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Which WDH and/or Sway Control Bar to get?

EJH

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Having that red arc trailer brake controller installed will certainly help you with stopping. If I'm not mistaken it also has a built-in feature where you can hit the brakes on the trailer without touching the brake pedal on the truck as needed. Double check the owner's manual for it as I'm not 100% positive.
Yeah, you can push the knob n the Redarc to brake the trailer by itself. This can correct sway. I also find it helpful on some steep descends where I have the engine downshifted to brake (without truck brakes engaged) but can engage the trailer brakes to assist.
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Big Blue

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I'm going to disagree with Frenchy here.

While not 100% necessary for that trailer, it is almost always a good idea to shift weight back onto the front of the truck, especially when towing long distances.

Also, a single axle trailer is usually more sensitive to sway and loading issues making it advantageous to just go ahead and equip the rig with one out of the gate. Not that you can ignore how you load the trailer with one, but it does free you up to put more weight toward the front of the trailer than you otherwise might, making for a more stable tow.
Totally agree. While the Ranger my not appear to squat much with that amount of tongue weight, it is still taking some weight off the front wheels. Remember these are your steering wheels and where most of your braking power is. Taking weight off the from allows the trailer to push the front of the truck around if you have a sway condition start due to a wind condition. The WDH will allow you to maintain at east the normal ammount of weight on the front end and maybe share the load with the rear end.
 

Frenchy

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Totally agree. While the Ranger my not appear to squat much with that amount of tongue weight, it is still taking some weight off the front wheels. Remember these are your steering wheels and where most of your braking power is. Taking weight off the from allows the trailer to push the front of the truck around if you have a sway condition start due to a wind condition. The WDH will allow you to maintain at east the normal ammount of weight on the front end and maybe share the load with the rear end.
Also remember that that usually comes into effect when you're doing a lot of squatting in the rear. You don't have to worry too much as long as the vehicle isn't exactly squatting.
 

Big Blue

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Just because it is not squatting does not mean it is not taking weight off the front wheels. If you put solid blocks in place of the springs it wouldn't squat at all, but the front end would still get lighter. The laws of leverage still apply.
 

notsolinear

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My suggestion to anyone considering skipping the WDH because they think they don’t need it is to go weigh your rig on a CAT scale just to be aware of your weights. I took my nearly empty 20’ trailer and nearly empty truck and found that, without the spring bars installed, I was 250 lbs away from my Rear GAWR. With the spring bars installed the weight on front and rear axles became identical (and lower). Without the WDH you probably couldn’t use the full “payload” rating unless most of it was up in the cab.
 


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06Warrior

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Yes, The E2 and the Husky are very similar in design. I do not know if the E2 uses the pivots at the ball assembly as a second point of sway control like the Husky. I have the Centerline TS model which uses the friction of the bar on the "L" bracket as well as friction at the trunion head for sway control. The pivot bolts can be adjusted for torgue. That is why it is considered 4 point control.

The model I have is the Centerline TS model Number 32215 good for 6000lb towing and 600 lb tongue weight. Comes with a 2" ball installed. They make the same hitch with a 2-5/16" ball if that's what your trailer needs. Just Go to Huskytow.com
I ordered the Husky Centerline TS model 32216 with the 2-5/16” ball. Should be here tomorrow. Thank you for the information.
 
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raytwntrvlr

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Don't know this for a fact but I have heard, and it makes sense, that having equal tire pressure is very important on single axle trailers. Also, as another mentioned, a rear facing camera setup is a nice add on.
 

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Don't know this for a fact but I have heard, and it makes sense, that having equal tire pressure is very important on single axle trailers. Also, as another mentioned, a rear facing camera setup is a nice add on.
The best thing to do with tire pressure is to have it where the manufacturer states to have it. That will be different with each trailer and tow vehicle
 

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I prefer the Equalizer. It’s sway control is excellent.
 

nm6r

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I researched anti-sway weight distributin hitches extensively when I wanted to get one. I opted for the Andersen. It has worked out amazing well and no need to disconnect anything when backing up. Keep in mind, it is counterproductive and a PITA if you have to disconnect to back up.

btw, I am approaching 6k lbs. fully loaded with sxs, water and supplies along with a fully loaded bed.

PXL_20230815_213047816-Edit copy.jpg
 

JeffD

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I bought the Fastway E2 in 1k/10k. My trailer is GD 17MKE. Scale weight loaded is 5040lbs. The hitch is heavier and overkill, but physically doesn't weigh that much more than the 7.5k version. The bars adjust my truck level and after 4k miles of towing my only complaint is the tiny gas tank (never pass a gas station)
 

Big Blue

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I bought the Fastway E2 in 1k/10k. My trailer is GD 17MKE. Scale weight loaded is 5040lbs. The hitch is heavier and overkill, but physically doesn't weigh that much more than the 7.5k version. The bars adjust my truck level and after 4k miles of towing my only complaint is the tiny gas tank (never pass a gas station)
Buying a hitch rated for more than what your trailer requires is not the best thing to do. Bigger is not always better. Too stiff of bars put extra stress on the trailer frame and also transfer more of the irregularities in the road to the tow vehicle. Causing a more uncomfortable ride. The bars need to flex to absorb these irregularities.

You maybe able to purchase lighter bars for your hitch. I know that my Husky hitch uses the same head assembly for several weight levels and I can buy stiffer bars if I would get a heavier trailer.
 

Frenchy

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Buying a hitch rated for more than what your trailer requires is not the best thing to do. Bigger is not always better. Too stiff of bars put extra stress on the trailer frame and also transfer more of the irregularities in the road to the tow vehicle. Causing a more uncomfortable ride. The bars need to flex to absorb these irregularities.

You maybe able to purchase lighter bars for your hitch. I know that my Husky hitch uses the same head assembly for several weight levels and I can buy stiffer bars if I would get a heavier trailer.
I will agree with this one. You always want to make sure you have the correct weight distribution hitch for your trailer.
 

dtech

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FYI , review of several wdh and explanations of how they work

campaddict.com/weight-distribution-hitch/?tl_inbound=1&tl_targe
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