Dealer twice in 1 day, going back again

[airline tech]

The importance of knowing if the Door Opening would trigger the Wake Up, is to know if the PCM Relay was getting power, but after looking at it and you were able to remote start the truck, I concluded that the PCM Power Relay was getting power., as the PCM Power Relay (Wake) up is triggered on by both actions. (Remote Start) & (Door Opening)

The Relay is in the Engine Bay (Fuse Box) - #15 (Run/Start-Relay)

As Phil stated and how Dealerships work, they are driven to Code Based - Troubleshooting
There are times when you have to take all codes and throw them away as they will lead you down the wrong rabbit hole, Hence, they replaced the ABS module (Code Based) due to the fact that the ABS and PSCM are the (2) most logical modules in that Code List to be faulty.

I have seen many times dealers say, No Codes, No Problem Found - Drive It Awhile and see what happens.
I went through some of those Codes, but the problem is, unless the truck is in active failure at the time of the testing, they would never see the voltage missing on the modules past the Run/Start relay.

Now, since you have had the truck to the Dealer multiple times, talk to the actual tech that will be working on it.
They hate customer troubleshooting. And as you said, ignore you and throw it in the trash.
But I am very certain. with all the symptoms you have, the Run/Start Relay is the issue. Take all the codes and only focus on the Communication side of it, there are a lot of them, this points to a voltage loss somewhere and that somewhere points directly at the Run/Start) relay.
Tell him to look at the - Wiring Diagram for Power Distribution (Pg 2 of 7) or print off the PDF I included and hopefully he will see what I am looking at.

Be sure to inform him about being able to remote start the truck and then it dies (in gear)
and inform him of all the fault codes you get while driving it
Those (2) scenarios alone again point directly at the (Run/Start) relay, this is how I came to my conclusion. (Not via Codes) but by what the truck was actually doing (Owner's Input) and by using Owner's input followed the logic and then the code-based faults showed why they are being generated.

The Tech needs to be attentive and listen to you and have them look at the Run/Start relay first, check for voltage there with key on, and you should have a ground signal to the relay

You can check to relay itself (out of truck) by test leads, Positive on both upper legs, and apply ground on the BCM (Lower) leg, (you should hear a click) in the relay, and while that ground is applied, check for voltage on the output leg going to the modules.

If your beginning point starts at Code Based on this particular issue you are chasing your tail as it will force, you to look at many variables and take forever to locate the actual fault, (if that relay is not in current failure) they will not even think about it, as they will have positive test results for voltage.

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[NotBudule]

It would be nice if you could get the part # for that relay and see if they (or you ) could get one BEFORE they look at it ...

 

[airline tech]

Here is a cool video, but he does not cover (2) important relays.
He is only covering the Starter Relay -Itself), this relay is working, or you would not be able to remote start it.

Fuse #18 is the ignition switch fuse (IPC Panel -Fuse Box) -A quick check shows that that double fuse, splits - One Leg feeds the switch and one leg feeds the Power Distribution, have to dig into it some more to see what the Power Dist. leg actually feeds.

This video also, points out that if the Run/Start relay is not getting a good ground from the BCM then this is a possible reason why. But I feel that this fuse is good, so as a back-up possible.
The Ignition Switch Fuse

The (2) relays below the ones he is messing with are PCM Power Relay and Run/Start Relay

Starter Relay - Top One
Blower Motor Relay -Second in the Row
PCM - Power Relay - 3rd In the Row
Run/Start Relay - 4th in the Row.



2019 Ford Ranger Starter Relay, Starter Fuses & Circuit Explained - YouTube

 

[airline tech]

Update:

I wanted to dig into this a bit more and determine where the Ground comes from, for the signal side of the Run/Start Relay.

Fuse 18 - Is Ignition switch Power, if bad connection or blown on one of the legs of the fuse, the Ignition Switch will not provide the signal to the BCM that the Key is in the ignition.

When you put key-in Ignition, it sends a signal to the BCM
Inside the BCM is another (Micro-Switch)

The BCM sees (2) things Key In Signal and Key Position

The BCM (Micro-Switch) (Internal of BCM), will then control the Ground circuit at the Run/Start Relay.

So, this adds all of the Possibilities into the mix, that will cause your issue.
1. Bad Fuse #18
2. Bad Ignition Switch
3. Bad BCM or Power to it (Fuse)

The above (3) will affect the Run/Start Relay's ability to receive the Ground Signal, to complete the Control Side if the Circuit.

I am possibly going to rule out the PATS side of the circuit, as the PATS system will allow Remote Start - (Transmitter) Frequency Code from the Key/FOB

So, if the Run/Start Relay is receiving a Ground signal then all of the above is working as it should and you just have a Bad (Run/Start Relay)

But with the intermittent nature of the issue and the Relay's location (Engine Compartment) Hot and Cold temps, I am still thinking the Run/Start Relay is all it needs.

So, to pinpoint down a little deeper, will depend on what type of Power (None) or (Some) from that Ignition Switch when Key is In and rotated to Run or Start)
Do you get any headlights or parking lights?

 

[ppfd]

I could probably get to Kansas and have you fix this quicker and correctly faster than this ford garage ?

 

[Max Crafter]

imagine

1. Bad Fuse #18

if thats all it was?

 

[9zero1790]

ok so who wants to talk airline tech into coming up with a fix for the 10r80 !

 

[Jason B]

Airline,
Thank you!
You have done more for free then the ford garage is doing while getting paid.
And I get it, 8-10 hours on this nonsense when they could be doing a few simple jobs and making more money most likely.
So, how do I approach the garage about this? Print off the posts and give them to the manage and mechanic?
I just see them going in the trash when I leave.
And to answer a question from earlier, when I do open the door, lights come, dash lights up. And when the truck will key start the fuel pump kicks on, etc.

Dealer won’t even look at it till next week, and he gave me some bullshit about a loaner car.
I’m going to email/call the gal that opened my case and start the LL proceedings next week. I’m racking up miles on my GFs car and she’s putting miles on her Jeep when none of that should be happening, this is 10 times at least in close to 3 months now.

Have you at least disconnected all the lighting you added or any mods that you installed, i.e. grill lights?
It would suck to go thru a month of anguish to find it was something simple as bad wiring on your added lights.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Geezaloo Tony! Quit torturing yourself. There are things you can eliminate as the problem in less than 15 minutes.

Step One:

• Disconnect your grille lights and Wolf Haus (I think that’s all you installed)
• Test
• Fixed? No - leave those things disconnected and go to Step Two

Step Two:

• Buy the Run/Start Relay ($20-$30) and the #18 Fuse - swap them in…yourself!
• Test
• Fixed? No - don’t hook that stuff back up and continue with your dealer

If it works, you’re happy and if it doesn’t, big deal, you’re only out $30 and you know what it isn’t.

If the dealer‘s tech disconnects those aftermarket add-ons and it resolves the issue, be prepared for a huge bill and the explanation…”it was all the mods”.

 

[airline tech]

I am going to rule out the Grille Lights as the cause, due to this, but not completely until a resistance test is done on that specific circuit. (Park Lights) only just as a precaution to ensure a valid fix. (Since unknown for 100% certainty) if that circuit is screwing with the relay.

If the BCM functioned as intended and protected the system. In my wiring diagram and down in the lighting supply off of the (Run/Start) Relay you will see (FET) for all the exterior lights.
Individual for each light circuit

Note: The Codes it would generate and compare it to the Code List, he posted. None of these codes are on the Fault Code run

Field Effect Transistor (FET) Protection

The BCM utilizes an Field Effect Transistor (FET) protective circuit strategy for many of its outputs, for example, lamp output circuits. Output loads (current level) are monitored for excessive current (typically short circuits) and are shut down (turns off the voltage or ground provided by the module) when a fault is detected.

A Field Effect Transistor (FET) is a type of transistor that the control module software uses to control and monitor current flow on module outputs. The Field Effect Transistor (FET) protection strategy prevents module damage in the event of excessive current flow.

Output loads (current level) are monitored for excessive current draw (typically short circuits). When a fault event is detected the Field Effect Transistor (FET) turns off and a short circuit DTC sets. The module resets the Field Effect Transistor (FET) protection and allows the circuit to function when the fault is corrected or the ignition state is cycled off and then back on.

When the excessive circuit load occurs often enough, the module shuts down the output until a repair procedure is carried out. Each Field Effect Transistor (FET) protected circuit has three predefined levels of short circuit tolerance based on a module lifetime level of fault events based upon the durability of the Field Effect Transistor (FET). If the total tolerance level is determined to be 600 fault events, the three predefined levels would be 200, 400 and 600 fault events.

When each level is reached, the DTC associated with the short circuit sets along with DTC U1000:00. These Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be cleared using the module on-demand self-test, then the Clear DTC operation on the scan tool (if the on-demand test shows the fault corrected). The module never resets the fault event counter to zero and continues to advance the fault event counter as short circuit fault events occur.

If the number of short circuit fault events reach the third level, then Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) U1000:00 and U3000:49 set along with the associated short circuit DTC . DTC U3000:49 cannot be cleared and the module must be replaced after the repair.

 

[NotBudule]

Dealership mechanic after reading this thread...
And I'm NEVER flying again if airline techs have to be this smart just to keep them in the air ...

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Dealership mechanic after reading this thread...
And I'm NEVER flying again if airline techs have to be this smart just to keep them in the air ...

My mind drifted to this

 

[Max Crafter]

I know people like Airline who excel in their respective trades just like he does.
The funny thing is, you ask them to do a task that others seem menial, such as changing a mower drive belt on the old john deer lawn tractor and they couldnt do it for the life of them.
Always exploit peoples talents, even if its opening beers with their butt cheeks
We all have a place in this world.

 

[Superspirit]

As a retired drivability tech, I'm thoroughly enjoying airlinetech's assessment of what's going on. I always worked in an independent shop and wasn't forced to follow certain diagnostic strategies, therefore I was able to utilize the same strategies that airlinetech has been demonstrating. Really kind of miss that kind of mind stimulation.

 

[ppfd]

Picked the truck up last evening (Monday)

Ready for this..................
A loose, bare, broken wire in the steering column, per the lead tech/ mechanic, (what are they actually called now anyway?)
Service manager took a picture and the wire harness is covered in a foam wrap and there was a depressed spot that had a hole rubbed in it . You could see the wire was rubbed bare and must have been touching something. Also it had come loose from adjusting the steering wheel when I get in to drive and get out of the truck. Basically and up and down motion.

Manager said they had to push it in the garage, and it was spinning codes when they key fob started it and as I mentioned died when they turned the key to run and shifted into a gear.
Just like I told them.

Made a few stops on the way home and turned the engine on and off 3 or 4 times and no codes.
So maybe its fixed? Who knows?
Keep you all posted!

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