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Dorman transmission pan

RAYJAY

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Cmar

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I bought a vacuum pump waste bottle which came with a long plastic coated, flexible steel probe, I've managed to push it to the bottom of my pan through the filler hole, and suck out 4 litres of fluid at a time. But I did consider the doorman pan with the drain plug as it looks identical to the factory steel pan on my 6R80 auto. Will probably buy one and install it when I eventually change the filter.
 
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Grish

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If it was a factory steel pan I’d consider that route. With it being composite/plastic it’s just don’t something I’d want to risk cracking and suspect it would likely leak easier.
To an extent maybe. Between the stamped steel and plastic pans it is much easier to mass up the seal on the steel pans simply due to over tightening the bolts. It's more common than one would think. As long as you don't do that you are good, but the plastic pan is a little more forgiving there.
 


Cmar

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To an extent maybe. Between the stamped steel and plastic pans it is much easier to mass up the seal on the steel pans simply due to over tightening the bolts. It's more common than one would think. As long as you don't do that you are good, but the plastic pan is a little more forgiving there.
Until it gets old and brittle. I hate plastic parts on engines and transmissions.
 

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Until it gets old and brittle. I hate plastic parts on engines and transmissions.
It will still take a long time for that to be a concern
 

GitRDone

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It will still take a long time for that to be a concern
I have to agree, I have another vehicle with a plastic trans pan (also ZF) and it's a 2006.
 

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If it was a factory steel pan I’d consider that route. With it being composite/plastic it’s just don’t something I’d want to risk cracking and suspect it would likely leak easier.

the factory pan is composite/plastic . not steel
 

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It will still take a long time for that to be a concern
It does take a long time, but it will happen.

Just 2 years ago I replaced a plastic thermostat housing on my 2005 Ranger. It lasted 16 years. It was leaking everywhere... at the base where it mated to the engine, and at the seam where the thermostat was seated. I first replaced the O ring seals thinking that was the problem. Still leaked like a sieve. I ended up replacing it with a Dorman aftermarket all aluminum unit that is working perfectly... Cost of the unit was $32! And that included both sensors, gaskets, and thermostat!

Plastic intake manifolds will warp and leak over time as well.

I prefer aluminum over plastic parts. But I keep my cars and trucks for a very long time. I hope my present 3 outlast me!
 

RedlandRanger

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It does take a long time, but it will happen.

Just 2 years ago I replaced a plastic thermostat housing on my 2005 Ranger. It lasted 16 years. It was leaking everywhere... at the base where it mated to the engine, and at the seam where the thermostat was seated. I first replaced the O ring seals thinking that was the problem. Still leaked like a sieve. I ended up replacing it with a Dorman aftermarket all aluminum unit that is working perfectly... Cost of the unit was $32! And that included both sensors, gaskets, and thermostat!

Plastic intake manifolds will warp and leak over time as well.

I prefer aluminum over plastic parts. But I keep my cars and trucks for a very long time. I hope my present 3 outlast me!
I think Phil used to say there are 2 kinds of plastic - one that is broken, and one that is about to be broken. :LOL:

With that said, plastics have come a LONG ways.
 
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Frenchy

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It does take a long time, but it will happen.

Just 2 years ago I replaced a plastic thermostat housing on my 2005 Ranger. It lasted 16 years. It was leaking everywhere... at the base where it mated to the engine, and at the seam where the thermostat was seated. I first replaced the O ring seals thinking that was the problem. Still leaked like a sieve. I ended up replacing it with a Dorman aftermarket all aluminum unit that is working perfectly... Cost of the unit was $32! And that included both sensors, gaskets, and thermostat!

Plastic intake manifolds will warp and leak over time as well.

I prefer aluminum over plastic parts. But I keep my cars and trucks for a very long time. I hope my present 3 outlast me!
So what I'm understanding here is you have a problem with having to replace that one part every 16 years? That's much longer than what most people own a vehicle for. When you think about it that's really not too bad. If it wasn't the plastic housing it probably would have been the gasket you would have been replacing it that time anyways.
 

TJC

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So what I'm understanding here is you have a problem with having to replace that one part every 16 years? That's much longer than what most people own a vehicle for. When you think about it that's really not too bad. If it wasn't the plastic housing it probably would have been the gasket you would have been replacing it that time anyways.
I misspoke! The part failed in year 17.

Yes, you are understanding me correctly. Like I said, I keep my vehicles as long as possible. The longer I keep one the lower the per year expense. $20K amortized over 20 years is $1K / year.

I just went through the 2005 truck from top to bottom and replaced everything except the transfer case. To break even on that expense will take 10 years @ $1K / year. Half the cost of new 2005 truck, and 1/4 the cost of a new Ranger.

So yes, making the part out of aluminum instead of plastic is a consideration when I purchase a vehicle. The mounting gasket would not have needed to be touched at all. And the truck is still on the original thermostat as well. Which would you prefer?

This..........................................................................vs.............This

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The only thing that failed in the first 16 years was the alternator at year 15. Even the water pump is still going with no sign of wear! I don't count wear items like brake pads or shocks.

I did have to replace the super cab door plastic latch cable ends on the 2005 with aluminum ones for $10. The plastic had crumbled away, not allowing me the open the back doors.... an hour job for both doors.
1703273990517.png


I just drove the 2005 Ranger on a 500 mile trip. Not a hiccup and it was absolutely smooth at 80mph. The wife commented on how she trusted it more than the 2020 Ranger. I hope to get the 2020 to the same level of reliability. And I will know by mid summer if that is possible. If not I will put it up for sale.

I have already sunk more maintenance $ in the 2020 Ranger in 3+ years than I did in the first 16 years of the 2005 Ranger.

I am not happy about that!
 

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Since the FitzStick is designed to work with the OEM pan - would changing the pan change the correct reading on the stick? Or is the pan depth moot?
 

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Since the FitzStick is designed to work with the OEM pan - would changing the pan change the correct reading on the stick? Or is the pan depth moot?
Pan depth is "moot". Larger/deeper pan just means you add more fluid, but just to bring it up to the proper level on the stick.
Stick just measures fluid level at it's proper level....NOT amount.
Also, stick dosen't enter the area from the pan, but from the trans housing, and stick protrudes the same amount of distance no matter what pan is there.
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