What did you receive in the mail today for your Ranger?

[TJC]

I bought this for gapping my NGK Ruthenium Spark Plugs that just went in my Ranger. A little expensive from Amazon at $16. Kept me from damaging the tip.

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[LawnMM]

One can never have enough tools!

I bought this for gapping my NGK Ruthenium Spark Plugs that just went in my Ranger. A little expensive from Amazon at $16. Kept me from damaging the tip.

Don't ever wanna damage your tip! ??

 

[lariat]

I like doing stuff myself when it's within my ability, I just don't currently have the right tools

Gonna have to buy more ??‍?

I used to have this mindset, but then would end up starting projects that I couldn't finish b/c I didn't have the correct tool, socket size, etc.

 

[Big Blue]

I bought this for gapping my NGK Ruthenium Spark Plugs that just went in my Ranger. A little expensive from Amazon at $16. Kept me from damaging the tip.

OOH, and you can get it in blue to match my truck! A project is the best excuse to buy new tools! ???

Oh, and I'll need to buy the top cabinet for my bottom cabinet to have a safe place for it. ?

 

[LawnMM]

Even with some tools, kind of a pita, if you've never done it before, I hadn't. So keep the wheels on the ground to get the old links off, it's ten times harder fighting the weight of the linkage and the sway bar if you pull the wheel first.

Then once the old ones are off, loose goose fit the new ones, if the sway bar is a little high you can start lifting the corner with a jack and the weight of the linkage and wheel will pull it down and help you line it up, or vice versa.

Once you have it in and the bolts are on kinda loose, hand tight, etc, if you think with your tools and torque wrench pulling the wheel is worth it, go to it. Definitely necessary for torquing the side that's recessed inside the knuckle.

Honestly don't see how you can torque the other side without a lift or a big set of ramps to give you the room to get at it from below. I recommend gorilla tight and chill.

Comparison photo, super easy to get to the zerk fittings if you just full lock the wheels to the opposite side

 

[shovelhd]

Let us know how these hold up. I've always used Moog for end links.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Even with some tools, kind of a pita, if you've never done it before, I hadn't. So keep the wheels on the ground to get the old links off, it's ten times harder fighting the weight of the linkage and the sway bar if you pull the wheel first.

Then once the old ones are off, loose goose fit the new ones, if the sway bar is a little high you can start lifting the corner with a jack and the weight of the linkage and wheel will pull it down and help you line it up, or vice versa.

Once you have it in and the bolts are on kinda loose, hand tight, etc, if you think with your tools and torque wrench pulling the wheel is worth it, go to it. Definitely necessary for torquing the side that's recessed inside the knuckle.

Honestly don't see how you can torque the other side without a lift or a big set of ramps to give you the room to get at it from below. I recommend gorilla tight and chill.

Comparison photo, super easy to get to the zerk fittings if you just full lock the wheels to the opposite side

My old garage was so small, I would have to move my truck out to get to my floor jack. I replaced one of the OEM links because of a torn boot and I didn’t use my jack. I don’t recall exactly how I managed it but I either loosened the anti-sway bar clamps or simply pried on the end of it and was able to get enough play to line things up.

 

[AzScorpion]

Alex, I'd be more worried when you hear the chainsaw fire up!

 

[Colo_Ranger]

my drain plug arrived today. I’ll be doing my oil changes from now on and this will allow me to leave the skid plates on. Which is nice because I have the ARB and they are heavy.

 

[lariat]

Even with some tools, kind of a pita, if you've never done it before, I hadn't. So keep the wheels on the ground to get the old links off, it's ten times harder fighting the weight of the linkage and the sway bar if you pull the wheel first.

Then once the old ones are off, loose goose fit the new ones, if the sway bar is a little high you can start lifting the corner with a jack and the weight of the linkage and wheel will pull it down and help you line it up, or vice versa.

Once you have it in and the bolts are on kinda loose, hand tight, etc, if you think with your tools and torque wrench pulling the wheel is worth it, go to it. Definitely necessary for torquing the side that's recessed inside the knuckle.

Honestly don't see how you can torque the other side without a lift or a big set of ramps to give you the room to get at it from below. I recommend gorilla tight and chill.

Comparison photo, super easy to get to the zerk fittings if you just full lock the wheels to the opposite side

Now all you need is new UCA's.

Do you like how it drives now?

 

[LawnMM]

Now all you need is new UCA's.

Do you like how it drives now?

Ran out of time before I got the passenger side done, I'll finish it up on Monday ??‍

 

[AzScorpion]

 

[Bsenecal]

Yikes, ?.
Brian

 

[IdahoRanger]

...or Anthony weiner who deserves that.

 

[LawnMM]

Now all you need is new UCA's.

Do you like how it drives now?

Got the other one on before work today. Tried another approach for torque, tried a torque adapter and shorter ratchet instead of the beastly torque wrench that normally handles 85lb ft of torque... also unsuccessful

There really isn't room in there for a torque wrench on the bottom of the end link. My suggestion stands, tighten as tight as you possibly can and call it good. Best measurement I could manage with the torque driver, due to lack of space and leverage was 50+

I believe you can go higher by just muscling it the issue is attaching the equipment to measure it you don't have the room.

Also, you'll have to school me on the UCAs, what's the allure there? Better bushings? Stronger? Do they offer more travel or what?

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