2022 Oil Change

[HeavyDuty]

Information is everything - thanks for the forum members who have already been here.
Tools, time, and a place to do it is a plus

After looking over the various clips and info with respect to changing oil in the newer Ranger it does appear to be intimidating at first. But having said that once you get into it - it is no biggie at all.

Here's how it went on my 2022 XLT Ranger 4WD.

First thing I noticed was the 3 10mm bolts (to remove and flap down slpash guard) rather than the phillips head fasteners seen on many clips. These are no problem at all with drill on low torque a with 10mm socket.
once removed, flap down splash guard and you can see filter.

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[HeavyDuty]

Filter from Factory in numbered different but is luckily 76mm 14 flute
(on Left)

 

[HeavyDuty]

Once I established I had the right tool to get the original filter off I removed the skid plate for drain plug access. Loosen 2 front 15mm bolts remove back 2 15mm bolts. Drop back down a a tad and slide toward back of truck.

 

[HeavyDuty]

Once the skid was off I used a 15mm to get drain plug off.
I used a large shallow container to catch oil from plug and a bucket under run off trough from trucks filter catch
And then removed filter with the 76mm 14 flute filter wrench
The oil drain plug has a seal on it so no need to over tighten when replaced.
Same with the oil filter -it's gasket (if seat and gasket are cleaned and prepped with oil) provides a great seal with out having to provide excessive torque

 

[HeavyDuty]

BTW everything was on snug (splash guard bolts, original filter, drain plug, skid plate bolts) but came off with no issues what so ever.
Got to love it.
Here's a pic of the catch and trough that guides run off oil when changing filter.

Notice the spout off the bottom of the filter seat, the catch pan below and the run off trough going to the right

 

[mtsoxfan]

did you still have the 10mm socket whan clean up was done?

 

[HeavyDuty]

I used the Motorcraft 5W-30 Full Synthtetic. I actually ran a quart through after draining the letting sit since this was the first oil change and break-in. Some probably think "nuts" but it was just piece of mind to make sure things were run out.
Everything back together and oil topped off.
Raining here still but luckily I have a nice big garage that let me take care of this and take my time the first time around.
I will be doing all the oil changes - it really isn't a big deal at all.

I know that this old news to many of you but for those considering it for the first time this may be helpful.

 

[quangdog]

The 10 mm bolts rather than the stupid factory plastic fasteners is new... that must be a change for the 2022's. What are everyone's opinions about removing the stupid plastic fasteners, tapping the holes and putting in stainless 10 mm bolts? Would this cause a potential rust issue on the frame where I've tapped?

 

[Grumpaw]

The 10 mm bolts rather than the stupid factory plastic fasteners is new... that must be a change for the 2022's. What are everyone's opinions about removing the stupid plastic fasteners, tapping the holes and putting in stainless 10 mm bolts? Would this cause a potential rust issue on the frame where I've tapped?

Wouldn't waste my time to tap....plastic rivets are cheap...Amazon...buy em by the dozen. Got a drawer full of assorted.
Have changed my Ranger's oil 3 times so far...still using the factory rivets.

 

[HeavyDuty]

The 10 mm bolts rather than the stupid factory plastic fasteners is new... that must be a change for the 2022's. What are everyone's opinions about removing the stupid plastic fasteners, tapping the holes and putting in stainless 10 mm bolts? Would this cause a potential rust issue on the frame where I've tapped?

I think you could tap, clean things up well and use an artist brush with respective paint and coat surrounding metal. On the threads you could use removable thread lock...
But all that may be a bit of an overkill and just deal with what you have - depending on the fastening or lack of fastening you are getting now.
I know those plastic fasteners can wear and need replacing

 

[quangdog]

Wouldn't waste my time to tap....plastic rivets are cheap...Amazon...buy em by the dozen. Got a drawer full of assorted.
Have changed my Ranger's oil 3 times so far...still using the factory rivets.

I change it every 5k miles, coming up on my 6th oil change at 30k miles, and still using the factory plastic clips. I hate how fiddly they are, and that they require 2 hands to remove: one to gently pry up the rear flange of the fastener with a panel removal tool, the other to unscrew the "screw" center part. If I don't apply gentle pressure from behind with the panel removal tool, the screw just spins and does not bite enough to actually come out. Plastic fasteners work fine, they're just a pain in the butt.

Would rather have something as fast and reliable and simple as a 10mm bolt with wide flange on the head.

I think you could tap, clean things up well and use an artist brush with respective paint and coat surrounding metal. On the threads you could use removable thread lock...
But all that may be a bit of an overkill and just deal with what you have - depending on the fastening or lack of fastening you are getting now.
I know those plastic fasteners can wear and need replacing

Yeah, I'm pondering just swapping the plastic with bolts. It is likely overkill, but farting around with the stupid plastic fasteners is literally the hardest part of an oil change for me. I have a fumoto drain valve installed, so the drain process is super simple and I don't have to remove my skid plate. My oil catch pan is wide enough to catch the filter channel drip. I don't have to even lift the truck or turn the front wheels... I can reach everything / get my body under the truck with it just parked in my garage - I literally spend the largest proportion of my total oil change time fighting with the stupid plastic clips.

I'm not a huge fan of drilling holes into things that will probably rust, though.. so I'm a little torn on swapping the plastic fasteners with bolts. I know others on this forum have come up with interesting solutions involving magnets, wizardry, dark magic, and the like....

 

[HeavyDuty]

I totally get it. I hate those plastic fasteners...
Those and grip snap clips that seem to never want to go back on with out a bit of manipulation and bending.

 

[Radioman]

Although I have serviced my Ranger before, this is a nice write-up for those that are planning to do it themselves for the first time. Thanks Kevin. I am jealous of those bolts however...

 

[TICKLE ZOMBIE]

I have the 10mm bolts. Noticed them the other day and was going to post a question about it.
Glad to know I’m not the only one who has it.

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Great post. I’ve changed my oil twice now on my 22 Tremor. I installed the Valvomax oil drain on the first change. Worked great for the second. No mess whatsoever and can skip removing the skid plate. And by the way, your truck is WAY to clean underneath ?

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