One Piece Driveshaft

[Jason B]

If you guys read through the threads about driveline take-off shudder and vibration you may find trying to achieve the proper angles on your driveshaft will not cure the issue. The problem seems to be more rooted in the soft support material around the driveshaft center bearing (some may call it a carrier bearing). I was one of the people who put a one piece driveshaft on my Ranger and the related problems are gone.

I was able to escalate my truck's issue to get attention by an FSE (field service engineer) luckily via a family member that works for Ford. The FSE reported after working with the local Ford tech that my truck's shudder was mild and was the best it would probably get. The story is much longer but for the sake of keeping brief I summarized. At that point I did my research and got a one piece driveshaft.

IMO, that's not the cause of the problem, it just allows the shaft to move more freely. The more likely cause is the design of the shaft with out-of-phase u-joints. And before we go down that path again, yes it was designed that way and is done on other vehicles besides Ford Rangers.

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[Fitzmotor]

I feel it's also the axle wrap up, the truck makes pretty good torque, the rear springs allow pinion climb, if you drop the pinion enough to stop the shudder on acceleration, it will vibrate at cruise or on deceleration.
The whole un-timed driveshaft thing baffles me, it's like they are trying to put it in a bind to control it's movement, or cancel out some other issue, I dont know.
I wish someone made a torque arm for our trucks, it really helped the F150 Raptors, they did it for wheel hop, but it also solves vibrations from rapid pinon angle change.

 

[navsnipe]

IMO, that's not the cause of the problem, it just allows the shaft to move more freely. The more likely cause is the design of the shaft with out-of-phase u-joints. And before we go down that path again, yes it was designed that way and is done on other vehicles besides Ford Rangers.

We are entitled to our opinions. I wish you success.

 

[TJC]

From my perspective, it doesn't matter what the root cause of the problem was, as changing out the driveshaft cured it. So from my perspective, the point is mute. (FWIW, I think there is a little bit of truth in most everyone's theory of what causes the issue... but it can be netted down to poor engineering design decisions by Ford)

The important fact is that there is a fix that works. Nothing is 100%, but for me the issue has been relegated to history. If someone asks me how to fix the shudder, the first thing that I am going to recommend is that they swap our the driveshaft for a one piece design.

I am also convinced that ignoring the shudder leads to transmission issues later down the line. My transmission is much better behaved now. The bucking and hard shifts are gone. I just hope that I did not damage my transmission too much during the 15K miles that I put up with the "shake-n-bake" issues before replacing the driveshaft.

- T

 

[2021Ranger]

My 2021 fx4 lariat has been back to the dealer 3 times for the vibration. They did the TSB shim kit and its better but it is still there and with only 4200 miles on it and still under factory warranty I’m reluctant to replace the shaft with a one piece one and its not the money.
They also told me they could replace the drive shaft as the support is not serviceable. I find that just crazy. Also from what I’m reading it not going to fix the issue. So when that support starts going bad you got to change the whole shaft for a $150 dollar support??

 

[TJC]

My 2021 fx4 lariat has been back to the dealer 3 times for the vibration. They did the TSB shim kit and its better but it is still there and with only 4200 miles on it and still under factory warranty I’m reluctant to replace the shaft with a one piece one and its not the money.
They also told me they could replace the drive shaft as the support is not serviceable. I find that just crazy. Also from what I’m reading it not going to fix the issue. So when that support starts going bad you got to change the whole shaft for a $150 dollar support??

I sympathize, but you are in a "pay me now or pay me later" situation. I waited a month or two after TW announced they had a solid driveshaft for the Ranger, in contemplation. And came to this conclusion:

• Ford isn't going to fix it
• It isn't going away
• It is likely damaging my drive train. What happens when 36K+ miles of abuse later things go south when warranty is out?
• My wife was very unhappy with the truck

Choices?

1. Live with it, take my chances, and be unhappy every time I Start, Stop, and exceed 65mph
2. Alienate my spouse (she was wanting the issue resolved, one way or another)
3. Sell it
4. Fix it

I went with Option 4 and never looked back.

The good news is that Shawn and TW have a solid reputation and guarantee. The only risk you take is that of your time swapping out the DS if it doesn't correct the problem. But I doubt you will need to do that. BTW, the typical Driveshaft measurement is 67". Yours may be a little off one way or the other.

What ever path you take, best of luck to you.

PS: I've got a free nearly new Ford Driveshaft in my garage if you want it... you pay shipping.
- T

 

[Tbalt14]

I thought a shackle lift lowers the axle and leaf away from the body, resulting the in body being raised higher?

Lifting body or lowering axle which ever way you want to look at it increases your angles.

 

[Jason B]

My 2021 fx4 lariat has been back to the dealer 3 times for the vibration. They did the TSB shim kit and its better but it is still there and with only 4200 miles on it and still under factory warranty I’m reluctant to replace the shaft with a one piece one and its not the money.
They also told me they could replace the drive shaft as the support is not serviceable. I find that just crazy. Also from what I’m reading it not going to fix the issue. So when that support starts going bad you got to change the whole shaft for a $150 dollar support??

My guess is that the support bearing is pressed onto the shaft.

 

[navsnipe]

My guess is that the support bearing is pressed onto the shaft.

Time-wise it's much quicker to replace the driveshaft than replace the bearing.

 

[Tremors]

If you guys read through the threads about driveline take-off shudder and vibration you may find trying to achieve the proper angles on your driveshaft will not cure the issue. The problem seems to be more rooted in the soft support material around the driveshaft center bearing (some may call it a carrier bearing). I was one of the people who put a one piece driveshaft on my Ranger and the related problems are gone.

I was able to escalate my truck's issue to get attention by an FSE (field service engineer) luckily via a family member that works for Ford. The FSE reported after working with the local Ford tech that my truck's shudder was mild and was the best it would probably get. The story is much longer but for the sake of keeping brief I summarized. At that point I did my research and got a one piece driveshaft.

I took my truck in to dealer for shutter at take off. They replaced the center carrier bearing with a much sturdier carrier bearing. It helped a little but I definitely still have a shutter at take off. My truck was lifted 2.5 inches so they just blame that. I'll probably get a once piece driveshaft

 

[2021Ranger]

I got some overtime coming up and a TW drive shaft is going to be my next purchase..

 

[CO2Ranger]

Rory (Trail Mater) runs Tom Wood's

You think that man owns a torque wrench? ?

 

[TJC]

Tom Wood's makes a great drive shaft.

 

[landiscarrier]

For anyone that has changed to the one piece TW driveshaft themsleves...can you tell me how difficult of a job this is? Time? I'm pretty mechanical able but at 53 lying on the ground for hours is not ideal! LOL

 

[TJC]

For anyone that has changed to the one piece TW driveshaft themsleves...can you tell me how difficult of a job this is? Time? I'm pretty mechanical able but at 53 lying on the ground for hours is not ideal! LOL

Took me 1 1/2 hours and I am 67. 4 bolts on each end and a spacer. Use Blue LockTight. I did have my bride put the truck in neutral a time or two to allow me to rotate the driveshaft so I had easier access to the bolts. If you can get the back end up in the air (jack stands) a little bit, it will minimize the number of times you have to crawl out from under the truck. Use the emergency brake to keep the driveshaft from rotating when breaking the bolts loose and tightening them up.

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