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Is a 10,000 mile oil change interval ideal for the 2.3L?

dtech

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I'm 5-7.5k miles depending on how much extra time I have during a month to work on the ranger. 10k is likely completely fine - but oil is cheap, I like wrenching on my car, and the piece of mind for my OCD brain is worth it. OEM filter, any advanced full synthetic with SP rating (latest, released in 2020, designed to work "even better" with turbos). Turbochargers are hot and move oil at a very rapid pace. I've owned a lot of turbo cars, and I've never had turbo related issues using the latest full synthetic and high quality filters. Took an 04' Volvo XC70 to 250k miles and SOLD it still running like a top. From what I hear, the guy I sold it to is well over 300k and she's still running strong.
Volvos and Saabs were similar in more than a few ways - the design mileage goal was 300k , the Saabs I owned all had cast iron blocks - the 4 cyl engine was originally a Triumph design and Saab stuck with it for many decades, probably too many it was durable but heavy. I'm doubtful that the newer Volvos will be economical to keep to 250 ~300k - they are pretty complex machines and $$ to repair.
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9zero1790

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use and conditions can be as important as miles for oil. if you use your truck hard change more often. if the truck gets lots of nice calm highway miles change it less often. i do my a bit more often as i live in a heavy traffic area and do a lot of off pavement miles. i would not go to 10k miles. it may be perfectly safe to do so but my ocd will not allow it lol.
 

THLONE

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Ford engineers recommended oil changes also say "or 1 year whichever comes first. " I get mine done every year at about 7000 miles. See how that works? Carry on with this subject:ontheloo:
 

Hellrazor

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Nothing to do with the Ranger but I have a work 2018 Dodge city pro master end it says oil changes are every 10,000 miles I checked the oil at 8000 and it didn’t even read on the dipstick. I drained out 3 1/2 quarts it holds five. I checked it no leaks put the 5 quarts in it it reads full. at 7000 miles later it’s not on the dipstick again and the motor is Chattery changed it 3 1/2 quarts come out. I guess it burnes oil but it don’t smoke. Kinda weird. it’s a work van so I don’t give a shit but if it was mine personally I would get rid of it. I got this van with only 8000 miles on it
 


AvockAdoo

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Volvos and Saabs were similar in more than a few ways - the design mileage goal was 300k , the Saabs I owned all had cast iron blocks - the 4 cyl engine was originally a Triumph design and Saab stuck with it for many decades, probably too many it was durable but heavy. I'm doubtful that the newer Volvos will be economical to keep to 250 ~300k - they are pretty complex machines and $$ to repair.
My 2005 Saab 9-3, 5sp is about the only car that I truly regret selling. Its a shame that GM did them dirty, what an absolute dream that car was to drive - it was much better than my Ranger in snow (both with winter tires). I'm hopeful to own another one someday soon - parts are just now beginning to become hard to find.
 

ntechnic

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There is only one way to know for sure what is happening with your engine oil, test the oil with every change. I have used Blackstone Laboratories and pay a few bucks extra for TBN analysis in addition to basic analysis. I owned an NHRA drag race team for many years and was also the crew chief. When your blown race car engine needs 8 quarts of racing oil (~$160) you want to know for sure whether it needs to be changed daily at the races or can make it a whole weekend you need hard data, not opinion or speculation. And having the history with Blackstone gave me confidence on what shape my engine was in without doing a teardown. For my street cars and trucks, I always send a sample for analysis with every change. Here's what 10+ years of testing my vehicles has shown me:
  1. I only use fully synthetic oil, never blended. Synthetic will still be there for you when are racing or towing/hauling on a scorching summer day with high oil temps.
  2. Changing oil in a brand new vehicle at 5,000 miles from new is perfectly OK. No need for old school 500 mile "break in" change. On more than ten new vehicles I've never seen a 5,000 mile analysis that was anything less than perfectly OK to keep going.
  3. No matter the mileage, always change oil if it's a year old. Oxidation happens over time as well as miles.
  4. If you don't trust your oil monitor you can try gradually increasing beyond 5,000 miles, get the analysis and see if you can go further.
  5. Changing oil needlessly early is not good from so many angles. Waste of a precious resource, creates unnecessary waste to recycle, and of course wastes money. Again, if you were paying thousands of dollars a year in oil costs you would want to save what you can. And the only way to balance cost with benefit (i.e., not blowing up an engine) is with data derived from testing.
  6. Lastly, I've found that the oil monitors on modern vehicles are pretty damn accurate. Once I have a handle on a vehicle with a few analyses of history built up, I've always been comfortable with going until the monitor says 15% life remaining. When I do 15% changes, I've never seen anything in the analysis which told me I pushed the oil too far.
Please note that I am not affiliated with Blackstone in any manner other than as a customer.
 

TICKLE ZOMBIE

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Had an oil change done at 880 miles to full synthetic (OEM Motorcraft filter). Will have it changed at 5000 miles and every 5000 thereafter.

I don’t mind spending a little more on maintenance. I love my truck and want it to go ATLEAST 150,000 if not more.

My vote is 5000 miles or less for oil changes. ??
 
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ccasanova22

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I use Blackstone, see original post. Only have a few hundred miles on the Ranger so haven't taken a sample yet, but why is it that the reports seem to get "better" the longer you drive on the oil? I know the Ford and GM motors are different, but my 1,500 and 3,700 mile runs on the GMC depleted the additives greater than a 5,300 mile run. Also, Blackstone is telling me to exceed the OLM by a good amount on the GMC 6.2L.

Basically - should I go by Blackstone's recommends for this Ranger 2.3L engine? They are telling me to exceed the OLM on the GMC by a good amount, last run had plenty of TBN and additives???
 

Cabose-1

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I do 7500 if towing and hauling. 10000 if all highway. I never go all highway. So my ranger works a little hard. I do 7500 miles.
If it was a lifted tremor f250 with 30 inch rims and a 2 inch tire. Id do 10k miles. Lol
 

Waltztj

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I do mine every 5000 miles or 6 month which ever comes first. Go to the dealer and get the works deal can't beat the price.
 

ctechbob

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5000 Regardless of time on the oil.

These motors have 2 things working against them, both related to the GDI system.

Intake valve deposits and soot loading.

GDI's dump more soot into the oil which can wear on the timing chain system. You want that out of the oil instead of rolling around in there abrading things.

As for intake valve deposits, they're going to happen over time. Keeping the oil in good shape and clean, over the long run, might help reduce it.

Of course, if you only keep your truck to 100k before turning it in for something else, none of this will probably matter. They'll go that long on 10k changes, almost gauranteed.
 

9zero1790

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Nothing to do with the Ranger but I have a work 2018 Dodge city pro master end it says oil changes are every 10,000 miles I checked the oil at 8000 and it didn’t even read on the dipstick. I drained out 3 1/2 quarts it holds five. I checked it no leaks put the 5 quarts in it it reads full. at 7000 miles later it’s not on the dipstick again and the motor is Chattery changed it 3 1/2 quarts come out. I guess it burnes oil but it don’t smoke. Kinda weird. it’s a work van so I don’t give a shit but if it was mine personally I would get rid of it. I got this van with only 8000 miles on it
its burning oil to save on gas :giggle:
 
 








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