Adequacy of Factory FX4 Transfer Case Skid Plate?

[lazynorse]

I'm considering an RCI 1/4" aluminum skid plate kit to replace the stock FX4 skid plates. The RCI motor skid is x2 piece and covers much further back from the factory FX4 front plate. Also looking at RCI transmission skid, a large rectangular piece.

RCI also have and include in their full kit a transfer case skid, a sort of rectangular skid, also of 1/4" aluminum. That piece alone is $282.

I'm looking at the factory FX4 skid for the transfer case, and I'm trying to imagine the adequacy or inadequacy of it, realistically. I'm thinking a small, ribbed 'U' channel shape of steel might be plenty strong to deflect a hit. I could save myself, after tax and shipping, just over $300 by not including the RCI replacement.

Any experts out there? What's your assessment? The increased coverage and strength of the x2 piece engine and transmission skid is undeniable. This transfer case one? Hmm..

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[Dereku]

The real question here, are you actually going to take serious hits on the skid plates beyond what the factory engine one can handle? Or are you just buying these because they look cool and peace of mind for running over IEDs?

Serious question, because if you intend to grind over some stumps or rocks, then the factory T case one is inadequate it will most likely get hung up on said rocks.

One smooth underbelly would be better for everything, maybe even mpgs. Those hypermilers do bellypans, not out of 1/4 aluminum tho.

 

[lazynorse]

The real question here, are you actually going to take serious hits on the skid plates beyond what the factory engine one can handle? Or are you just buying these because they look cool and peace of mind for running over IEDs?

Serious question, because if you intend to grind over some stumps or rocks, then the factory T case one is inadequate it will most likely get hung up on said rocks.

One smooth underbelly would be better for everything, maybe even mpgs. Those hypermilers do bellypans, not out of 1/4 aluminum tho.

Fair points, each and all. In the last year, we spent two weeks camping in Utah, did White Rim Trail and nearby Moab trails, then on to San Rafael Swell. Before that, 10 days in remote SW Idaho/SE Oregon Owyhee Canyons. True low range 4wd driving. Plenty areas where a mistake could grind your underside but decent driving skills and good lines have spared me so far. Not rock crawling like Jeeps on 38s would do. I’ve got a 3” lift on 32s. I suppose a touring, ‘overland’ rig for moderate 4 wheeling.

AT tires, bit of lift and good decisions have been more important than skids so far. I’m planning a trip to northern Nevada, from Black Rock to Jarbidge, pretty remote, just wife and I like all our trips. I’m wringing hands over whether this bit of insurance is worth the money.

 

[QuickSilver]

My 2 cents, I look to see where I keep hitting and then upgrade those parts. First thing I bent was the factory steps, no surprise, so I bought rock sliders, next place was the truck box behind the wheels, so will be addressing height and maybe high clearance bumpers, and so on. Lots of hits on the front skid but it’s doing the job, the skid on the gas tank has a good hit and I will prob beef that up.

 

[Dereku]

Well sounds like you are in a remote area a lot. A hit to the T case would leave you stranded and potentially destroy your transmission. Are either of those worth $400 in insurance lol. We know the answer.

I say go for it. What if you get stuck and the only way out is to drag your belly across something unpleasant? Would be easier to not worry verses being stuck or broke. Just my 25 cents.

 

[Vr22s]

Fair points, each and all. In the last year, we spent two weeks camping in Utah, did White Rim Trail and nearby Moab trails, then on to San Rafael Swell. Before that, 10 days in remote SW Idaho/SE Oregon Owyhee Canyons. True low range 4wd driving. Plenty areas where a mistake could grind your underside but decent driving skills and good lines have spared me so far. Not rock crawling like Jeeps on 38s would do. I’ve got a 3” lift on 32s. I suppose a touring, ‘overland’ rig for moderate 4 wheeling.

AT tires, bit of lift and good decisions have been more important than skids so far. I’m planning a trip to northern Nevada, from Black Rock to Jarbidge, pretty remote, just wife and I like all our trips. I’m wringing hands over whether this bit of insurance is worth the money.

I spend quite a bit of time out in San Rafael Swells, and have hit my skid plates a fair amount of times. buy mostly just the front. I would be lying if I hadnt had that same though about the tcase plate. But I have yet to even scratch it.

However it is still on my list of things to replace. Some places I want to get to need a bit more protection and I havnt been ballsy enough to try yet.

 

[WOADKIL]

Gotta agree that the partial curved design of the transfer case skid plate looks inadequate for hardcore rock crawling. I scrape my underbelly often but not on very jagged rocks. If I saw a good deal on a better plate I would go for it.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

Another option to look into that has good reviews is the ARB Skid Plate Set

Edit: It looks like the ARB kit doesn't include a transfer case skid.

About the same price.

Several members on here have them and are pleased.

Also, 589 Fab has skid plates.

Not that I'm saying any of these are better than what you're looking at, just pointing out other options to shop before making your decision.

 

[Utope]

I have the RCI engine and transmission skid plates with the factory transfer case. Here's the state of it currently. The shape makes it hard to completely smash in the transfer case, but it is a bit of a pain to remove now. If anything, I'll cut a piece of scrap steel and drill holes when I'm back at the farm some day.

 

[Frenchy]

As one who had that skid plate on the Ranger before, it's certainly not the best but it is better than not having one. Does the Aftermarket make better ones? Probably, but it depends on the trails you plan to go on(and don't say Forest Roads as they can vary from a basic dirt road to a Rock Crawler Trail). Personally I like the ARB Skid Plates. Some say they are weak, but I feel would be better suited for most individuals.

 

[lazynorse]

I have the RCI engine and transmission skid plates with the factory transfer case. Here's the state of it currently. The shape makes it hard to completely smash in the transfer case, but it is a bit of a pain to remove now. If anything, I'll cut a piece of scrap steel and drill holes when I'm back at the farm some day.

Looks like you whacked it and it did its job. I’m leaning towards deprioritizing it’s replacement.

 

[Charley]

"I could save myself, after tax and shipping, just over $300 by not including the RCI replacement."
and "decent driving skills and good lines have spared me so far."

Interesting comments. That price is most likely less than 1 percent of what you paid for your vehicle. Its a one time insurance payment.

As a novice I had no problem purchasing the aluminum Shrockworks (no longer in business) skid plates. Was well worth it.
Never can tell when a trail will be muddy (or sandy or loose rocks) and you end up sliding down a bit out of the line chosen.

For your travels, I believe it will be money well spent.

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