What rating WDH - 6,000 or 8,000 lbs?

[EJH]

Looking for other's opinion on what they are using for WDH for trailers similar to mine:

Dry weight of 3,975 lbs, GVWR of 4,995 lbs and a dry hitch weight of 445 lbs. Here's the TT: Jayco 166FBS

I am looking at the E2 hitches with built in sway control. I purchased the 8,000 lbs Trunnion model, but it is a heavy, like 100 lbs. Not sure I like the idea of the hitch alone eating up that much weight (prior to installing the ball too). I feel like once I load the trailer, I could be at the 750 hitch rating for the Ranger.

I am wondering if I would be better off returning the 8,000 lbs model and getting the 6,000 lbs one. I bought from Etrailer and they should be good about a return.

Thoughts?

Sponsored

 

[Grumpaw]

First, the weight savings your going to see will be minimal. If you look at the hitch head, their pretty much the same. The difference in the weight rating is in the bars themselves, the heavier ratings come from the thickness of the bars themselves.
As far as the 7500 lb rating for the Ranger itself, that is based solely on the platform hitch itself, not the truck.
We have a Jayco 24RL on order, and it comes in at around 5800 lbs dry with a 650 tongue weight....I will be using a Blue Ox hitch with the same rating as you have now.....but for your weight what you have the bars may be a bit stiff.
I have delt with ETrailer many times and they are very knowledgeable. I would give them a call and get their input....they may just swap the bars out for a lighter set.
Also, check your trailer hitch coupling...see if it is an overslung or underslung coupler as they take a different type of WDH head. Over will be welded to the top of the trailer frame, under welded to the bottom of the frame. I believe most all new Jayco's use an underslung coupler.
Pic's first is underslung, second is standard overslung....

 

[EJH]

Thanks Grumpaw.

I will keep the 8,000/800 lbs model E2 WDH I have. I found another person with my same TT using that same hitch successfully. I am worried if I stepped down to a 6,000/600 lb rated hitch I will be too close, or over the 600 lbs limit when loaded.

I did call E-trailer, but managed to get a less than knowledgeable representative. However, when looking on E-trailer's website, when people ask what WDH for ~20' TTs, they are constantly being directed to an 8,000/800 model, and many of those TT are less weight than mine.

 

[Gil-galad]

I think the 8,000/800 model for your situation is the right choice. I have a 6,000/600 WDH for my 20' travel trailer but I'm at 2,900 dry, 3,700 GVWR, and a fully loaded hitch weight around 525.

Some RV dealers (e.g., Camping World) will grossly oversize the WDH on a new purchase of a smaller trailer because they don't want lots of different sized hitches in their inventory that may not match the RVs they are selling, and they sell more of the bigger TTs and 5th Wheels. I've seen a case where the aforementioned dealer slapped a 10,000/1,000 WDH on an SUV pulling a new 2,250 lb trailer. I've also seen photos of these sorts of mismatches after having driven through a steep ditch, or an incline such as the bottom of a steeply sloped driveway. Under this extreme angle, the trailer's A-frame bends long before those beefy 10,000 lb spring bars ever will. Not pretty.

 

[Grumpaw]

Scamming World is possibly the worst place to buy RV's and associated equipment.
They are after only one thing, "THE SALE". Their sales associates, for the most part, have very little knowledge of the rv's they are selling or the proper equipment and accessories that are needed.
Turnover for sales personnel is stupid high, their prices are high, and can almost always be beat on Amazon, ETrailer, or a number of other on line web sites.
Visit some RV owners web sites and I doubt you will see more than 10-15% of members who will shop there.
I was around when they first started in the early 70's, and they were a respected outlet. Now the company has snatched up or bought out numerous independent dealers, and have little competition, so they can get away with their tactics.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a water hose washer from them.

 

[awd.nv]

I would keep the 8k model personally. The hitch may weigh 100-120lbs but going to the 6k model may only save you 20-40lbs. Their specs should be on the manufacturer site. Don't mean this to sound rude but not worth it to me to try to save tongue weight by decreasing capability of a safety device.

I personally run an Equal-i-zer 10k unit because I do not want to have to upgrade in the future. Equal-i-zer tech support confirmed it wouldn't be an issue with my Geo Pro 19BH. I of course take the rods off once I hit dirt.

 

[EJH]

I would keep the 8k model personally. The hitch may weigh 100-120lbs but going to the 6k model may only save you 20-40lbs. Their specs should be on the manufacturer site. Don't mean this to sound rude but not worth it to me to try to save tongue weight by decreasing capability of a safety device.

I personally run an Equal-i-zer 10k unit because I do not want to have to upgrade in the future. Equal-i-zer tech support confirmed it wouldn't be an issue with my Geo Pro 19BH. I of course take the rods off once I hit dirt.

Good points.

Darn, I didn't even think about removing the rods. Do you do that even on forest roads that aren't ridiculous? I need to learn more. This is our first trailer.

 

[awd.nv]

Good points.

Darn, I didn't even think about removing the rods. Do you do that even on forest roads that aren't ridiculous? I need to learn more. This is our first trailer.

Sorry just saw this, only if I know it's smooth I will leave them on. The times I have been on dirt I take them off because of the amount of articulation I know that will happen, don't want to over stress the rods since they weren't made for off road use.

Sponsored