TSB 20-2277 2019-2020 Ranger - Shudder/Vibration When Accelerating From A Stop

[navsnipe]

I am not sure I understand what you are saying.

They put the wheels themselves on the machine to check for balance and any run out. Then the tires were mounted onto the wheels and balanced. Then they did the road force balancing. All turned out well. How would you find a bad wheel/rim otherwise?

The vibration hasn't changed one bit through 3 sets of tires.

I remember one person posted the lug nut holes were mis-drilled on a wheel causing an out of round situation that a wheel balancer will not detect since it is using the center hole on the wheel to mount to the machine. I don't remember if the issue was aftermarket or stock wheel.

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[Jrel209]

Man.... this is my first Ford and i'm kind of displeased with their service dept already, also didnt have the best exp w/ their sales depts in most dealers I went too. Only positive exp were the two dealers almost 50miles away hah.

In any case, i've called the two nearest dealers to me to address my shudder/vibration on take-off and the cold-start issue (issues are starting to pile on), and both told me to go to where I purchased the vehicle........ Is this something new lol?

 

[ChiefQM]

Every single time I have taken my vehicle in for service, I have been asked that. With the issues I have had, you think they would know by now where I bought the damn thing!! I got the same question from the dealer I went to for a second opinion. I hadn't noticed that taking it back to the dealer I bought it from did me any favors.

 

[Jrel209]

Every single time I have taken my vehicle in for service, I have been asked that. With the issues I have had, you think they would know by now where I bought the damn thing!! I got the same question from the dealer I went to for a second opinion. I hadn't noticed that taking it back to the dealer I bought it from did me any favors.

Interesting, so maybe it is something new. I dont purchase vehicles often, so was kind of confused why they were asking that and responding w/ "take it back there," like why should it matter where i purchased it....yall FORD right?

 

[Rp930]

Man.... this is my first Ford and i'm kind of displeased with their service dept already, also didnt have the best exp w/ their sales depts in most dealers I went too. Only positive exp were the two dealers almost 50miles away hah.

In any case, i've called the two nearest dealers to me to address my shudder/vibration on take-off and the cold-start issue (issues are starting to pile on), and both told me to go to where I purchased the vehicle........ Is this something new lol?

Nothing new. They just don’t want to be bothered with a problem.

Problem cars are a problem for everybody. Inevitably it always ends up a loser for the technician and the shop. And if you think the tech gets paid for every minute he spends on it you have not been a dealer tech. He could be flat rating another car, making more than 100% of his time or working on a problem car making straight time or less.

 

[ChiefQM]

Nothing new. They just don’t want to be bothered with a problem.

Problem cars are a problem for everybody. Inevitably it always ends up a loser for the technician and the shop. And if you think the tech gets paid for every minute he spends on it you have not been a dealer tech. He could be flat rating another car, making more than 100% of his time or working on a problem car making straight time or less.

In a moment of unguarded honesty, the shop foreman at the dealer where I bought it told me that he didn't want to pay his techs the warranty rate to diagnose issues that Ford swears are "operating as designed". He also told me that my issue was the "worst he had ever experienced". That was right before he told me that even though my truck didn't need it, they would do the TSB to add shims. Yep, they did it, shoved some shims in to shut me up, but not in accordance with the TSB. I give up until the truck breaks and they have to fix it or I find out through this forum what the proper repair should be.

 

[BlueXLT]

I had the TSB done yesterday, it fixed probably 75% of the problem. I've got the luxury of having another ranger accessible to me (my dad owns one) to compare to.

His doesn't have the shudder at low speed like mine was experiencing. His is a Lariat 2WD, and mine is a XLT FX2. I believe the remaining contributing factor in the shuddering is the suspension on my truck, it's harsher than my dad's lariat. Washboard type surfaces my truck feels like it's going to skip off the road. I am not sure how to prove it without swapping out suspension pieces though.

 

[MIBuckeye]

My new Tremor is having this done tomorrow...not a happy camper about this. It is so annoyingly pronounced at all speed ranges...particularly 0-20 45-50 and 85-up....cannot believe that driveline balance is still a problem these days...you'd have thought we moved beyond this on a $50K vehicle....

 

[jamo147]

I have a 2020 XLT Sport and have had the start up shudder right from the beginning. Originally they told me it was normal so I let it slide but it annoys me. I’ve been reading through all these posts and especially appreciate the insight that Phil Schilke provides. I too am an engineer but not in automotive industry so the logical perspective makes a lot of sense. The interesting thing is that my experiences mirror those of others. Initially the shudder got worse as the fuel tank emptied. It completely disappeared if I loaded the bed with ~500 lbs. interestingly I left 500 lbs in the bed for 1 week and it must have permanently deformed the leaf springs to some extent. Because when I unloaded the truck, the shudder came back but not as bad and was no longer sensitive to fuel levels. I brought my truck into the dealer and asked them to lower the back 1.5” since that fixed the issue. They are doing the TSB again (I guess they can’t just lower the rear)… they say there is an update. I am hoping the pinion angle adjustment will effectively do what the suspension lowering did. Either way I know there is a fix, just gotta get them to do it.

 

[20lariat4x4]

Update:

Measured all my operating angles.

From front to rear-
Transmission flange angles down at -3.3.
Front drive shaft angles down at -9.2.
Rear drive shaft angles down at -6.5.
Rear pinion flange angles down at -5.0.

This provides 3 operating angles where these parts join.

-5.9 transmission to front drive shaft.
+2.7 front shaft to rear shaft.
+1.5 rear shaft to rear pinion.

Rules from the manual (section 205-01 (Driveshaft Angle Measurement) for driveline angles:

“6. NOTE:
l The U-joint operating angle is the angle formed by 2 yokes connected by a cross and bearing
kit. Ideally, the operating angles on each connection of the driveshaft must:

1. be equal or within one degree of each other.
2. have a 3 degree maximum operating angle.
3. have at least one-half of one degree continuous operating angle.

7. If the angle is not within specifications, repair or adjust to obtain the correct angle. Inspect the engine mounts, transmission mounts, center support bearing mounting, rear suspension, rear axle, rear axle mounting or the frame for wear or damage”

According to these rules (as well as speed limits on U-joint angles factoring in max driveshaft RPM from Dana Spicer) my operating angles are all off.

These angles are with the 18mm of center bearing drop and 0.5 degree shims to tilt the rear pinion flange down. I want to tilt the transmission down to shrink the 5.9 operating angle. Tilting the transmission down will also decrease the angle of my front shaft, in turn decreasing my center (2.7) operating angle- hopefully enough to be within 1 degree of the rear operating angle of 1.5.


How do the negative vs positive operating angles affect balance? Was everything within these specs before the bearing drop or pinion shim? Time for some trigonometry…
And by trigonometry I mean whiskey.

 

[Rangerguy]

Update:

Measured all my operating angles.

From front to rear-
Transmission flange angles down at -3.3.
Front drive shaft angles down at -9.2.
Rear drive shaft angles down at -6.5.
Rear pinion flange angles down at -5.0.

This provides 3 operating angles where these parts join.

-5.9 transmission to front drive shaft.
+2.7 front shaft to rear shaft.
+1.5 rear shaft to rear pinion.

Rules from the manual (section 205-01 (Driveshaft Angle Measurement) for driveline angles:

“6. NOTE:
l The U-joint operating angle is the angle formed by 2 yokes connected by a cross and bearing
kit. Ideally, the operating angles on each connection of the driveshaft must:

1. be equal or within one degree of each other.
2. have a 3 degree maximum operating angle.
3. have at least one-half of one degree continuous operating angle.

7. If the angle is not within specifications, repair or adjust to obtain the correct angle. Inspect the engine mounts, transmission mounts, center support bearing mounting, rear suspension, rear axle, rear axle mounting or the frame for wear or damage”

According to these rules (as well as speed limits on U-joint angles factoring in max driveshaft RPM from Dana Spicer) my operating angles are all off.

These angles are with the 18mm of center bearing drop and 0.5 degree shims to tilt the rear pinion flange down. I want to tilt the transmission down to shrink the 5.9 operating angle. Tilting the transmission down will also decrease the angle of my front shaft, in turn decreasing my center (2.7) operating angle- hopefully enough to be within 1 degree of the rear operating angle of 1.5.


How do the negative vs positive operating angles affect balance? Was everything within these specs before the bearing drop or pinion shim? Time for some trigonometry…
And by trigonometry I mean whiskey.

No wonder they vibrate -- so many angles. After all the work, mine has gone from distressing, to maybe I can live with it, to I'm quite happy with it. Seems within "normal" for a vehicle now.

 

[20lariat4x4]

No wonder they vibrate -- so many angles

Yeah, seems like a good job for an engineer… oh wait…

 

[20lariat4x4]

I just re-measured angles and got operating angles of 4.8, 2.8, and 0.9. If those are accurate, shimming the front motor mounts to tilt the trans back just one degree might effect both the front and middle angles enough to get everything within 1 degree. So the final measurements would be ~2.9, ~1.9, and the rear ~0.9 would remain unaffected by the tilt.

Maybe one day I’ll care/get bored enough to try it.

 

[Ranger Fanatic11]

Man.... this is my first Ford and i'm kind of displeased with their service dept already, also didnt have the best exp w/ their sales depts in most dealers I went too. Only positive exp were the two dealers almost 50miles away hah.

In any case, i've called the two nearest dealers to me to address my shudder/vibration on take-off and the cold-start issue (issues are starting to pile on), and both told me to go to where I purchased the vehicle........ Is this something new lol?

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have the shudder issue on takeoff on my 2021 Ranger XLT, only 1100 miles now. Would love to find the fix.Other than that issue I love the truck!

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have the shudder issue on takeoff on my 2021 Ranger XLT, only 1100 miles now. Would love to find the fix.Other than that issue I love the truck!

Hi Chris,

My only recommendation is to have the Dealer perform the TSB measurement and install shims if it is determined the driveline is not in spec.

Folks have shimmed the center bearing on their own and some had success. This is a likely symptom of a two piece driveline.

Wish I could be of more help but it seems the problem is two fold, Start Up Shudder and a more continuous vibration which could be related to driveline and/or tire balance. The dealer has diagnostic ability via some NVH measurement tools that they can apply to the vehicle diagnostics. Let the dealer try to determine what is what...many folks have the TSB performed and it results in no help as they have another problem..

Just because you have a vibration does not mean this TSB applies which is the pitfall of many owners, particularly after suspension Mods.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

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