215F - Fluid level right on diamond between 4 and 5

All in all, I ended up pulling out right at~8 qts and put in just under 10 qts (this includes 16oz of LubeGard Platinum).

It appears that filling the transmission to within the hatch marks (the 1/4" area below 6) or if using the FitzStick to the top of the bend at the stick end will get you really close to the fill target when at the 205F-215F temperature range. But this must be completed right when you start the truck and slide through the gear range waiting 5 seconds in each gear. Once the fluid warms it quickly expands. I'd really like to see others validate this.

I did observe that to achieve an accurate reading on the dipstick when hot, pull it out quickly and level it. The fluid moves very easily when it is hot.

After the next drive I'll check the level one last time with temps at normal driving range. I suspect this will be the cold reading referred to by Ford Tech Makuluco - between 5-6. Hopefully this will keep me from needing to heat it up to 205F-215F next time around. Validation Req'd Update shortly

And please don't try heatshrink on your FitzStick!

And Mr Fitzstick, Your silver funnel performed admirably! And it matches my Iconic Silver paint too! Thanks again,

 

[ControlNode]

Changed the oil. The Valvomax plug works great, even with the ARB skids. I’m going to order a longer hose for the changes in the future, but… it made quick work of the change.


I also installed my Wolf Haus adapter in the bed. I’ll change Forscan tomorrow to allow it to run my fridge overnight.

also did the first setup of our new tent. We needed something large enough for a crib for the kiddo.

the first setup took 15-20 minutes but I’ll be able to cut that down to 10, now that I know what I’m doing.

Yeap, the Valvomax is great, long hose on mine and I drain it right into a 5 gallon bucket at the front of the truck.

On the overnight frig power, I think an auxiliary battery with a isolator would be better and prevent ever having too little power in the truck's primary battery to start it.

 

[TJC]

Changed the oil. The Valvomax plug works great, even with the ARB skids. I’m going to order a longer hose for the changes in the future, but… it made quick work of the change.

I've got them on all 3 of my cars. No more pans to remove and no mess!

 

[RedDakooter05]

also did the first setup of our new tent. We needed something large enough for a crib for the kiddo.

the first setup took 15-20 minutes but I’ll be able to cut that down to 10, now that I know what I’m doing.

Ah, so that's what this elusive thing they call "Affordable Housing" is.

 

[LaBalbe]

Which leafs did you use?

You know it's playoff season when my first thought on reading this question was "As long as it's not the (Toronto) Maple Leafs, otherwise he'll never make it past the first round."

 

[Cabose-1]

Gave my Ranger a big hug. Went to san antonio to see disturbed over the weekend. Concert was friday. Well, sunday morning walked out to the parking lot

Three f150s all missing taillights!!

I had a tonneau cover and was parked out front of office. Only one way in and out of parking lot. So who knows.

 

[98RangerDave]

Question here:

I have a 2020 Ranger FX2 ( RWD) and would like to set the lift notch to the highest setting but the install instructions say it’s not recommended. I have the ICON upper control arms that help correct the caster issues that come with lifting the front end. Since I have the caster correcting arms, would I be able to use the highest setting on the 6112s on the RWD Ranger?

 

[OGMix376]

Question here:

I have a 2020 Ranger FX2 ( RWD) and would like to set the lift notch to the highest setting but the install instructions say it’s not recommended. I have the ICON upper control arms that help correct the caster issues that come with lifting the front end. Since I have the caster correcting arms, would I be able to use the highest setting on the 6112s on the RWD Ranger?

I’m not super sure about this.. but I think the not recommending max setting has more to do with the travel of the rod in the shocks and not actually the caster issue.. again idk this as a absolute..
It could also be when you set something to max.. you’re putting the product at its designed limit… like you can play your sound system at max volume, but it’s not recommended. If it’s max 3” you might want to only use the 2.5-2.75 as your actual maximum..
This is just my thoughts on the subject.. I wouldn’t max it out… I’d leave a little buffer between the things slapping into the limits of the stuffs.
Hope you get a better answer than mine.

 

[98RangerDave]

I’m not super sure about this.. but I think the not recommending max setting has more to do with the travel of the rod in the shocks and not actually the caster issue.. again idk this as a absolute..
It could also be when you set something to max.. you’re putting the product at its designed limit… like you can play your sound system at max volume, but it’s not recommended. If it’s max 3” you might want to only use the 2.5-2.75 as your actual maximum..
This is just my thoughts on the subject.. I wouldn’t max it out… I’d leave a little buffer between the things slapping into the limits of the stuffs.
Hope you get a better answer than mine.

thanks for your thoughts on this. The thing that has me questioning if the rod inside the shock would be long enough or not is on the install instructions. It does allow the highest position to be used with a four-wheel-drive model. But with the 2 Wheel Dr. model, it says to only go to the second to last highest notch. I’m assuming this is due to the extra weight of the 4 x 4 system. But I’m also questioning if that due to the fact that the 4 x 4 system has the driveshaft that could bind. Whereas there are 2 Wheel Dr. does not have that binding issue. I sent an email to Bilstein asking for additional details. If I get a clear answer, I will be sure to share with everyone.

 

[OGMix376]

thanks for your thoughts on this. The thing that has me questioning if the rod inside the shock would be long enough or not is on the install instructions. It does allow the highest position to be used with a four-wheel-drive model. But with the 2 Wheel Dr. model, it says to only go to the second to last highest notch. I’m assuming this is due to the extra weight of the 4 x 4 system. But I’m also questioning if that due to the fact that the 4 x 4 system has the driveshaft that could bind. Whereas there are 2 Wheel Dr. does not have that binding issue. I sent an email to Bilstein asking for additional details. If I get a clear answer, I will be sure to share with everyone.

The weight would keep it from being fully extended during the ride on the heavier 4x4.. the two wheel drive front end being lighter..because of the spring the ride would be more prone to contacting the critical limit of the shock travel… instead of bottoming out it would be topping out? (Or is it vise versa,idk you get what I mean.).. that split second when the spring pushes back out the shock.. I think is your enemy here..
The buffer space is truly your max safe use height… or compromise the integrity of the product.
Maybe use the recommended notch, then get a short spacer for the top to gain the desired height perhaps?

the rod is forced into the safe zone via the heavier weight of the 4x4.. so technically your ride height at the recommended max will sit the same as a 4x4 on the 3rd notch (maximum height setting) I suppose, but I’m just a knuckle head on the internet ?

 

[98RangerDave]

The weight would keep it from being fully extended during the ride on the heavier 4x4.. the two wheel drive front end being lighter..because of the spring the ride would be more prone to contacting the critical limit of the shock travel… instead of bottoming out it would be topping out? (Or is it vise versa,idk you get what I mean.).. that split second when the spring pushes back out the shock.. I think is your enemy here..
The buffer space is truly your max safe use height… or compromise the integrity of the product.
Maybe use the recommended notch, then get a short spacer for the top to gain the desired height perhaps?

the rod is forced into the safe zone via the heavier weight of the 4x4.. so technically your ride height at the recommended max will sit the same as a 4x4 on the 3rd notch (maximum height setting) I suppose, but I’m just a knuckle head on the internet ?

I think you’re spot on with the spacer idea. I’ve read online (just can’t find where at the moment) that the Tremor package uses a factory strut spacer to gain the higher ride height compared to other models. I may try to source that Tremor spacer first, if I can’t though, maybe I can find a small 1/2” to 3/4” strut spacer to place on the top my 6112

 

[pickettf3nce]

I added some ditch/hood lights and an auxiliary switch panel in-cab.
The stock headlights and LED fog lights just weren't cutting it while tooling around out in the dark desert, mountains, and forests nearby... We simply couldn't see nearly wide or far enough for comfort.

Mounted (x2) 5in spot/flood combo light pods. a 6-gang switch panel and relay system and tapped the power-steering fuse for accessory power... If anyone wants additional pictures, parts links, or more details, let me know and I'll send those over or do a bit of a write-up.

Testing the daytime running lights:

Mocking up the relay box:
I utilized a couple old L-brackets I had laying around, drilled some pilot holes in the body and used metal-to-metal self-tappers to create a drop bracket and place the box below the front plastic trim behind the driver's side headlight. When mounted here, the relay box can still be opened to access the fuses, and the headlight bulbs are mostly accessible without moving anything around.

Cheap brackets with washers added for a better "bite" and stability.

Took the new setup out for testing yesterday evening, and I'd say they already paid for themselves. Had a pack of 4 mule deer run out in the road ahead of us, and we were able to spot them at roughly twice the distance my headlights and fog lights were able to make them visible at.

 

[BaronVonRanger]

Here are a few pics of the completed rear seat

The leather still has some wrinkles from where it was folded into the box, but they are smoothing out nicely.

The center armrest, which I thought would be easy, was a pain.

Also included a pic of the seat foam.

The foam is marked where the hog rings go.

I'll post more details of the project when it's complete.

Here's a stock stone color rear seat

And the updates

I may have missed it but what brand and where did you get the seat covers?

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