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What did you do to your Ranger today?

Mastodon

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True North looked so good after the clay bar and a coat of Meguiar’s Detail Spray, it got me thinking about how great it would look with a fresh coat of paint. I KNOW, RIGHT!?

Brandon, @dondonbabyraptor , you should really pay attention here.

So, I did just that…

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Dave @AzScorpion turned me on to this, so I knew it was a tried and true method. First, you need a few supplies. Cheap brush, paint tray, and a wiz roller - tray liner and drop cloth are optional but Dave recommends them for some reason. So, yeah, I used them too.

Use the brush for the initial application - back and forth, up and down criss-cross, it doesn’t matter at this point. Do the entire truck at once, none of this one or two panels at a time crap - it’s a time suck, and you’ll want to get out and show off your handiwork before dark.

For a showroom like finish (this is the most important step), apply the second coat with the wiz roller - don’t be afraid to use LOTS of paint and don’t worry about roller overlap marks - they’ll hardly be visible. Use long strokes with the roller from bumper to windshield, windshield to rear brake light, front headlight to taillight - you get the idea.

Most importantly, don’t use automotive paint - it’s a complete rip-off. Dave swears by Behr Direct to Metal Alkyd, so that’s what I used. Be sure to use DTM Primer as well. Maybe $80 all-in for all the supplies and paint. PPG can suck it.

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I’ll post pics later, it’s still a bit tacky to the touch.

Good luck Brandon!
People laugh, but with the a decent amount of prep work, some mineral spirits to thin the paint down, and some wet sanding between coats, a roller job can look halfway decent.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?

I actually did this method on a 1970 Mustang In my younger, poorer days. It helped that I had to rebuild the front passenger side corner and couldn't afford an actual paint job. Sure, I might have had all the patience of a 20-year-old and rushed/skipped some steps, but from more than 5 feet away it didn’t look half bad, especially since I did it in a parking lot! At least, it looked better than the hodgepodge of rust and unfinished parts that it was before...

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And for the record: this was Rustoleum enamel, in Royal Blue.
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DukeCanBuildit

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People laugh, but with the a decent amount of prep work, some mineral spirits to thin the paint down, and some wet sanding between coats, a roller job can look halfway decent.

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?

I actually did this method on a 1970 Mustang In my younger, poorer days. It helped that I had to rebuild the front passenger side corner and couldn't afford an actual paint job. Sure, I might have had all the patience of a 20-year-old and rushed/skipped some steps, but from more than 5 feet away it didn’t look half bad, especially since I did it in a parking lot! At least, it looked better than the hodgepodge of rust and unfinished parts that it was before...

4328333475.jpg
4328353475.jpg

11976728475.jpg
101_0017.JPG
101_0034.JPG


101_0028.JPG

101_0037.JPG
101_0040.JPG

101_0042.JPG


And for the record: this was Rustoleum enamel, in Royal Blue.
Patience is always your friend - I’ve seen worse jobs with rattle cans. If it worked for you and you were happy with it, that’s all that matters. ?

Brandon (@dondonbabyraptor), are you paying attention? You need new decals that say “Roush Rolled”.
 

dondonbabyraptor

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Patience is always your friend - I’ve seen worse jobs with rattle cans. If it worked for you and you were happy with it, that’s all that matters. ?

Brandon (@dondonbabyraptor), are you paying attention? You need new decals that say “Roush Rolled”.
:LOL: :idea:
 


AndyMedic

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Just got home from tinting my windshield to cut down on how hot the cab gets. Ceramic 70% tint with ~90% UV protection. Will be a welcome change.
Any problems with your windshield and halo effects? Wondering if there was an install error or problem with the film on my truck. I had zero issues with my last truck and no issues in any other vehicle with windshield tint
 

Joyride

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Any problems with your windshield and halo effects? Wondering if there was an install error or problem with the film on my truck. I had zero issues with my last truck and no issues in any other vehicle with windshield tint
No issues on mine. Likely culprit could be the choice of film the installer used.
 

dondonbabyraptor

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Had a surprise drizzle early morning around 3am, pollen spotted up all over the truck. Forced my hand to wash it. All back to a shine, please don’t surprise me with more drizzle. Took only an hour since it has 303 graphene on it.
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FoD

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The "Slaga" so far:

Finally got it in place and started to do the walk back to reattach all that needs to be reattached.

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Prior episode was where I could not get the unit in (because I was cheating and thinking I could bypass some things - like disconnect bottom support brackets, facia removal...) and found the 7mm bolt behind the wheel lip molding that needed to come out...and of course, I didn't have a 7mm flat wrench, just 6 and 8. :explode:

Got it, undid them, took out inner support brace bolts, ready to peel it off...maybe :idea: but, didn't have to...removing the bolts from support provides enough give to slip in (these are the 5 bolts that in each of the support brackets.

Undoing the bottom intercooler supports brackets, found a factory T-30 pan head (typical find...tight space, oblique angle, can only reach from below, you know usual holdup to anything you're doing :like:) with a stripped torx. So, there is no way I can get in there to pound a slot or larger torx in; can't grab it with a bolt remover (the Irwin type that you hammer onto the head); no channel locks. Fortunately, my Krell like brain solves the issue, take a metal hack saw blade and remove the head (especially since there is a washer between head and bracket). Only took 6 hours and no, don't have a shop air sawzall. :crazy:

Anyway, that was yesterday afternoon. Today, wrangled back in and start re-hooking items. Grabbing a sandwich and then I'll go hook up the in/out air lines for intercooler - did hook up the quick disconnect to radiator while I was looking at stuff...one less item to do :)

I suspect that I will be filling radiator and "burping" it tomorrow.

The story "Slaga's" on! :whew:
 

SVTPaul

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The "Slaga" so far:

Finally got it in place and started to do the walk back to reattach all that needs to be reattached.

IMG_1753.jpg


Prior episode was where I could not get the unit in (because I was cheating and thinking I could bypass some things - like disconnect bottom support brackets, facia removal...) and found the 7mm bolt behind the wheel lip molding that needed to come out...and of course, I didn't have a 7mm flat wrench, just 6 and 8. :explode:

Got it, undid them, took out inner support brace bolts, ready to peel it off...maybe :idea: but, didn't have to...removing the bolts from support provides enough give to slip in (these are the 5 bolts that in each of the support brackets.

Undoing the bottom intercooler supports brackets, found a factory T-30 pan head (typical find...tight space, oblique angle, can only reach from below, you know usual holdup to anything you're doing :like:) with a stripped torx. So, there is no way I can get in there to pound a slot or larger torx in; can't grab it with a bolt remover (the Irwin type that you hammer onto the head); no channel locks. Fortunately, my Krell like brain solves the issue, take a metal hack saw blade and remove the head (especially since there is a washer between head and bracket). Only took 6 hours and no, don't have a shop air sawzall. :crazy:

Anyway, that was yesterday afternoon. Today, wrangled back in and start re-hooking items. Grabbing a sandwich and then I'll go hook up the in/out air lines for intercooler - did hook up the quick disconnect to radiator while I was looking at stuff...one less item to do :)

I suspect that I will be filling radiator and "burping" it tomorrow.

The story "Slaga's" on! :whew:
Now that sounds like just a wonderful time lol. You must be glad to see the light at the end of that tunnel.
 

SVTPaul

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Leer HF650M bed cover installed. Instructions could definitely be better but appears to be a really nice product. Also finished up the swap to exterior LED's wherever there weren't any...Diode Dynamics front turn signals, mirror signals, plate ID lights, amazon puddle lights. I find it odd how the lariat has a mixture of incandescent bulbs amongst all the LED lighting. Also added Ford Performance plate frame, tailgate damper (not sure why this gets so much hate, I love it especially with young kids around) and topped this round off with a tribute to Ranger5G on the back window.

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Joyride

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Had a surprise drizzle early morning around 3am, pollen spotted up all over the truck. Forced my hand to wash it. All back to a shine, please don’t surprise me with more drizzle. Took only an hour since it has 303 graphene on it.
DABAFDDF-619A-4358-9BD5-7788905F5622.jpeg
Was surprised too! I looked at the forecast and no indication of rain but suppose we can always use it, even it that means more humidity.
 

Joyride

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Stock tune backed up and Livernois performance tune installed. Haven't romped on the accelerator yet but I'm more interested in getting some mpg's back after adding the level and 22's. Right now sitting at 19.7 mpg and hoping to get at least 22. We shall see. I'll give her a run once I drive the truck around for a week or so for the computer to adapt to my typical driving.

On a side note. Cooked some pizza's in my new outdoor Oonie pizza oven and it's really cool!

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FoD

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Now that sounds like just a wonderful time lol. You must be glad to see the light at the end of that tunnel.
And...the O-ring on the MAP sensor is too thick for the unit to fit snug against the intercooler housing. Went over to ACE and picked up a thinner version and fits nicely and I can "feel" Oring snugging in. Sent question to Mishimoto describing the issue and what I replaced OEM Oring with and asked if it would be an issue - rather find out before I restart engine than afterwards LOL!!:crazy:
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