Larger tire on a stock height Tremor? Solved.. 275-70-17

[DrPep]

So I’ll need atleast 1/4” wheel spacers for thems to fit and safely clear the knuckle… nuts.. you know your stuff too, so I’m gonna have to source some wheel spacers.. I was hopeful I wouldn’t need spacers or the high clearance crash/intrusion bars with the 275’s like fitz I think was hopeful for as well… welp my plan just got a tad more expensive ? bye bye profit from the tile job I just finished. ?… oh well that’s why I did the side job anyway.. sorry fitzmotor looks like bare minimum is going to be 1/4” spacers (I’m gonna go 1” or 1-1/4” spacers.) and high clearance bars.. to fit anything more aggressive than the 265/70-17R…last thing I wanna do is rip up the inside side of the tire on the knuckles it a attempt to save a few bucks..

I've been through all this myself. First had spacers installed but changed my mind and went for new wheels+tires instead. Currently running 285/70 AT4W. I think in either case you'll have to remove the crash bars, and in my case I also had to take out the plastic block that's behind the rear crash bars. I invented a lot of new curses trimming those rear ones.

If you decide to go with spacers, I still have the ones I took off. Faction fab hub centric 1". Haven't had a chance to post them up for sale yet but feel free to reach out.

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[OGMix376]

UPDATE: @Fitzmotor and @OGMix376 - Definitely wait to hear from others - I just remembered reading the Tremor wheels have a +42mm offset.

I think you should both wait to hear from someone with real world Tremor experience on this before making your final decision. I wouldn’t want you to spend money needlessly or settle on something less without getting what you really wanted, because I might not have been 100% certain of something.



1” or 1-1/4” spacers might push your wheels too close to the crash bars when they are turned. It’s a thing that doesn’t make sense when you hear it but it happens. The high clearance crash bars would come in handy.



It’s surprising what a difference a small amount of tread wear makes to the appearance of the truck.

Appreciate that brother, I’m going with the 1-1/4” and crash bars since they were already a part of the future plan to fit larger tires and the smidge wider stance. So for me you’re not at all causing me to spend extra (thank you for being so thoughtful about my wallet too?.)

..A bit of life is getting in the way so it’s pushed back the finished product plans for our Tremor a tad.. 275’s were going to be to add a bit more tire and new rubber since my oem shoes are starting to look like some worn out nikes ?..

(honestly I’d really like some true 33’s on, but I don’t think that’s feasible with the tremor wheels which I want to keep since I really like the way they look.)
unless I can find some wheels that look exactly like them and will come in a 17-18” size that will fit them (offset/backspacing and such) true 33’s without spacers…if I can find those that would be awesome for when I pull the trigger on the suspension in about 10-15k miles.

 

[Fitzmotor]

I will be happy if I can fit in 275-70 -17's, the Falcon Wildpeaks AT3W are available in that size!

 

[NerkyMohawk]

I've been through all this myself. First had spacers installed but changed my mind and went for new wheels+tires instead. Currently running 285/70 AT4W. I think in either case you'll have to remove the crash bars, and in my case I also had to take out the plastic block that's behind the rear crash bars. I invented a lot of new curses trimming those rear ones.

If you decide to go with spacers, I still have the ones I took off. Faction fab hub centric 1". Haven't had a chance to post them up for sale yet but feel free to reach out.

That plastic block was a pain in the ass. I removed the front crash bars when I installed my hidden winch but decided to wait for new tires to do the rear crash bars.

Between the block and the crash bars what i told my wife was a 30 min to hour 1 or 2 beer job out in the garage turned into 2+ hours and a 6 pack of beer.

 

[DrPep]

That plastic block was a pain in the ass. I removed the front crash bars when I installed my hidden winch but decided to wait for new tires to do the rear crash bars.

Between the block and the crash bars what i told my wife was a 30 min to hour 1 or 2 beer job out in the garage turned into 2+ hours and a 6 pack of beer.

I spread it out over a few days because when I had one rear bar out I lacked the willpower to start on the second. Also blunted more than a few sawzall blades. And then for those plastic blocks I found a guide online, but it didn't account for a few hard to reach extra screws that I had to remove.

Probably my least favorite DIY project on the truck, and I've done rock sliders and run electrical wire all over, which also sucked, but not nearly as much...

 

[NerkyMohawk]

I spread it out over a few days because when I had one rear bar out I lacked the willpower to start on the second. Also blunted more than a few sawzall blades. And then for those plastic blocks I found a guide online, but it didn't account for a few hard to reach extra screws that I had to remove.

Probably my least favorite DIY project on the truck, and I've done rock sliders and run electrical wire all over, which also sucked, but not nearly as much...

I didn't go the Sawzall route, I removed or loosened components till I could slide the crashbars out. Same issue with the extra screws on the block, the guide I looked at made it seem so easy.

 

[DrPep]

I didn't go the Sawzall route, I removed or loosened components till I could slide the crashbars out. Same issue with the extra screws on the block, the guide I looked at made it seem so easy.

Yeah that's what I should have done too, but once I got started it was hard to turn back. There's probably a life lesson in there somehow.

 

[Msfitoy]

I spread it out over a few days because when I had one rear bar out I lacked the willpower to start on the second. Also blunted more than a few sawzall blades. And then for those plastic blocks I found a guide online, but it didn't account for a few hard to reach extra screws that I had to remove.

Probably my least favorite DIY project on the truck, and I've done rock sliders and run electrical wire all over, which also sucked, but not nearly as much...

You can remove all the bars without cutting them...

 

[Fitzmotor]

Well, I ordered the 275-70-17's, it will be interesting to see how they fit

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Well, I ordered the 275-70-17's, it will be interesting to see how they fit

They’re going to look great. If you need a tiny bit more crash bar clearance for peace of mind, you can remove the covers from the front bars, then loosen the bolts, angle them out of the way, then tighten - leave the covers off. Same for the rears but they don’t have covers.

If you want to test for rubbing at full lock, do a quick 3-point turn with exaggerated braking and acceleration. You’ll get decent compression of the front suspension and you’ll quickly know if you’re rubbing.

Good luck!

 

[Chris M]

Well, I ordered the 275-70-17's, it will be interesting to see how they fit

Prepare to post many pictures.
After all the agonizing you've done (and we have done with you), you KNOW we wanna see the fruits of your labor! ?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Appreciate that brother, I’m going with the 1-1/4” and crash bars since they were already a part of the future plan to fit larger tires and the smidge wider stance. So for me you’re not at all causing me to spend extra (thank you for being so thoughtful about my wallet too?.)

..A bit of life is getting in the way so it’s pushed back the finished product plans for our Tremor a tad.. 275’s were going to be to add a bit more tire and new rubber since my oem shoes are starting to look like some worn out nikes ?..

(honestly I’d really like some true 33’s on, but I don’t think that’s feasible with the tremor wheels which I want to keep since I really like the way they look.)
unless I can find some wheels that look exactly like them and will come in a 17-18” size that will fit them (offset/backspacing and such) true 33’s without spacers…if I can find those that would be awesome for when I pull the trigger on the suspension in about 10-15k miles.

With those spacers and Tremor wheels, expect to see a noticeable amount of poke. If I’ve done the math correctly, 1-1/4” spacers and +42mm offset wheels nets out at roughly +10mm of offset and 1” spacers would put you at about +17mm of offset.

I have +15mm offset wheels with 275/70R17 General Grabber A/TX so your truck’s wheels will look a bit like this…

The small increase in height will seem HUGE and you will notice how they fill in the wheel well.

Your awesome Tremor wheel well trim pieces, that I’m totally jealous of btw, will tame a bit of that poke.

 

[OGMix376]

With those spacers and Tremor wheels, expect to see a noticeable amount of poke. If I’ve done the math correctly, 1-1/4” spacers and +42mm offset wheels nets out at roughly +10mm of offset and 1” spacers would put you at about +17mm of offset.

I have +15mm offset wheels with 275/70R17 General Grabber A/TX so your truck’s wheels will look a bit like this…

The small increase in height will seem HUGE and you will notice how they fill in the wheel well.

Your awesome Tremor wheel well trim pieces, that I’m totally jealous of btw, will tame a bit of that poke.

Thats a good looking truck btw great pictures.. with the tremor flares I can see what you mean it’ll be really close to what I’m looking for

 

[peterson1604]

I just installed the Falcon Wildpeaks A/T4W last week in a 265/70R17 and they are definitely a larger tire. I have the Ford Fox 2.0 lift and they look great but are a bit tight so a 1/4 inch spacer might be a good idea. No rubbing but come winter I'd like to avoid ice buildup. When I was at Discount Tire I had them pull out the Wildpeaks and General Grabber's so I could compare them and the Wildpeaks are both a bit taller and wider than the Grabber's.

 

[Msfitoy]

265/70-17 is factory optional size on FX4 and will clear as OEM intended...

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